Maximum base coat time before clear?

CK-2

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I’m doing an old coke machine and was planning on painting, waiting over night and clearing. I’ve ran into a problem and now it might be a week before I can clear.
I’m usung ppg shopline base and sprayed the base lastnight.
It says 24hrs maximum to clear. Is that really the max I can wait. Due to work it may be next weekend before I can clear it.
 
Pretty sure that is the case. You will likely need to scuff and reshoot one coat of base. Make sure you use activator in your base.

Don
 
your fine, clear it whenever your ready. providing you dont do something like spray the clear super dry or anything like that then you will be fine. i have cleared base that has sat for 6 months and the clear lock up on it just fine. those 24hr recommendations are guides for bodyshops.
 
Some of my restorations because I can only do on Saturday or Sunday, I spray the base Sunday and clear the next Saturday, all i do is a light tacking and spray.
Want to test just to make you sleep better, let base set and wipe it off with urethane reducer a week later.
 
Sorry it looks like I gave you some bad advice. I need to stay in my backyard hack lane....

Don

Your not wrong!!

Most companies say for example after 16 or 48 hours sand and re-coat BUT,
Something all the formulators have known for years is IF it does not leave booth its an unlimited re-coat time.
WHY they don't say its is, say your painting in your garage and its in base and people walking in and out, its at big risk.
Or you paint in an insurance shop and you just applied base to a front end in the meantime an adjuster is raising holly H++ about the rental car on another car, so shop manager says pull the front-end base job out and fix this one today. Where will the car be pulled to? In the shop? outside? BIG problems either way.
So about 4-7 years ago one company Said "base-coat has an unlimited re-coat time IF it does not leave the BOOTH"
Within weeks 2 or 3 company's also came out. These were all the high end base companies Spies, Standox were first and don't know who else has came out of the closet as not paid attention.
 
Ive been seeing guys spraying ADPRO to to parts that sit open for a week or so after airbrushing. Does this help at all?
 
Ive been seeing guys spraying ADPRO to to parts that sit open for a week or so after airbrushing. Does this help at all?

I doubt it helps and may even hurt, a lot of different cases if you don't need it it can hurt adhesion but I have never tested under base like this to know. If asked for my base, I would say don't do it.
 
Your not wrong!!

Most companies say for example after 16 or 48 hours sand and re-coat BUT,
Something all the formulators have known for years is IF it does not leave booth its an unlimited re-coat time.
WHY they don't say its is, say your painting in your garage and its in base and people walking in and out, its at big risk.
Or you paint in an insurance shop and you just applied base to a front end in the meantime an adjuster is raising holly H++ about the rental car on another car, so shop manager says pull the front-end base job out and fix this one today. Where will the car be pulled to? In the shop? outside? BIG problems either way.
So about 4-7 years ago one company Said "base-coat has an unlimited re-coat time IF it does not leave the BOOTH"
Within weeks 2 or 3 company's also came out. These were all the high end base companies Spies, Standox were first and don't know who else has came out of the closet as not paid attention.

Barry Not really a situation I encounter so I'm trying to understand exactly. I feel like I know why but perhaps you or Jim can verify. So re-coat is unlimited if it does not leave the booth, but if it does is the issue the contamination that would get on the basecoat by it being outside of the clean environment? If that is the case what about going back over it with W&G like 700? Yes, no maybe? With what you said being the case it would seem like to me if you had to pull something out of the booth putting a coat of intercoat on it before pulling it out would be helpful. Yes, no??
 
Barry Not really a situation I encounter so I'm trying to understand exactly. I feel like I know why but perhaps you or Jim can verify. So re-coat is unlimited if it does not leave the booth, but if it does is the issue the contamination that would get on the basecoat by it being outside of the clean environment? If that is the case what about going back over it with W&G like 700? Yes, no maybe? With what you said being the case it would seem like to me if you had to pull something out of the booth putting a coat of intercoat on it before pulling it out would be helpful. Yes, no??

If pulled out of booth the base should always be wet-sanded, cleaned with only a solvent type cleaner and re-coated.
Never use 700 on a base as it can eat most bases alive.
Depending on structure of base, I like to avoid cleaning if possible although I have done it, I let it set overnight before next application, overkill Yes but I have had calls where the cleaning of base was the cause of an issue. Not a lot but a few calls.
Heavy polyester type bases i would clear within 24 hours, such as Wanda, Diamont although i have tested Wanda 14 days later then cleared (setting in breezeway) and then let set a week and the adhesion tester showed no weakness.
A further note hear is all the Restoration shops I talk to everyday unless its a cut in job all let the base set until the next day to clear with no exceptions or consideration as to brand of base.

Another consideration is clear you are using, solids equal adhesion, so if using a 39% solid clear and a lot are less, I'd think twice about how long the base sets.

Like everything else in this business there are a lot of other variables to consider that is why I will give so many different times on re-coating epoxy
as i know what questions to ask when I get the call.
 
Never use 700 on a base as it can eat most bases alive.

I can testify to this. I have only bought one gallon of the 700 because I used it to wipe down some base coat before spraying clear and it stripped the base off the panel almost instantly.

Since then I have stuck with the 710, it handles everything I need a W&G remover for and no risk of accidentally grabbing the wrong jug.
 
let the clear cure a couple days, sand then base. DO NOT spray the base wet and let each coat flash twice as long as normal. remember your putting solvent on fresh clear. you stand a chance of wrinkling it anywhere the clear is thin
 
let the clear cure a couple days, sand then base. DO NOT spray the base wet and let each coat flash twice as long as normal. remember your putting solvent on fresh clear. you stand a chance of wrinkling it anywhere the clear is thin

Now that's experience talking right there. That's something one won't find in a book.
 
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