I don't much have a choice. I've had it 2 years, and in sure I won't get a return now.It's not easy to tell from here, but unless the car is just hopelessly messed up, that bumper is junk. Would not use.
Crashtech, I get it. I understand. It's going to be a ton of work. However, I do not want to use an endura bumper because it flexes and cracks. I want the ever so slight weight reduction associated with fiberglass. I have replaced both quarters, the tail panel, the deck lid, the trunk, the inner deck filler, and all the trunk gutters and made customer tubular rear frame rails. I had to modify the tail panel to get the taillights to fit with the quarter right. It could be that things aren't located correctly by ~.25". I braced, measured, and worked the installation of these pieces around the car from PS to DS. All these pieces were not simultaneously cut out. A factory located piece was left in place to maintain datums. The new piece was put on on and located off it, then the next piece was cut out as I worked around the car. Dimensions were compared to a junk donor car I have (the one set as my DP).A review of the "sunk cost fallacy" could possibly be helpful.
Ok, you're suggesting I try another bumper cover manufacture. My mistake. I'll look around. I see Eckler's has one. I'm contacting stinger, but they have warnings all over about needing to modify to fit. Im not holding my breath with them.So the bumper you have is the only brand of fiberglass bumper for that car? I haven't checked, but that seems implausible.
I know. I've seen the stories online and I've seen the components in real life. Sorry. Just not something I can be sold on.SPI epoxy is the key to a crack free endura bumper. It’s well documented on this and the performance years site.
Don
This is a stinger fiberglass cover. I was told these are the best. They're probably okay too. I've just replaced lots of components on the rear. I think this might be why the license plate cut out is a little off. The sides extending past the quarter panels was even an issue on the car body before I cut the factory metal off, so you can be sure that their width of the cover was always off quite a bit.I am glad this thread was started. I am working on a 77 bird and I am looking to replace the front and back bumpers with fiberglass pieces.
What brand is this one?
No. The adjustments I had to make for the tail light hole locations were a quarter inch or less. They were actually slightly down too. Nowhere along the way have I seen an inch discrepancy. Is that even possible? Nothing would even clamp together for well being that far out. Anyway, this is supposed to be an OEM replica. This picture is a bit deceiving. I think I mentioned somewhere along the way that I can push this some and make it line up. It is such a push that you hear the fiberglass creaking and giving though. I would not want to do a final install like that. It needs cut and relieved. Obviously this pushing the edge in and up does not address the discrepancy in the radii. The radii in the quarter panels are tight while the outer radii on the bumper cover are too wide.Hmm, unless that bumper was intended to be part of a body kit that included a lower quarter extension...
Cool! Thanks for sharing. Do u happen to have a fairly up close rear view? I've been using an example from DSE's projects page, but the more views the better on stuff like this.Here’s an original for comparison
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