Pre Painting Prep

Machspeed

Member
I've been watching a lot of videos lately and just watched a video from Kevin Tetz on panel blocking. Of course you know he's an Eastwood rep. Anyway, he soaked a door with Eastwood's Pre Painting Prep to aid in evaluation of his blocking. I see the logic in it and it preps the surface for paint. What would be the like product from SPI for this? They have the 700 and the 710.

Need to get a nice bottle to spray the stuff in too! That US Chemical pump spoken of on here so highly is a pricy little sucker.

Thanks,

John
 
Personally I find guide coat (3m powder) to be the best indicator for block sanding a panel. I use it in the dry sanding and wet sanding stages.

When final prepping before top coating, I will spray 710 (my choice) on the panel and then immediately wipe it off with a clean shop towel. If you look at the panel while it is still wet and flashing, you will be able to verify it's condition.

When doing cut and buff of clear coat the 710 works great to reveal leftover scratches as well.
 
Harbor Freight has a sprayer, not sure how it would be effected by the 710 or 700 but I bought 2 and will see. not bad for 5.99
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I've been watching a lot of videos lately and just watched a video from Kevin Tetz on panel blocking. Of course you know he's an Eastwood rep. Anyway, he soaked a door with Eastwood's Pre Painting Prep to aid in evaluation of his blocking. I see the logic in it and it preps the surface for paint. What would be the like product from SPI for this? They have the 700 and the 710.

Need to get a nice bottle to spray the stuff in too! That US Chemical pump spoken of on here so highly is a pricy little sucker.

Thanks,

John

I struggled with cheap sprayer, yes it is expensive but boy it is worth every penny in my opinion. I also just use epoxy and its shine as my blocking aid.
 
+1 for water like Jim said. I've heard of folks using solvent based W&G removers to check something but I can tell you I have never seen a pro do it. Drawbacks are you spray it on the panel, it's got to settle for a bit before it'll reflect true. By that time, it's evaporating so you got put more on. If you want to use that method, water is the best choice. Spray it on wait 30 seconds and then sight the panel.

I also swear by guide coat both the charcoal powder and white acrylic spray paint (over dark primers ). That, and being extremely anal about blocking a panel evenly. Cross hatching, starting at one end working to the other, reversing and working back. Never sand one area more than the surrounding area to remove a defect when blocking. Cross hatching is sanding 45 degrees (draw an imaginary horizontal line) one direction then 45 degrees the other direction. Only on my final wet sand or if I'm color sanding do I not cross hatch.

Your hand is also your best friend when getting something straight. Close your eyes, rub your entire hand back and forth on the panel. You should be able to feel even the slightest of low spots, high spots, waves etc. Work on developing the feel in your hand and understanding what your hand is telling you. One of the most important parts of doing successful bodywork.
 
@Chris, I just did a black Dodge dually and used black primer. I have some Mirka white guide coat powder and it works as well as the black does over gray. That truck came off of a ranch and was used to haul hay. Damn near killed me, but it is now the slickest hay hauler around:) SPI epoxy, Turbo primer, SPI black base, euro clear
 
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That, and being extremely anal about blocking a panel evenly. Cross hatching, starting at one end working to the other, reversing and working back. Never sand one area more than the surrounding area to remove a defect when blocking
These 2 things are the key to getting a panel really straight. It is only natural to want to stay in one area to remove a defect, but it only makes a larger area low.
 
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