Paint, reducer , epoxy, activator - how old is too old?

EDP

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HI all - been a long time since I've been on here, used to have the same username but I think it got wiped somehow.

I want to do some touchup on my 2014 RAM with a Prairie Pearl Coat color, and Ive got a lot of older reducer and misc sitting on the shelf.

SPI white epoxy 6600, SPI 870-1 medium reducer dat3ed , get this 4/2010 !!

Crossfire CR231 fast reducer & others...

Also have some Universal Clear 4000-4 & 4003 Activator - old , worth the risk of using?

called the local paint store they're selling Axalta Chromabase , apparently a 1-1 ratio of base to reducer, wondering if a can risk using such old reducers or bite the bullet and buy new?

Any online paint like the old Prospray or something recommended? SPI isn't selling matches like this is it?

I've used the SPI epoxy thats sat on the shelf for a long time with no failure's , activators discolored something fierce but sticks like hell!!
got a tiny bit of white left that'd work .

thought I'd collect opinions.

thanks all!

Evan
 
I'm in the same boat with you. Been out for10-12 years too,had to register But,still have a ton of products left and semi retired now with Time.
You want to talk about O-L-D,I have It.
Some of mine goes back to 2006. Epoxy,Universal Clear,Turbo Primer,Activators,Reducers,Base,SS,IC,Flattening additive,etc.Most around when SPI opened it's new Building but some from Baker.
It's always a gamble but as long as it's not going to come back on you,use it. I have and so far,Everything has done great.
The epoxy which is from 2006-2010 has done fine.I even took some Black that was basically goo in the can,thinned it with reducer,activated it,and it still kicked.Sanded 'as usual' and have no issues.
MY Universal clear was a bit cloudy from the can I opened like 12 years ago,actually was stuck to my paint locker shelf from some that leaked out of the bottom, and the Activator was was still sealed with the clear tape used back then and looked like I got it Yesterday. Mixed and turned basically clear in color,10% Reduced then sprayed as usual. Reacted exactly as It always did and was touchable next day. Set in the Sun a couple days and it is fine. The Activator was opened about 6-7 months ago and about a month back,was more gelatinous than liquid,like the flattening additive is,but saw no difference in the results. I've had Activator,Crossfire,that has 'seeded' on me but the Universal has nothing of the like.Just 'thicker' than normal.
I've used some of the Base's with excellent coverage and the SPI Red is still hell to clean out of my guns btw,LOL...
The Inter Coat is basically like the Universal,little thicker but spray's great. You can always add a bit more Reducer if your concerned which I generally do anyway especially with airbrush work.
I am amazed myself at how well the products lasted and perform Today after a LONG time.
Mind you that MY products have been stored in a Controlled Environment of between 60-80 degrees all this time
I'll continue using them on 'friends and other non paying projects,uhh like riding mowers and Kitchen Aide mixers ;) But if $$$ is involved,I'll at least get New Activators. I have some Black SS I'm painting my '97 Ram with and unless I see different when I open the cans,I'm using it.
I have a lot of Chromabase,Nason,Crossfire,etc bases of all sorts and the Only 1 gave me trouble are the Whites. They all seeded badly,titanium if I remember correctly. Useless.
Your 'results may vary but I have a fairly high confidence they will perform fine.
Hi Everybody !!
Mike K.
 
My concern is activators if been opened but, like said above, still sealed from Baker, wow a long time ago! It should be fine.
If the activator has been opened, then not worth the risk.
Any questions, feel free to call me as this is a tough one.

The bottom line is I've used an open activator at home. I found it in the basement setting over eight years and acceptable but seen turbo activator go bad in two weeks if less than half full.
 
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Here's an old post I did on using 7 year old UV and Activator.
 
Activators will tell you by turning yellow. Putting yellow activator in clear is not a good idea. Reducers are a different story though, but if you are buying 200.00 worth of touch up paint for your truck I would not chance the reducer. If it does not work as lighter fluid, it probably wont cut paint.
 
Thanks all - its such a tiny repair on the bumper cover I may gamble and spot it in with the airbrush which was my plan , if I wasn't so lazy I'd pull the bumper cover and repaint the whole thing when I replace the ft bumper.

Any of you guys ever pulled a 2014 RAM 1500 ft bumper - involved or simple?
 
cool, thanks! I watched a You tube video of a removal , not like my old school 74 F250 - lol, simple & obvious. It did look like the top cover had to come off anyways so who knows maybe Ill repaint & clear it anyways if its off...

gotta love youtube - somebodys always done it, even if its the wrong way
 
I spend a lot of time on the tech line correcting proper procedures with newer painters who studied tube.
So know who you are watching.

Sad to say 2nd most time spent is correcting what paint reps tell
shops
Like yesterday with a Chicago shop, the reps today are nothing like they were 20 years ago that knew what they were doing, and we're ex-painters.
 
Not surprising, you tube's rife with bad technique, method, advice - lots of the "wrong way to do it" advise but it takes a bit of experience to see the difference. but often I'll find something of value that helps get me where I need to go.

The video's can be entertaining as to how bad they are , fortunately there's usually a way to tell its not the best method. You've spent time on the tech line with me & I always appreciated how willing your were to dispense solid advice - most appreciated!
 
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