Peeling clearcoat on excursion fender?

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ukiltmybrutha

Promoted Users
I spent a while sourcing/prepping/painting/finishing a door for the Excursion and it came out nice. However one of the consequences of sitting out in the sun was that the top of the fender is peeling. I just paid to have the painted on (below the clear) pinstripes to be repainted by a specialist.

Anyone know if there are any hacks or remedies to re-clear just the effected area and what with?

The rest of the vehicle is in pretty decent shape for it's age.

Thanks!
 

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The problem you have is that the clear coat protects the base coat from the sun's destructive rays. Once the clear coat has failed and begins to peel, the base coat is also compromised.
So when the guy did the pinstripes, did he not mention the peeling clear to you?
Generally, a true professional would have re-cleared the whole panel and brought those areas to your attention so they could've been dealt with.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
The problem you have is that the clear coat protects the base coat from the sun's destructive rays. Once the clear coat has failed and begins to peel, the base coat is also compromised.
So when the guy did the pinstripes, did he not mention the peeling clear to you?
Generally, a true professional would have re-cleared the whole panel and brought those areas to your attention so they could've been dealt with.
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Thanks.

I hired him exclusively for the purpose of doing the pinstripes. The other door on the opposite side of the vehicle needed pinstripes after I primed/painted/cleared/ it and while he was there I asked him to do the pinstripes knowing about this failing clearcoat area. He might have mentioned it but I was on a budget so it wouldn't have mattered at the time. I figured that since the failure happened so recently I could do a quick scuff and 1k rattle can on that area.

If I have to pull the sprayer back out then so be it but I am a minimalist just looking to buy some time if possible.
 
A HACK is mix up a little clear and dab it in ,you can break the discolored pieces off.Again just a hack youll still see it ,short of that if you sand it no doubt youll put scratches in the base underneath.Now your painting and re clearing.
 
Tungsten said:
A HACK is mix up a little clear and dab it in ,you can break the discolored pieces off.Again just a hack youll still see it ,short of that if you sand it no doubt youll put scratches in the base underneath.Now your painting and re clearing.
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Thanks. Could I sand it a little with like 800 and go up to 1k and polish instead of breaking it then dab?
 
ukiltmybrutha said:
Thanks. Could I sand it a little with like 800 and go up to 1k and polish instead of breaking it then dab?
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You would sand ,polish after several coats A small touch up brush would be useful. Problem with dabbing clear is it runs. So several light dabs might help. Again just a hack. The flakes make it hard. Hopefully they break off clean.
 
Tungsten said:
You would sand ,polish after several coats A small touch up brush would be useful. Problem with dabbing clear is it runs. So several light dabs might help. Again just a hack. The flakes make it hard. Hopefully they break off clean.
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Why not sand polish prior to dabbing?

Thanks for the running warning!
 
ukiltmybrutha said:
Why not sand polish prior to dabbing?

Thanks for the running warning!
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Ok I think I get it. Need some additional surface. If you sand before application then you can burn right through the clear which I have just done a tiny bit of. If you sand afterwards you have the surface to even things out.

I was able to push the air out of some of the edges. Will try to seal using cc afterwards as an experiment.

I know what needs to be done here to do it properly I just don't want to do it yet.
 
No, you really should flick that loose clear off. Don't try to glue it down with clear, that will just be a mess. Don't mess with the basecoat underneath at all, aside from cleaning it with solvent-base wax and grease remover. Then dab several coats of clear onto the the areas where the clear is missing. Let it dry for a while between coats. The goal is to build the clear up to the surrounding intact area. Then, if you want more, you can gently color sand and buff the spots you dabbed in, but it's tough not to go through the adjacent clear when trying this.

I've actually done this, but only as a prelude to sanding and blending a fender adjacent to a door replacement, for example. What you want to do is far more difficult to make look good.
 
crashtech said:
No, you really should flick that loose clear off. Don't try to glue it down with clear, that will just be a mess. Don't mess with the basecoat underneath at all, aside from cleaning it with solvent-base wax and grease remover. Then dab several coats of clear onto the the areas where the clear is missing. Let it dry for a while between coats. The goal is to build the clear up to the surrounding intact area. Then, if you want more, you can gently color sand and buff the spots you dabbed in, but it's tough not to go through the adjacent clear when trying this.

I've actually done this, but only as a prelude to sanding and blending a fender adjacent to a door replacement, for example. What you want to do is far more difficult to make look good.
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Thanks, I was thinking of using it to "glue" or tack it from the fender line in addition to doing the rest. I went back and started removing as much as I could with my fingernail. It's amazing how quickly that pierces right through the basecoat if not careful.
 
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