New Compressor Recommendations

jcpettit

Promoted Users
It appears it is time for a new compressor. I have been using an old Quincy QE-5 compressor with 80 gallon tank for years. It has finally played out. I have been looking, and I do not even really know where to begin. I am a single person shop that only does collision repair part time. Maybe 2 to 3 cars a month on average. What compressors would ya'll recommend for someone in my position? I want to make sure I have plenty of cfm for spraying (using a SATA 5000 RP) and running a sander. I think my gun uses 15.5 cfm.
 

Dean Jenkins

Promoted Users
It appears it is time for a new compressor. I have been using an old Quincy QE-5 compressor with 80 gallon tank for years. It has finally played out. I have been looking, and I do not even really know where to begin. I am a single person shop that only does collision repair part time. Maybe 2 to 3 cars a month on average. What compressors would ya'll recommend for someone in my position? I want to make sure I have plenty of cfm for spraying (using a SATA 5000 RP) and running a sander. I think my gun uses 15.5 cfm.
There was a pretty good discussion about that last month. Here is the thread http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/is-this-compressor-good-enough.8426/
 

Jim C

Oldtimer
if i was buying a new compressor i would be looking at a quincy or an eaton 7.5hp. quincy makes a good one that is aftercooled and pressure lubricated. my eaton 7.5 has been great for 16 years now. its used everyday, all day long. pump is a copy of a saylor-beall which is pretty much bullet proof. crash has a real one.
 

elwood

Promoted Users
have your pump rebuilt .
@shine , Why would a rebuilt pump be better than a new one? Is it quality of metal used or ? I've heard this advice for years and never understood why. Legitimate question on something I know very little about. Thanks.
 

Jim C

Oldtimer
Well if only the pump is shot but the tank, motor and everything else is good they why buy a whole new compressor.
 

jcpettit

Promoted Users
During lunch I actually spoke with a guy local that builds compressors and he said the same thing (which this is the line of work he is in so I cannot say that he would recommend another approach LOL). But he did say that my Quincy compressor was built with much better quality components than the new compressors. He said he would take mine rebuilt over most of the new compressors any day.
 

elwood

Promoted Users
Thanks all, sort of what I thought. Just needed someone with more knowledge of compressors to verify.
 

shine

Member
what makes you think it is shot ??? i bought my 5 hp champion rebuilt in 82 , had it freshened up when i moved to the farm in 97 , will rebuild it again when i have time .
 

jcpettit

Promoted Users
I am not 100% certain that it is shot. The guy I spoke with gave me a few things to check and I might even get him to come check it out. Just was not sure if it was worth putting money into or just biting the bullet and buying a new one.
 

EddieF

Top Banana
1st thought i always have when reading threads like this is how often did he change the oil & and what oil.
I'd rebuild if tank & motor's got life left.
 

jcpettit

Promoted Users
One more question. I currently have a cheap HF filter/separator at my air line drop that is used for just general shop use. It is leaking horribly and needs to be replaced (I am not a fan of it anyways). What type of filters/separators are you guys running for just general shop use? There are so many options out there. Is a 40 micron filter enough for general shop use? Or should I go finer?
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
Me being a one man "Shop", I use this:

Combined with the Arrow desiccant dryer in this thread:

You being in Mississippi you may want to think about a refrigerated dryer in place of the desiccant dryer.
 

jcpettit

Promoted Users
Me being a one man "Shop", I use this:

Combined with the Arrow desiccant dryer in this thread:

You being in Mississippi you may want to think about a refrigerated dryer in place of the desiccant dryer.
I actually just picked up a HF air dryer based on recommendations from this forum, but I have not hooked it up yet. I have been using the Sharpe Dryair system inside my paint booth, but I do have another drop inside the shop that is used for just general use (sanding, grinding, impacts, etc.). That was the connection I was curious about and need to replace. Currently, it is just a single air filter rated at 40 microns. Are you saying that I should use multiple stages for that drop too?
 

shine

Member
mount the dryer as far away from the compressor as possible . i use a mcguard filter at the end .

it takes a lot of abuse/neglect to trash a quality compressor pump . i'm about to hook my champion back up and run it again . even old it outperforms the IR i bought .
 

Jim C

Oldtimer
i have an oil coalescing filter between my compressor and refer dryer then a filter/regulator like the one chris posted in the booth. you want to remove all the oil mist before going into the dryer and getting into your shop plumbing. i dont have any filters on my other shop connections for grinders or sanders.
 

texasking

Promoted Users
I run all my air through the dryer. Your air tools don't like moisture, and if you use that hose to blow anything off, water and oil come out with the air.
 

jcpettit

Promoted Users
I run all my air through the dryer. Your air tools don't like moisture, and if you use that hose to blow anything off, water and oil come out with the air.
Yes, this is why I purchased the air dryer. My air to my booth is the farthest away from the compressor and combined with the Dryair system I really did not have too much of a moisture problem in my booth. The desiccant just does not last long. But the two drops inside my shop were always full of moisture even with the filter/separators, especially the one closest to the compressor. The closest drop has approx. 30 ft. of 3/4" black iron pipe between it and the compressor and I cannot even use it during the summer. I actually think the black iron has rust inside now so I am considering just ripping it all out and starting from scratch.
 
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