Products needed to cut, shorten, & splice a bumper cover

It's made for use in pretty thick applications in fillets, I haven't experienced any shrinkage etc... I would be sure to cover it with a few coats of spi epoxy. You'll see when you use some, it cures more like a hard plastic and in thick sections it's very hard to break.
 
I'm afraid I agree with crash, looks like it doesn't belong on that car, way too much work. JLC may be able to use it :cool:
 
It's not easy to tell from here, but unless the car is just hopelessly messed up, that bumper is junk. Would not use.
I don't much have a choice. I've had it 2 years, and in sure I won't get a return now.

Does anyone else have experience with the adtech? It's relatively obscure it seems. Does evercoat or USC have a comparable product?
 
Given that it’s a fiberglass bumper I guess you should just get cutting and sectioning it with fiberglass mat and resin. Adtech can be used for filler but you’re going to need mat and resin also.

That piece really is a piece of junk and you’re going to have many many hours into repairing it. I would look for a nice original and cut your losses.

Don
 
A review of the "sunk cost fallacy" could possibly be helpful.
Crashtech, I get it. I understand. It's going to be a ton of work. However, I do not want to use an endura bumper because it flexes and cracks. I want the ever so slight weight reduction associated with fiberglass. I have replaced both quarters, the tail panel, the deck lid, the trunk, the inner deck filler, and all the trunk gutters and made customer tubular rear frame rails. I had to modify the tail panel to get the taillights to fit with the quarter right. It could be that things aren't located correctly by ~.25". I braced, measured, and worked the installation of these pieces around the car from PS to DS. All these pieces were not simultaneously cut out. A factory located piece was left in place to maintain datums. The new piece was put on on and located off it, then the next piece was cut out as I worked around the car. Dimensions were compared to a junk donor car I have (the one set as my DP).

Regardless of whether stuff moved or I have a junk bumper cover, I'm here and have to use it. Everything is welded in and Endura is out because I don't want the paint to crack and look like crap in 10 years. I know, this is where everyone comes out of the woodwork with their stories on how they redid an endura bumper in 1992 and it still looks brand new, but I personally know people who have not had that experience. I want something that will last for sure.
 
So the bumper you have is the only brand of fiberglass bumper for that car? I haven't checked, but that seems implausible.
 
SPI epoxy is the key to a crack free endura bumper. It’s well documented on this and the performance years site.

Don
 
So the bumper you have is the only brand of fiberglass bumper for that car? I haven't checked, but that seems implausible.
Ok, you're suggesting I try another bumper cover manufacture. My mistake. I'll look around. I see Eckler's has one. I'm contacting stinger, but they have warnings all over about needing to modify to fit. Im not holding my breath with them.

SPI epoxy is the key to a crack free endura bumper. It’s well documented on this and the performance years site.

Don
I know. I've seen the stories online and I've seen the components in real life. Sorry. Just not something I can be sold on.
 
I am glad this thread was started. I am working on a 77 bird and I am looking to replace the front and back bumpers with fiberglass pieces.

What brand is this one?
 
I am glad this thread was started. I am working on a 77 bird and I am looking to replace the front and back bumpers with fiberglass pieces.

What brand is this one?
This is a stinger fiberglass cover. I was told these are the best. They're probably okay too. I've just replaced lots of components on the rear. I think this might be why the license plate cut out is a little off. The sides extending past the quarter panels was even an issue on the car body before I cut the factory metal off, so you can be sure that their width of the cover was always off quite a bit.
 
This is the image that told me this bumper is a no-go:


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Whatever you did, I'm pretty sure you didn't take over an inch off the bottom of your quarter panel. That is going to be a pretty hard thing to make look right. I guess it comes down to how you value your time.
 
Hmm, unless that bumper was intended to be part of a body kit that included a lower quarter extension...
 
Hmm, unless that bumper was intended to be part of a body kit that included a lower quarter extension...
No. The adjustments I had to make for the tail light hole locations were a quarter inch or less. They were actually slightly down too. Nowhere along the way have I seen an inch discrepancy. Is that even possible? Nothing would even clamp together for well being that far out. Anyway, this is supposed to be an OEM replica. This picture is a bit deceiving. I think I mentioned somewhere along the way that I can push this some and make it line up. It is such a push that you hear the fiberglass creaking and giving though. I would not want to do a final install like that. It needs cut and relieved. Obviously this pushing the edge in and up does not address the discrepancy in the radii. The radii in the quarter panels are tight while the outer radii on the bumper cover are too wide.

Someone above mentioned that these areas that need built up should not be done with AdTech. They should be done with traditional buildup of glass layers. Is that correct?
 
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