Need your advices for repainting rims

I don t remember the time between primer application and color,could be 1 week but temp never got over 70,this primer is a 1K so could be a part of the problem.
I have decided to strip back to the original layer and over,edges and curves are bare to the metal,will clean up thoroughly and used the right 2K primers in better conditions,ordered everything yesterday.
Just asking what you guys are thinking,there is that second rim I haven t touched yet,it is cleared with 3 coats since a month or so and stored in my house s attic,temp is 70 and up,is there any chance for it to cure out andhold in time .
 
I really don’t believe your primer was necessarily to blame the fact that it looks fine. Though you do need a primer that will bond with bare metal. You may have the same issues with the untouched wheel but I’d say it’s up to you personally if you redo it. Remounting the tires might damage the rim so...
 
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I don t remember the time between primer application and color,could be 1 week but temp never got over 70,this primer is a 1K so could be a part of the problem.
I have decided to strip back to the original layer and over,edges and curves are bare to the metal,will clean up thoroughly and used the right 2K primers in better conditions,ordered everything yesterday.
Just asking what you guys are thinking,there is that second rim I haven t touched yet,it is cleared with 3 coats since a month or so and stored in my house s attic,temp is 70 and up,is there any chance for it to cure out andhold in time .

Definitely needed a better scuff after that much time. Most will call out recoat windows, but after a week you need to get that gloss off.
 
If it were me considering how much your time is worth, now I would take them to a powdercoater, have them blasted and PC'd in primer. Bring 'em home and hit with red scotchbrite and resume painting with base/clear. BTW... almost never use spray can aerosol products on anything that require any time/labor.
 
Time is money you're right but I'd like to learn and this is a good lesson here for me,this forum is a good place and I'm happy I've found you guys.
" BTW... almost never use spray can aerosol products on anything that require any time/labor ".,what do you mean ?
 
If you spend your valuable time and efforts to properly prep something, especially if it's a tough job or if it's valuable, I would not spray cheap dime store spray can paint on it. Spray cans are air dry generic cheap enamel, I don't care if it does say epoxy. :)
Same goes for spray can primers, although I have seen some zinc chromate spray cans that held up better than spray can top coats, but I sure as hell would put it on anything that I couldn't pop in the bead blaster and blow it all off in a minute.
 
Exactly what he just said. Don't cheap out on effort with rattle cans. I tried a couple of different rattle can primers years ago on some steel ground effects I made as both a temp coverup & as an outright experiment. Used rattle can black ceramic paint. Buffed up to damn near real ss black paint which made the experiment look good.. Then a few months later , unexpectedly had to daily drive vehicle a few months. Several spots lost adhesion , bubbled & peeled.
So to anyone not heeding this advice, I don't even need to offer to go kick you for it. You would kick yourself soon enough.:oops:
 
I have not tried it yet, but Eastwood has some spray cans that you push a red button in the bottom of the can to release activator, then mix in their 2K products.
We were just going to do what should have been a simple oil pan gasket, that, since we needed to pull the motor to get to, is turning into a huge project, including bearings, oil pump, and getting away from the 700R4 and going with a muncie 4 speed. Anyway, I bought the quart of header coating, sprayed it, baked it, steel wooled it, whole nine yards, the headers are covered in surface rust. So I dunk them into my derusting tank and the coating is fizzing, darkening and stripping. Getting the KBS system to give it a try and will attempt to use their spray cans. I kicked myself for blowing 200 and getting crap, will probably kick myself for getting these spray cans, but we cant all do it right all the time.
 
KBS, their spray cans are NOT mcu, they're not even urethane. Even though they say "our mcu Topcoat available in aerosol cans" It's NOT their mcu Topcoat in a spray bomb (nozzle would clog with cured material). If you call them and press the issue they will finally say that it's a "high grade" enamel. (I do use their products all the time) At any rate, you're gonna have to spend a lot of time and tedious work to get the engine block prepped, don't spray it with a rattle can of any kind. On exhaust idk other than jet hot type coatings. Local powder coater will do a similar product here locally.
But my litmus test is gasoline and brake cleaner. If you spray bomb say under hood or frame and suspension parts and spend the time to make it look great, then the first time you pull a carb or a fuel pressure regulator, or the first time you add fluids and it runs down the motor all the way to that pretty frame, you got spray can paint dissolving and making a mess.
My go-to for underhood and frame\suspension parts is AG-111 satin black urethane over epoxy primer, you can wash it with brake cleaner, if you get brake fluid spills it wipes off unaffected. You can easily touch up scratches later with satin black mcu and it will be practically unnoticeable and the touch up will be impervious to fuel and solvents.

I don't trust the 2k aerosols either, for near the same money I'll buy a quart of urethane and use a nice spray gun.
 
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