Paint gun adjusting.

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
I've had a rash of calls the last the last three or so months from people trying to learn and
Watching UTube.
Here is how some say adjust your gun.

Pull the trigger all the way open and turn in the fluid adjustment in until you feel the trigger start to move.

Why? A full trigger is a full trigger, great for low solid clears as don't matter.
Why doesn't the paint gun manufacturer leave the adjustments off and save 100 dollars off the cost of the gun?

Just a thought!
 
Why would a low solids need a wide open setting? Seems like the higher solids would need more flow.
 
I too have seen this method. I think the authors believe you will just change out tip sizes for differing needs.

All kinds of ways to do this. I suppose some talented folks can get great results with a pump up garden sprayer and even a paint brush.

I thought the write up in the SPI Tech Manual on how to adjust your gun was great (much thanks!) and worked for me and at least, I think, stacked the odds in my favor which I certainly needed, LOL's!
 
Yeah unfortunately there’s so many variables. Fluid flow, air pressure, distance & speed, nozzle size, temps, humidity, etc. A good painter can usually spray most products with almost any gun by adapting. But quality tools and products make it less of a struggle.
 
Hey @Barry, question…I’ve always noticed some guys on the old internet drop down to a 1.2 for spraying “high solids” clear. Where as you recommend a 1.4? I know this also depends on the gun such as say a sata 5000. They’re about a size bigger than they’re listed as. But I’ve noticed this with many guns. Claiming it “breaks up the clear” better. I always went with a 1.4…I can turn in the fluid a hair or up the pressure if needed. Thoughts?
 
To adjust the gun you have to know where wide open is. Every gun is different. I adjust mine with that method and turn in if needed. My Dv1 only has maybe 2.5 turns, ls400 has around 6, sata around 4. I usually use my guns wide open unless tip size is too big. I also put the cheater valve wide open and use the wall regulator for gun pressure
 
Hey @Barry, question…I’ve always noticed some guys on the old internet drop down to a 1.2 for spraying “high solids” clear. Where as you recommend a 1.4? I know this also depends on the gun such as say a sata 5000. They’re about a size bigger than they’re listed as. But I’ve noticed this with many guns. Claiming it “breaks up the clear” better. I always went with a 1.4…I can turn in the fluid a hair or up the pressure if needed. Thoughts?
What it does is give you a smaller fan. If someone is not used to spraying with a Sata this makes it perform more like a slower gun. It doesn't atomize it any better that is a myth. The atomization comes from the holes around the nozzle opening not the opening itself. A 1.3 or 1.4 Sata 5000 RP doesn't need more atomization. The nozzles are each balanced for the specific size. You get the same atomization whether you are using a 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 etc.
If you are using the 1.4 turn the fluid back. Try 1-1 1/4 turns out (from fully in). 75% overlap. Pressure around 30 at the gun to start. You may want more or less but 30 at the gun is a good place to start. The 1.4 5000 RP is a hoser so controlling the fluid will give you better results.
 
Why? A full trigger is a full trigger, great for low solid clears as don't matter.
Why doesn't the paint gun manufacturer leave the adjustments off and save 100 dollars off the cost of the gun?

Just a thought!
Good point! LOL
For years I used a 1.7 and adjusted, a 1.5 and adjusted. The Sata 5000 1.3 is north of 1.5 (by my somewhat crude method of measure), never use it wide open. Chris the 1.4 wide open must be a "super soaker". I use similar settings: about 29 at the gun and approximately 1-1/4 out from from closed up.
 
Pull the trigger all the way open and turn in the fluid adjustment in until you feel the trigger start to move.
I plead guilty!
This method works just fine as long as you are using the tip size recommend for spraying the product.

I usually turn the fluid knob in until I feel it contact the trigger. Then I release the trigger and turn the fluid knob in 1/2 turn. I do this mainly to keep the trigger from bottoming out each time I pull it open.

The fan size and air pressure I adjust on paper to achieve a consistent droplet size and full coverage.

That's my story and I'm sticking to it. LOL
 
What it does is give you a smaller fan. If someone is not used to spraying with a Sata this makes it perform more like a slower gun. It doesn't atomize it any better that is a myth. The atomization comes from the holes around the nozzle opening not the opening itself. A 1.3 or 1.4 Sata 5000 RP doesn't need more atomization. The nozzles are each balanced for the specific size. You get the same atomization whether you are using a 1.2, 1.3, 1.4 etc.
If you are using the 1.4 turn the fluid back. Try 1-1 1/4 turns out (from fully in). 75% overlap. Pressure around 30 at the gun to start. You may want more or less but 30 at the gun is a good place to start. The 1.4 5000 RP is a hoser so controlling the fluid will give you better results.
I’m not currently spraying with my 5000. And the one I have is a 1.3. I guess what I was asking was more of a general statement/question. And with many different brands not just satas. Guys recommending 1.2’s for “high solid” clears. Never made sense to me. I always went with a larger nozzle.
 
Guys recommending 1.2’s for “high solid” clears.
Like Barry said, there's no standard for what high solids means.
 
What Barry describes is actually how my paint instructor taught me as well. When I read the SPI paint gun adjustment it was a difficult concept for me to go in all the way on the fluid and then start backing out.

I know several painters that paint like this.

I don’t do it anymore because since I’ve stopped doing it I’ve eliminated runs.
 
All that adjustment does is to spray it wide open. That was relevant when everyone was using siphon guns and spraying lacquer. That ended 35+ years ago. Times and materials have changed.
Which is what I would assume the paint manufacturer had in mind when their TDS recommends a certain TIP SIZE.
Why recommend a 1.4 tip if you really want them to reduce it down to spray like a 1.2 tip???

Runs, at least in my limited experience, usually come from excessive amounts being applied by operator error. Getting too close to the panel, hesitating in one area, overlapping into an already sprayed area or not allowing adequate flash time between coats.
 
Which is what I would assume the paint manufacturer had in mind when their TDS recommends a certain TIP SIZE.
Why recommend a 1.4 tip if you really want them to reduce it down to spray like a 1.2 tip???

Runs, at least in my limited experience, usually come from excessive amounts being applied by operator error. Getting too close to the panel, hesitating in one area, overlapping into an already sprayed area or not allowing adequate flash time between coats.
Lol, that's a fact, I can adjust a 1.4 down to a 1.2 but cannot adjust a 1.2 to a 1.3.
So in a perfect pant gun company world you would buy a $1000 + or - gun and then buy three different nozzle sets for $400 a piece.
 
Standox recommendations for their clear (46% solids).
Screenshot_20230220-093115.png
 
I dont paint for a living. But Ive always sprayed wide open. Took a 2 day certification class through ppg way back when and the instructor told us wide open fluid. "Thats how guns are designed to be sprayed". Ive been doing it ever since. I generally run the fan wide open as well. And let my only adjustment be the inlet air pressure.
 
Those who can do it, those who cant teach sales classes.
Did not look at the video as they mupleaseese paint company to get guns in the training school.
That is why the bs is to adjust the gun at the wall.
Sorry, should not have even posted this thread so have a riot.
 
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