painting dash

John McGraw

Promoted Users
I have a new urethane dash for my Nova that I am going to re-color. The material sinks, so I was not planning on any adhesion promoter. I usually use lacquer for my interiors just because it dries quick and is easy to mix to the level of sheen that is desired. The plan is to shoot epoxy followed by several coats of flattened lacquer. This is the first time I have ever painted one of these new, urethane dash pads, and wanted to assure that I was thinking right.

Regards, John McGraw
 
John, that will work, but why not just get a quart of interior paint from sem and skip the epoxy? Of course, you could add flex and thin the lacquer and make your own interior paint and ship the epoxy.
The lacquer is very brittle.
 
Barry, I did not know whether there was any adhesion advantage of priming with Epoxy first. I was planning on using flex additive with the lacquer. but I may just have my local PPG jobber mix me up some matching interior paint. I had already painted all hard surfaces in the interior with my leather match lacquer, and was just trying to avoid a color mis-match. I really like it when the dash pad just seems to flow into the dash without any sheen or color change. If there is no advantage of priming the pad, then I will not waste my time.


Regards, John McGraw
 
I use the SEM flexible interior paints National Parts Depot sells, they're custom matched for the car's interior color code and I must say their match is dead on. It is lacquer and comes in a rattle can, but it holds up very well. My 67 Mustang's interior has had it the longest (I painted it almost 7 years ago) and it still looks like the day I painted it. Before painting I scuff with red scotch brite and scuff stuff, then WGR, adhesion promoter, then spray light coats. I've been painting the interior pieces to my 78 LTDII interior this winter, thanks to Barry's recommendation of an infrared paint curing light I can do it in the shop where it's 15 degrees. That lacquer has some serious VOC.
 
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