Out of 700-1 wax & grease remover-need to spray epoxy primer tomorrow

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auraaura

Thought I had some 700-1 left. I don't. What's the best substitute that I can get on a Saturday at the parts store? Or should I just wait? I really, really need to start painting tomorrow.....
 
I don't think there is a substitute for that, especially if you are cleaning bare metal. Anything else and you could just use PPG DX330 which is a solvent base cleaner like SPI 710.
 
I noticed that SPI recommends using waterborne W&G remover, then solvent based W&G before using the epoxy. I'm guessing the solvent based being used second is to ensure evaporation of the waterborne cleaner? My question is, what is the purpose/advantage of using the waterborne, if using the solvent based doesn't cause any problems?

Thanks
Kelly
 
I believe the recommendation is 710 first, then 700. 700 is not very good a removing adhesives and some petroleum products, but it is great for silicone and just about anything else. My understanding that you take care of the really nasty stuff first with 710, and 700 catches what the 710 missed. You can see the difference on your rag. After 1 or 2 times over with 710, and your rag looks clean, then try a different clean rag and 700. A lot of times you will get more dirt.
 
In a pinch I would use some 92% isopropyl alcohol (walmart) mixed with some acetone. This would give you a clean, petroleum free surface.
 
strum456;29145 said:
I believe the recommendation is 710 first, then 700. 700 is not very good a removing adhesives and some petroleum products, but it is great for silicone and just about anything else. My understanding that you take care of the really nasty stuff first with 710, and 700 catches what the 710 missed. You can see the difference on your rag. After 1 or 2 times over with 710, and your rag looks clean, then try a different clean rag and 700. A lot of times you will get more dirt.
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Thanks for the explanation. I figured there was a reason just didn't know what.

Kelly
 
I wound up washing everything with lots of dawn dish soap, then sprayed everything down with simple green cleaner several times and rinsed. Then sprayed it with grease/wax remover I got at Autozone and wiped it down real good. I had read the msds for the 700-1 cleaner and saw where it contained isopropyl alchohol so I dowsed it down several times with 92%, wiped everything off real good and let everything dry awhile. Everything went smooth, no problems on the paint. So far,anyway. I guess it might all flake off tomorrow but right now everything is good. Am repainting a motorcycle gas tank. Go to bondo a couple of small dings, then put on the base coat, apply some manufacturer logos, then clear coat. Maaan, this is time consuming. But will be rewarding if it turns out good.
 
Here is a snip from the new epoxy tech sheet, just to keep it straight:

Prepping the Surface: Metal or aluminum must be clean of all rust, oils, and any films. Never clean metal with lacquer thinner, acetone, or reducers of any kind. When prepping aluminum and metals for epoxy always sand aluminum or metals with 80 grit DA paper. Clean bare metals or aluminum with SPI 700 Waterborne WGR, clean with 710 WGR then let it sit 30-60 minutes before applying SPI Epoxy!
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In a pinch, I've had good luck with por-15 "marine clean" water-borne product diluted 1:1 with water, sprayed on, then rinsed off thoroughly after 10-15 minutes and allowed to dry before shooting epoxy, base, clear, etc.... It's a very good degreaser and cleaner and can usually be found at a local paint supplier (the napa / dupont store carries it here).
 
WOW...glad I found the thread and learned to new recommendation for chasing 700 with 710 as I was going off of my old tech sheet and working at the bare metal stage. I think the one panel I did will be ok. Stuff sticks like barnacles to a ship.
 
crashtech;29242 said:
Bob may need to edit his how-to now that it conflicts with official SPI recommendations.
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I tried but I don't see an option to edit-maybe a moderator could do it.
 
Hmm, that was from over a year ago, I don't even remember what I was referring to. If you post a link to it I will see that it gets corrected.
 
If I remember the reason Barry changed the recommendation, solvent then waterborne to waterborne then solvent, was based on the field experience of a high end production shop. By switching it helped evaporate the moisture left behind so they could get in epoxy faster. The epoxy is sensitive to moisture. Nothing wrong with using the old way if you make sure panel is fully dried before spraying epoxy.
 
Greatly appreciated RodMan. When I read "production shop" it all made sense. I am in no hurry when I'm drinking beer.:encouragement:
 
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