Polyester Primer

I figured you might find a spot that could benefit from some urethane caulk. I didn't mention a brand because some of the products I have access to at my day job are sold at commercial building industry supply places. Commercial caulks are far different now than home crap most are used to seeing. One we recently started using, Dymonic 100 is similar to windshield urethane in strength. I have used actual windshield urethane caulk for similar use before. You may get this much cheaper from a glass shop than the 20 something bucks I've seen it at in auto parts stores. Anything I've ever used seemed way better than the cheap crap factories used years ago.
You just want some flexibility along with strength. Not sure what products the auto paint stores may have, I've always used what I have available if possible. You could even use the orange fire retardant spray foams to stiffen between braces & metal, trim back after a few hours & run a seam over it. I have the professional guns for the large cans, which are controllable & tightening the flow knob will keep unused portion good for months.

Sanding hoods flat, or to the proper curvatures should I say, is one of the most difficult areas in some cases to bodywork to perfection. If you can easily get some more support from the inner structure, it will save you some grief, particularly on a large hood without many defined body lines.
By the way, what hood are you working on? More details as to what you're working on can improve what answers you get on a forum. Sometimes the best answer you get may not be exactly what you asked for.
I’m working on a Jeep Wrangler that I cut in half to make a truck. I’ll post some pics.
 

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Home built bed.
 

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Cab/truck
 

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What is going to look like.
 

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I moved the lights from the fenders to the grill.
 

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Yes, this needs a twin gun like used for any automotive twin tube automix product. Years ago I saw them costing around 100 bucks or something stupid. Got one a few years ago for I think under 40 bucks. An investment if you want to glue any metal together with panel adhesive epoxies.

Otherwise, some type of urethane caulk in a 10 oz tube will fit a standard home caulk gun.
That's not what I'd call a big hood, but center looks pretty damn flat. Bad for staying straight unsupported.
 
Yes, this needs a twin gun like used for any automotive twin tube automix product. Years ago I saw them costing around 100 bucks or something stupid. Got one a few years ago for I think under 40 bucks. An investment if you want to glue any metal together with panel adhesive epoxies.

Otherwise, some type of urethane caulk in a 10 oz tube will fit a standard home caulk gun.
That's not what I'd call a big hood, but center looks pretty damn flat. Bad for staying straight unsupported.
Yeah, it’s not real big but it does pop in and out when I put pressure on it. Only towards the front where the gap under the support is. Thanks for the info on the produc
 
That's about the same gun & price I got local from a finishmaster chain store. They also got their line of intermix application products that seem just as good as the 3-m.
Cool project by the way.
 
Sanded down to metal, 2 coats of SPI epoxy, 3 coats of slick sand block sanded, and now 2 coats of SPI 2k high build.
 

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Not yet. I had the center of the hood setting on the saw horses while I was sanding. This way I could apply a little more pressure while sanding. I’m going to put something between the hood and support, I just haven’t yet.
 
In that case, just be careful that sitting unsupported later doesn't give you a different outcome in or after the blocking process.
If you needed something quick & cheap to grab & use, a little light gradual application of the orange fire retardant foam from the 1 use cans should get things to a more stable point . Excess can be trimmed with a kitchen serrated knife & scraped off when dry.
 
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