PPG Cre High Build Epoxy Primer

B

bubjel

Just wondering what you guys think of this primer Quick View, as a substitute instead of polyester primer. My ppg rep showed me an example and I was impressed. He states that it sands a little harder, but the advantages are with it. Its also priced comparably to that of polyester primer.
 
never listen to a ppg rep .
and for the record i have no problem getting good build with spi epoxy .
 
shine;8531 said:
never listen to a ppg rep .
and for the record i have no problem getting good build with spi epoxy .

I have often thought Barry should develop this epoxy high build process that YOU came up with and add it to his epoxy marketing...I think PPG stole your idea and YOU may have changed the world of prep with this idea in the years to come...The idea is solid...a few procedural safeguards taught in to it, and it could change everything...PPG, man up and give shine some idea money
 
I always used Valspar vp50 high build epoxy primer until they quit making it. That is how I found SPI as I was looking for an epoxy that had color selection but wasn't PPG lead free crap that replaced the good DP40 in the mid 90's. I only use Spi Epoxy now and I have had excellent results using it as a build primer. You'd be surprised how many mils 3 wet coats will give you. In fact, I was doing a spot job yesterday and broke out the turbo 2k primer that I had around forever. Nice stuff but I just don't get that safe feeling that I get with all epoxy. I'm not knocking the Turbo, best 2k primer I've ever used, but I like knowing 1 product is used throughout the job.

Is the PPG cre a hybrid epoxy like hok or 5 star has?
 
Sorry once again still don't know why I can't get the link to work
 
I've tried the CRE high build and I know of others that have tried it also, high build for sure but not comparable to polyester. It gets hard and it needs some heavy texture for adequate adhesion or apply it over a good quality automotive epoxy, I think it was military approved but mainly an industrial primer. I know of one shop that was using it regularly for resto work but quit when they were having chipping problems. Do some adhesion and chip testing for yourself and report back-just make sure any testing is done after you know full cure is reached-like 30 days. A quality high build epoxy would be a godsend.
 
With what bob said, that would explain why it is non-automotive, as never seen a bulldozer doing 70 miles an hour on I-75 unless on back of truck.

I had reported a year or so ago that I was testing to see about making my epoxy a higher build and even stuffing with different Nano fillers, it weakened it.

Would two different epoxies work for SPI, yes but I can see it now someone uses the weaker version on a $500,000 restro and spi will take the blame, no way, not for me.
 
there is no reason to change the epoxy. change your technique instead. i do only one coat at a time and would guess i get 10-12 mill . i block it with 100 grit to start. anything finer will not cut it flat. after 1 or 2 coats i can back off a little and move up the scale of paper. epoxy block.jpg

epoxy 1.jpg
 
The thing needed here is the right procedure, and the right car to expend the time on to use this procedure correctly....conventional procedures and materials are STILL excellent and should be used on most work...this procedure is just another excellent choice among excellent choices, and really only works with spi epoxy...ever tried to block someone elses epoxy???pretty much sucks
 
Barryk;8595 said:
With what bob said, that would explain why it is non-automotive, as never seen a bulldozer doing 70 miles an hour on I-75 unless on back of truck.

I had reported a year or so ago that I was testing to see about making my epoxy a higher build and even stuffing with different Nano fillers, it weakened it.


Would two different epoxies work for SPI, yes but I can see it now someone uses the weaker version on a $500,000 restro and spi will take the blame, no way, not for me.

Ah come on Barry, you could put it on a marketing shelf next to the SPI-pho and the SPI-15, look at the market you could tap into ROFLOL!
 
Years ago several companies had hybrid primers. Half epoxy, half urethane. RM had one called PolyUroxy or something like that. Restorer's Choice had Sumo Usagi (I never got the name either) I used Sumo a few times but not enough to give an opinion one way or another. Would something like that be feasible with today's technology Barry? Imagine a urethane primer with epoxy tendencies - LOL!
 
That was my main concern to my rep. About the epoxy being so hard would it be more prone to chipping. But yet, polyester primer is also very hard & can be brittle. Also; poly contains alot of talc. But I have not seen any chipping issues with poly when sandwiched in between spi epoxy than topcoated with universal.
 
Senile Old Fart;8612 said:
Ah come on Barry, you could put it on a marketing shelf next to the SPI-pho and the SPI-15, look at the market you could tap into ROFLOL!

Lmao!
 
RodMan;8614 said:
Years ago several companies had hybrid primers. Half epoxy, half urethane. RM had one called PolyUroxy or something like that. Restorer's Choice had Sumo Usagi (I never got the name either) I used Sumo a few times but not enough to give an opinion one way or another. Would something like that be feasible with today's technology Barry? Imagine a urethane primer with epoxy tendencies - LOL!

That was Randy pretending he was from Japan. "sumo" Fat thick, I'm sure is what he meant.

There is a reason, these did not take hold as time will kill a weak product, no matter how good the marketing ploy is.
 
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