Practice Paint?

K

Klleetrucking

Promoted Users
Might sound like a dumb question but what might I use for "practice paint" to simulate SPI single stage?
I desperately need to sharpen/develop my spraying skills.
I'd like to find a cheaper alternative to the real deal until I can improve my skills.
Thanks, K. Lee
 
Just to add, for practice, a hood would be a good choice as would a door and fender together. Set them up as they would be on a car, so you are spraying on a vertical surface with those, and a horizontal surface with the hood. In addition to production clear (best choice) if you can spray SPI epoxy slick with no cratering that would be a good indicator that your ready to attempt the SS.

If you let us know what gun you are using, someone here can give you some settings to get you in the ballpark.
 
I should've added more information but I didn't want my post to get too wordy.

I'm using an Iwata Bellaria, 78*F, 1.4 tip, 28/32 psi at the gun, 80%fan, fluid ?. SPI SS Black 4-1-1 (over SPI black epoxy).
I sprayed the firewall, cowl and air cleaner top last week. On the parts that were horizontal/flat the paint laid out really nice and smooth (for me).
I guess gravity was helping. The vertical areas not so much, reasonably smooth but with orange peel.
The atomization just doesn't seem to be right at least to my untrained eye.


My thoughts were to use Rustoleum or some lower cost paint to play with.
BUT, will the consistency be close enough to mimic SPI SS to give me a better feel for spraying?

FWIW, the car is a GM A body (Cutlass). I can post a few pics but I'm not sure my cellphone camera would pick up the orange peel.

Thanks, everyone.
 
I forgot to add I've adjusted the gun per the guidelines in the manual.

Don, I reduced the SS in an attempt to thin it down. When I sprayed it on the masking paper it just seemed to come out "grainy" for lack of a better description. Maybe I'm wrong but the atomization seems thick. I guess I'm trying to get it to spray like a rattle can does.

Now I'll add something else that'll make everyone roll their eyes, lol.
On the handle of the gun where the air connection is there's an adjustment knob that appears to control the amount of air entering the gun.
Sadly, I've never adjusted it. I've adjusted the air at the connection with a gauge. Does my atomization problem sound like not enough air coming into the gun?

Thanks for helping.
 
Ya I would open that wide open....

I’ve read mixed reviews on that gun. Iwata LPH400 with a 1.4 tip rocks SPI single stage in my experience.

If you need to thin the SS a couple of capfuls of retarder works well.

Don
 
Thanks again.
Here's a couple pics.
IMG_20210411_144314330.jpg
 

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Klleetrucking said:
fluid ?
Click to expand...
What is this adjustment at? Count your turns to closed and see what you have. A good baseline is 2.5 to 3.0 turns out from closed.

Make sure to keep track of your settings to help fine tune what works for you in your situation and write stuff down, either on paper or your phone. If using a phone make sure its backed up to the cloud if you happen to change phones.

Also like Don suggests open the air valve on the gun all the way open. Always adjust air pressure with a quality diaphragm regulator.
 
dhutton01 said:
Are you waiting 30 minutes between coats and not longer?
Click to expand...
I waited 15 minutes between coats, I hope that was long enough.

I'm sure it's frustrating for you guys to try to analyze my problems without actually being here and I sincerely appreciate the help.
It'll be awhile before anymore SS because I've got more stripping to do to get more metal ready.
Thanks again
 
No filters or screens in the gun or cup.

Here's a what if, the air valve (the adjustment by the air inlet) was partially closed limiting the air inbound to the trigger?
The gauge on the air line (at the gun) showed 28/32 psi with the trigger pulled as stated in post #4.
Could the air be at 28/32 psi to the air valve and then be restricted at that point causing what I think is poor atomization?
What I'm also baffled with is how the horizontal surfaces came out smooth and the vertical surfaces are orange peel city.
Sorry for the dumb questions.

Rather than start a new thread I'd like to ask another question.
Today, I had the shop doors open and the sunlight hit the flat surface of the firewall just right.
To sum it up the large flat area looks like crap. Outside of stripping it down and starting over (Lord forbid) what might one do to salvage it?
Okay, take me to the woodshed.
 
Klleetrucking said:
No filters or screens in the gun or cup.

Here's a what if, the air valve (the adjustment by the air inlet) was partially closed limiting the air inbound to the trigger?
The gauge on the air line (at the gun) showed 28/32 psi with the trigger pulled as stated in post #4.
Could the air be at 28/32 psi to the air valve and then be restricted at that point causing what I think is poor atomization?
What I'm also baffled with is how the horizontal surfaces came out smooth and the vertical surfaces are orange peel city.
Sorry for the dumb questions.

Rather than start a new thread I'd like to ask another question.
Today, I had the shop doors open and the sunlight hit the flat surface of the firewall just right.
To sum it up the large flat area looks like crap. Outside of stripping it down and starting over (Lord forbid) what might one do to salvage it?
Okay, take me to the woodshed.
Click to expand...
Yes you were most likely choking your gun. Open that valve as suggested earlier.

Just sand out the texture with 600-800 and respray. No need to strip it imho.

Don
 
In the area with all the curves and bends would Scotchbrite be okay?
It's my understanding green is equivalent to 600 grit and maroon is 360?
 
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