Noob here - bought my first SPI products!

jcmeyer5

jcmeyer5

Having fun learning!
I have purchased my first SPI products! I got a gallon kit of black epoxy primer, and a gallon each of wax and grease remover. I am starting small... I have the drip rails on my dad's Dart (1969 Dodge Dart 340 Swinger) cleaned out and I want to get them sealed up. I plan to media blast them as well. Couple of quick questions.

First, if I media blast the channels, do I need to sand? My work flow would be: blast, air blow off, wash (and dry), wax and grease remover (and dry), epoxy primer.

Second, do I use both wax and grease removers? If so (and I assume so), what order? I've read enough here to know that it may have changed recently, but the tech sheet didnt make it clear (mentioned both, but didnt say this one THEN that one).

Thanks guys!

Jim
 
My understanding is on bare metal you will need 80 grit DA scratches, Use water born 700 W G remover followed by solvent based 710 W G.
 
No need to sand if you media blast. If you go straight to epoxy after blasting no need to do anything including W&G remover. Surface left by blasting will cause a prep towel to shred itself on the metal. It's hard to get those off so if you media blast correctly you can simply blow it off and epoxy it. Make sure you do not touch any of the surface with your skin and clothing. Use nitrile gloves. 80 grit scratches are considered the minimum. Blasting will leave a coarser tooth than 80 grit so no need for the 80 grit. If you are planning to Soda Blast you need to neutralize the surface before you epoxy. Let us know if that is what you are planning. Otherwise crushed glass is the best abrasive to use. Never use silica sand.

In a prep situation cleaning bare sanded metal for primer using SPI 700 (watebourne) is sufficient. Change your prep towels often. When you are doing final wipedown prior to paint it's always advisable to use the waterbourne W&G remover (SPI 700) first then follow up with a solvent based W&G remover such as SPI 710. Always water based first then solvent.

Here's a link to wiping down a vehicle correctly. Mainly covers wipedown prior to painting but it will help answer some questions you may have.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.p...own-a-vehicle-prior-to-paint.6622/#post-70819

This is completely off topic but I did a double take when I saw your username. My last name is Meyer (just use Hamilton on the web long story:)) and my Dad's initials were J.C. (Joseph Carl). He was originally from the Midwest as well. :)
 
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Chris_Hamilton said:
No need to sand if you media blast. If you go straight to epoxy after blasting no need to do anything including W&G remover. Surface left by blasting will cause a prep towel to shred itself on the metal. It's hard to get those off so if you media blast correctly you can simply blow it off and epoxy it. Make sure you do not touch any of the surface with your skin and clothing. Use nitrile gloves. 80 grit scratches are considered the minimum. Blasting will leave a coarser tooth than 80 grit so no need for the 80 grit. If you are planning to Soda Blast you need to neutralize the surface before you epoxy. Let us know if that is what you are planning. Otherwise crushed glass is the best abrasive to use. Never use silica sand.

In a prep situation cleaning bare sanded metal for primer using SPI 700 (watebourne) is sufficient. Change your prep towels often. When you are doing final wipedown prior to paint it's always advisable to use the waterbourne W&G remover (SPI 700) first then follow up with a solvent based W&G remover such as SPI 710. Always water based first then solvent.

Here's a link to wiping down a vehicle correctly. Mainly covers wipedown prior to painting but it will help answer some questions you may have.
http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.p...own-a-vehicle-prior-to-paint.6622/#post-70819

This is completely off topic but I did a double take when I saw your username. My last name is Meyer (just use Hamilton on the web long story:)) and my Dad's initials were J.C. (Joseph Carl). He was originally from the Midwest as well. :)
Click to expand...
I am James Christopher
My dad is Jeffry Carl
My grandpa is John Carl
My son is Joshua Christopher

So yeah. We planned that!
 
@Chris_Hamilton

Why do you say never use silica sand? I know the health hazards, but as far as for the car itself. It is not as clean? I used it on a 1953 F100 frame once... wore a respirator and a hood. Worked okay. Did it outside in a grassy area so I didnt have the clean it up.
 
The technical term is hydrogen embrittlement IIRC. Silica sand will cause steel to work harden and cause steel to become more brittle. Maybe someone else can explain it better, I just know that especially on thin steel you don't want to do it. Crushed glass is cheap uses the same equipment, and has no silica, so it's a no brainer to me.
 
Not as cheap as play sand... :)

I use crushed glass in the blast cabinet. I have never needed to blast sheet metal, just the frame that one time. Nice thing about sand is not having to necessarily clean it up if you blast in a grassy area. Helps break up the clay we call soil here in Indiana.

I'll use the glass on the car where needed. I dont plan on blasting much, just the tricky difficult areas.
 
I just paid $30 for 50lb at Harbor Freight, and Northern Tool currently says $48 for 25lb.
 
Isn't it Tractor Supply that has the fine Black Beauty for about $8.00 for fifty pounds? It works well but only the fine goes through my blaster well.

John
 
Sprayed my first ever SPI epoxy yesterday... hell, first every anything! Using a POS gun from HF. It went on well, despite the gun sputtering on occasion (I think the fan control was leaking air). Did 3 coats.. This morning it is nice a smooth. Has a bit more gloss than I anticipated. I can see now why it needs scuffed after setting for a spell. It did get a few rain drops on it after it flashed the last coat, and so I have some marks, but metal is sealed, and that is what counts!
 
Obviously this is just a swag, but I suspect the packing nut on your fluid control needle needs to be tightened a little. If that packing gets loose, the gun will suck air in through the fluid control needle and cause sputtering.

John
 
packing nut... that is the one right behind the nozzle... a "set screw" type deal with a slot in it?
 
jcmeyer5 said:
packing nut... that is the one right behind the nozzle... a "set screw" type deal with a slot in it?
Click to expand...

I don't think so. Of course I am just guessing at your gun design but the fluid packing is the nut that the fluid adjusting needle goes through directly behind the fluid cap (between the main housing and the handle.

John

2B46DC92-B6CB-4909-B53B-BB198C9078A3.jpeg
 
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