New dessicant system...pvc??

RosharonRooster

RosharonRooster

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I got a new dessicant system im going to be installing soon. For years all I've had is a simple devilbiss water trap and have gotten good results. I see alot of people run the copper lines with ball valves. My question is an pvc pipe be used? What would be the pro or con of this?

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I was thinking of running a tee off the compressor and using the devilbiss side for air tools only. And using the dessicant side for spraying. I use air tools much more than I spray
 
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If you were a business it would be an OSHA violation due to the safety concerns. Many internet experts will validate its use by stating how many years they have used PVC without an incident, but it really is a ticking timebomb. We used black steel when we installed the air system in my shop.
 
I used soldered 1/2" copper (shark bites were not invented yet). I don't have any problems, the runs aren't that long.
If I were to do it today my choice would be 3/4 steel pipe or 3/4 copper. The system still needs to be installed correctly with pitched runs, traps etc.
 
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ok next question

Currently I have my compressor in my shop. I'm running 50ft rubber hose to the building next door where I paint. Should I put the copper setup and filter system close to the compressor and then rub my 50ft hose from that...or should I run my 50ft hose to the next door....and put the copper setup and filter system in the building where I paint?
 
I did the same as Robert 8 years ago, used black iron pipe (1"). I did a 160ft loop around the shop, all pitched, and tapped down drain pipes off the bottom of the loop, and air connection down pipes off the top of the loop. It works quite well in cooling the air. I put all my regulators, traps, dryers, filters near where I'm using the air for a particular process. The loop is at full AC cutout psi. I have not seen any rust flakes or junk in my filters yet, which was the only down fall I read about before installing the pipe system. Black Iron is cheap but very labor intensive to install and have no leaks. I found Rectorseal #7 the best soft set sealant to use at the advise of my Plumber friend.

Copper is expensive, but very clean, and easy to install and take apart with the sharkbite connectors DH mentioned. I wanted to do copper originally but it just wasn't in the budget back then.
 
Completely agree that there is no thermal transfer at all with PVC. Copper, metal is always going to be cooler unless you are right on the compressor and that thermal difference is what helps the fluid to get out of the air. The only downside to black steel pipe is the moisture is going to make that pipe rust, for the most part, its not an issue, just your pee valves throw out rusty water.
 
Copper dissipates heat better than iron/steel. Worth the extra cost imho. 3/4 has significantly more surface area than 1/2 which further increases cooling.

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
Copper dissipates heat better than iron/steel. Worth the extra cost imho. 3/4 has significantly more surface area than 1/2 which further increases cooling.

Don
Click to expand...
Good points. The 3/4" copper is approximately 50% more surface than 1/2". That is based on the circumference of those 2 nominal sizes, the actual copper tubing is a little larger than the nominal sizes.
 

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Correct, use the "L" copper. See chart of uses for copper pipe below. Heres the link to the Copper Tube Handbook page.​

Clikc on the "(See Table 1)" blue link and a table will pop up with info on approved applications. They do not list Compressed Air for Type M copper, only Type L and Type K.

http://www.copper.org/applications/p...1stand_id.html


Table 14.1. Copper Tube: Types, Standards, Applications, Tempers, Lengths​

Coils:
Coils:
Coils:
Tube typeColor codeStandardApplication 1Commercially available lengths 2
Nominal or standard sizesDrawnAnnealed
Type KGreenASTM B 88 3- Domestic water service and distribution
- Fire protection
- Solar
- Fuel/fuel oil
- HVAC
- Snow melting
- Compressed air
- Natural gas
- Liquified petroleum (LP) gas
- Vacuum		Straight lengths:
1/4 inch to 8 inch20 ft.20 ft.
10 inch18 ft.18 ft.
12 inch12 ft.12 ft.
1/4 inch to 1 inch-60 ft.
-100 ft.
1-1/4 inch and 1-1/2 inch-60 ft.
2 inch-40 ft.
-45 ft.
Type LBlueASTM B 88- Domestic water service and distribution
- Fire protection
- Solar
- Fuel/fuel oil
- Natural gas
- Liquified petroleum (LP) gas
- HVAC
- Snow melting
- Compressed air
- Vacuum		Straight lengths:
1/4 inch to 10 inch20 ft.20 ft.
12 inch18 ft.18 ft.
1/4 to 1 inch-60 ft.
-100 ft.
1-1/4 inch to 1-1/2 inch-60 ft.
2 inch-40 ft.
-45 ft.
Type MRedASTM B 88- Domestic water service and distribution
- Fire protection
- Solar
- Fuel/fuel oil
- HVAC
- Snow melting
- Vacuum		Straight lengths:
1/4 inch to 12 inch20 ft.N/A
DWVYellowASTM B 306- Drain, waste, vent
- HVAC
- Solar		Straight lengths:
1-1/4 inch to 8 inch20 ft.N/A
ACRBlueASTM B 280
- Air conditioning
- Refrigeration
- Natural gas
- Liquefied petroleum (LP) gas
- Compressed air​
Straight lengths:
1/4 inch to 4-1/8 inch20 ft.4
1/8 inch to 1-5/8 inch-50 ft.
OXY, MED
OXY/MED
OXY/ACR
ACR/MED		(K) Green
(L) Blue		ASTM B 819- Medical gas
- Compressed medical air
- Vacuum		Straight lengths:
1/4 inch to 8 inch20 ft.N/A
 
Well my project is wrapped up. I got the system from USAweld.com. it was 360 shipped and then the copper and stuff was another few hundred. I have it tee off going to my old devillbiss water trap. And thats supplying air tools. The other end goes to the dessicant system then thru the wall to my paint room. Hopefully I get clean dry air. This was my first time soldering copper. Looks like crap but its been holding 120 psi since Friday night and no leaks! (I need a hose reel)
 

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the only tip I ever got for soldering copper was to keep a damp rag around to wipe the joint right after the solder melted. I prefer them holding together than looking pretty anyway. Best way is to keep it clamped well. If you dont have those valves peeing a little all the time, a longer lengh of pipe before the valve will give you a little more capacity to hold water to drain.
At least you soldered it, going with those snake bit fittings would have added a couple hundred more.
 
anotheridiot said:
the only tip I ever got for soldering copper was to keep a damp rag around to wipe the joint right after the solder melted. I prefer them holding together than looking pretty anyway. Best way is to keep it clamped well. If you dont have those valves peeing a little all the time, a longer lengh of pipe before the valve will give you a little more capacity to hold water to drain.
At least you soldered it, going with those snake bit fittings would have added a couple hundred more.
Click to expand...
I agree you need some length on those drops for the condensed moisture to collect. I collect quite a bit of moisture in my drops.

Don
 
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