Overspray removal??

O

OJ86

Promoted Users
While shooting the outside of a car the enginebay got some overspray on the 2 week old paint. Besides rubbing, are there any other products I could use to remove it? There are some tight areas and my buffer can quite get at.
 
One time I was spraying outside and I had my motorcycle in the garage, but I forgot to close the door. Long story short, I used one of those clay bars to get the overspray off. I have no idea if this will help you, but it might be worth a try.
 
keep in mind if you use a paper towel or rough rag the reducer will soften the surface a little and will scuff up. it may or may not be cured enough but i do it all the time.
 
clay bar works best. no solvents to soften new paint or chance it to wrinkle.. works like a champ.. im the overspray king! lol
 
i use claybar and/or a little extra cut compound on a rag.....regular compound doesn't seem to work as good with the rag over the extra cut. i've used reducer also if the paint is cured enough..but have to run back over it a little with some polish as it will haze the finish somewhat.
 
if your going to cut in a car you can put a good coat of canuba wax on the paint. will stop the overspray from sticking. one reason i never cit in , more trouble than it's worth.
 
After doing my first touch up on a fender and only masking around 6 feet around...what a regret!!
My glass smooth finish turned into a nice sandpaper finish on half of the car! 2 bucks of plastic would have saved hours of work.
Anyway, after reading solutions I figured I would buff with my wool pad since I had a few scratches that I wanted to remove anyway. While this method does work, it takes really long and usually more than one or two rounds.
I guess no time like the present to try clay bar. Well, this worked like magic! Ended up doing the entire car in about an hour and a half... smooth as glass once again!!
 
Craigbro63 said:
After doing my first touch up on a fender and only masking around 6 feet around...what a regret!!
My glass smooth finish turned into a nice sandpaper finish on half of the car! 2 bucks of plastic would have saved hours of work.
Anyway, after reading solutions I figured I would buff with my wool pad since I had a few scratches that I wanted to remove anyway. While this method does work, it takes really long and usually more than one or two rounds.
I guess no time like the present to try clay bar. Well, this worked like magic! Ended up doing the entire car in about an hour and a half... smooth as glass once again!!
Click to expand...
I learned this the hard way. If you aren't in a booth gotta mask alot more. I do paper first then plastic and overspray still finds its way sometimes. Partly because I don't know what I'm doing. For chrome plating #0000 steel wool works and doesn't scratch. Gotta be 0000, not 000
 
RosharonRooster said:
I learned this the hard way. If you aren't in a booth gotta mask alot more. I do paper first then plastic and overspray still finds its way sometimes. Partly because I don't know what I'm doing. For chrome plating #0000 steel wool works and doesn't scratch. Gotta be 0000, not 000
Click to expand...
Hard lesson but it was my first time so water under the bridge.
Actually the clay bar worked on the trim as well, stainless, chrome...
 
RosharonRooster said:
I learned this the hard way. If you aren't in a booth gotta mask alot more. I do paper first then plastic and overspray still finds its way sometimes. Partly because I don't know what I'm doing. For chrome plating #0000 steel wool works and doesn't scratch. Gotta be 0000, not 000
Click to expand...
0000 steel wool also works well on glass to remove hard water spots.
 
Better off using bronze wool, especially on chrome. Steel wool will rust if any of it gets into pits or tight areas.
 
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