NuMetal on windshield perimeter.

[crashtech]

I would not wait to "do the welds." Just get it to metal and epoxy it. Then you can attack the repairs at your leisure, knowing that the rest of the metal is well protected. Just my opinion after doing a few of these jobs.

 

[naji408]

I would not wait to "do the welds." Just get it to metal and epoxy it. Then you can attack the repairs at your leisure, knowing that the rest of the metal is well protected. Just my opinion after doing a few of these jobs.

Makes sense. I know everyone has an excuse, but my plan is to do it all in parts, because of my work schedule and time. I’m using those stripping disc things to get it to bare metal. No matter what I will have to use the DA to hit it with 80 grit. I just want to buy time. Would any cheap primer work to protect the flash rust for let’s say 6 months? Keep in mind I’m in Northern California where humidity is not really an issue. Just Fall coming.

 

[crashtech]

Stripping and epoxy priming IS buying time. That's how it's done. Strip the area, prime, then regroup and plan the attack as time allows. Not sure where cheap primers come into play...?

 

[naji408]

Stripping and epoxy priming IS buying time. That's how it's done. Strip the area, prime, then regroup and plan the attack as time allows. Not sure where cheap primers come into play...?

I may be confusing myself, but as I know, when spraying SPI epoxy primer I have a 7-day window to apply a skim coat? And if I add a skim coat to it, and let it sit too long, it’ll be harder to sand

 

[chevman]

You need to do some research on epoxy, up on the top right side of the page. It takes time to understand it fully.

 

[Jim C]

if you go beyond about 4-5 days on the epoxy then just scuff it and shoot another coat of epoxy before work begins. this will restart you 5-7 day window.

 

[DanMcG]

Yea, that’s the game plan. But I won’t be able to get the 7 day window to skim coat it. I’m taking it down to bare metal at my house, then going to tow it to my repair shop and do the welds. After, hit it with 80 grit then epoxy primer it.

I'd forget about your skim coat for now,
Strip it, epoxy prime it even if you do it in sections or panels. Then when it's all done, send it out for the welding... when it gets back you can sand it and apply your filler and epoxy over that.

 

[MJM]

Maybe this will help naji408 understand the different types of adhesion. There are three types of adhesion.

1. Chemical - this would be when you spray epoxy and within the 7 day window, either apply filler, epoxy or 2k primer.

2. Mechanical - this would be when you spray epoxy and are past the 7 day window. You have to sand with 180 grit to either apply filler, epoxy, or 2k primer.

3. Chemical and mechanical - this would be when you spray epoxy, and within the 7 day window, you sand with 180 grit, apply filler, epoxy, or 2k primer.

 

[naji408]

Maybe this will help naji408 understand the different types of adhesion. There are three types of adhesion.

1. Chemical - this would be when you spray epoxy and within the 7 day window, either apply filler, epoxy or 2k primer.

2. Mechanical - this would be when you spray epoxy and are past the 7 day window. You have to sand with 180 grit to either apply filler, epoxy, or 2k primer.

3. Chemical and mechanical - this would be when you spray epoxy, and within the 7 day window, you sand with 180 grit, apply filler, epoxy, or 2k primer.

Thanks MJM, that is exactly what I didn’t know. I assumed using the SPI epoxy primer I only have a 7 day window to put filler on it.

To clarify,

I’ll put 2 coats of SPI epoxy primer, leave it there as long as I’d like.

Before skim coat coating, sand the existing epoxy primer with 180 and apply filler to get a chemical and mechanical bond?

 

[1A Rock]

Thanks MJM, that is exactly what I didn’t know. I assumed using the SPI epoxy primer I only have a 7 day window to put filler on it.

To clarify,

I’ll put 2 coats of SPI epoxy primer, leave it there as long as I’d like.

Before skim coat coating, sand the existing epoxy primer with 180 and apply filler to get a chemical and mechanical bond?

After 7 days you have lost the chemical part, but 180 and filler is perfectly fine. IMO filler really likes to bond to SPI epoxy. I've not had any issues with it not bonding to epoxy "much" older than 7 days. I have had no issues with it not feathering out or trying to turn loose way after 7 days. Consider the source and take that for what it's worth

 

[Chuck L]

Sands quite easily. Don’t know if a wire brush would do it, but a dremel for sure.

Warm it up and take the majority out w/ a putty knife, scraper, etc.
Once it cools it's pretty much lost its strength. A stiff wire brush on a drill should knock it out.