I have a new set of wheels for my 66 Mustang fastback track/street project that I want semigloss black. They just came out of the box. I have a quote of $85-100/wheel to get powder coated. I already have SPI black epoxy and some semigloss black paint sitting on the shelf. Durability wise, I'm sure the powder coating would be a little better, but not sure if it is worth the money, since I already have materials to paint. What kind of prep should be done to the aluminum wheels (polished hoop and cast center) to get them ready for primer and paint...if I go that route.
Painting wheels vs Powder coating?
- Thread starter jlwdvm
- Start date
anotheridiot
Member
85-100 per wheel should handle sandblasting to bare metal. There are two different types of powder, thermoset and thermocure. Thermocure will soften again and allow another coat to adhere, Thermoset will not soften and it will stay hard and have bad adhesion. Since most of these are made and painted in china now, it really all needs to come off.
If you are looking at keeping the machined areas glossy, you need to polish them after coating. Trying to mask and clear will end up making that look silver when the rim gets up to 400.
If you are looking at keeping the machined areas glossy, you need to polish them after coating. Trying to mask and clear will end up making that look silver when the rim gets up to 400.
I looked at making powder coat about 8 to 10 years ago, basically
It's epoxy but what I learned was the quality is all over the board
From crap to excellent, just like epoxy itself. I had no idea before looking into it
Wheels scuff up clean and one full coat of epoxy.
If bare aluminum, hand sand first with 180.
The trick is to keep layers to a minimum.
It's epoxy but what I learned was the quality is all over the board
From crap to excellent, just like epoxy itself. I had no idea before looking into it
Wheels scuff up clean and one full coat of epoxy.
If bare aluminum, hand sand first with 180.
The trick is to keep layers to a minimum.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Just me but painting those rims semi gloss black would ruin them IMO. They look pretty rad as they are now. 
This is the method I would do with the epoxy primer I use, I have never used SPI Epoxy. To prep them just scuff all the areas you want painted with red scotch brite pad until there aren't any shiny bits, clean them (prep all, wax/grease remover, soap/water) make sure all the solvents are evaporated and prime and paint. I'm guessing the semi-gloss paint is a single stage where a clear coat isn't required.
(Edit: Here's the TDS https://9bebbfda-9708-47ec-91b7-e2b...d/9190b4_491ea7d99ca44d6bb1b96d3eec14de12.pdf )
May call the tech line and ask them about surface prep.
IMO PC wouldn't be worth the money. I'm not a big fan or PC for wheel applications, one if you curb a wheel it will need stripped and redone ($$$) and two, if/when you get rock chips or any chip, they will be deep and ugly. Painted wheels if anything happens, grind, sand, scuff, respray and done.
Also OEM Wheels are painted, not powder coated.
The center looks like it is rough and the polished is obviously smooth, this (obviously) will be the same when painted. So you will have a smooth lip and edge with a semi rough center, but in black.
I know this is obvious but not sure if you were wanting/expecting the entire wheel to be uniform.
(Edit: Here's the TDS https://9bebbfda-9708-47ec-91b7-e2b...d/9190b4_491ea7d99ca44d6bb1b96d3eec14de12.pdf )
May call the tech line and ask them about surface prep.
IMO PC wouldn't be worth the money. I'm not a big fan or PC for wheel applications, one if you curb a wheel it will need stripped and redone ($$$) and two, if/when you get rock chips or any chip, they will be deep and ugly. Painted wheels if anything happens, grind, sand, scuff, respray and done.
Also OEM Wheels are painted, not powder coated.
The center looks like it is rough and the polished is obviously smooth, this (obviously) will be the same when painted. So you will have a smooth lip and edge with a semi rough center, but in black.
I know this is obvious but not sure if you were wanting/expecting the entire wheel to be uniform.
Last edited:
jsm1947
Promoted Users
There are advantages to both.
Powder is harder/thicker and resists chips better. However, if an on-the-spot repair is needed, it can be a pain in the rear unless the powder is of good quality and the job was done correctly. As others mentioned, if the powder is crappy, it will gum up when sanding on a spot job. Also, custom colors are iffy since powder clear easily yellows. Blacks are usually easy and come out great and less prone to fisheyes/dirt etc. Matte finishes are great as well and come out very uniform. Powder also builds nicely and would make your surfaces more uniform.
BC/CC is great for custom colors, as clear is usually pristine in clarity. I don't have the greatest luck with shooting matte clear...it usually gives me problems and is difficult to match unless you keep the formula (4 to 1, 6 to 1) or do multiple spray-outs. BC/CC is easily repairable, but not as chip-resistant, especially on wheels that are very close to pebbles, etc. CC seems to handle high gloss as far as glossiness better than gloss powder.
I have shot SPI epoxy in black and it dries to a semi-gloss. I wouldn't personally feel comfy leaving the wheels without a topcoat even though I have shot a set of wheels in black epoxy and left that way for a customer. But as mentioned, scuff, clean very well and shoot.
John
Powder is harder/thicker and resists chips better. However, if an on-the-spot repair is needed, it can be a pain in the rear unless the powder is of good quality and the job was done correctly. As others mentioned, if the powder is crappy, it will gum up when sanding on a spot job. Also, custom colors are iffy since powder clear easily yellows. Blacks are usually easy and come out great and less prone to fisheyes/dirt etc. Matte finishes are great as well and come out very uniform. Powder also builds nicely and would make your surfaces more uniform.
BC/CC is great for custom colors, as clear is usually pristine in clarity. I don't have the greatest luck with shooting matte clear...it usually gives me problems and is difficult to match unless you keep the formula (4 to 1, 6 to 1) or do multiple spray-outs. BC/CC is easily repairable, but not as chip-resistant, especially on wheels that are very close to pebbles, etc. CC seems to handle high gloss as far as glossiness better than gloss powder.
I have shot SPI epoxy in black and it dries to a semi-gloss. I wouldn't personally feel comfy leaving the wheels without a topcoat even though I have shot a set of wheels in black epoxy and left that way for a customer. But as mentioned, scuff, clean very well and shoot.
John
