Looking for a Fifties/Sixties Era Shine

Fotunateson

Promoted Users
As the thread title says I’m looking for a nice shine but not super shiny. I’ve sprayed SS Acrylic Urethane (PPG Shop Line) and cut polished and then buffed and it shines great! But... cars in the eras im talking about I don’t believe we’re that shiny. So being a true amateur I was wondering if I cut up to 1000 or 1500 or 2000 grit and then polished would that give me what I want? I’m thinking it would give me some very shiny sand scratches if that.

Comments?

Edit: I think I’m in the wrong category.
 
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Well yes they were shiny. You ever see a car painted with lacquer that has been cut and buffed? Factory paint of that era was shiny as well. They lost their gloss quicker though. Needed regular maintenance to keep the shine.

. Doing what you are asking is the first stages of cutting it flat for more shine. I don't know what you have in mind but that won't get you there. If you want a more period "authentic" look. Single stage would be the way to go. It will give you gloss and depth without the plastic look that clear sometimes has. Only real option these days.
 
As I stated I use SS Acrylic Urethane but I’ve cut up to 3000 and 5000 and an excellent shine results. And I know what a good lacquer paint job looks like. So how to achieve a somewhat less, perhaps deep, shine is what I’m after. Shiny but less deep I think sums it up now that I think about it. If anyone has tips let me know. I’m not a fan of BC/CC look on a restored vehicle though I admire the skill it took to get it there.
 
But why?
Look at the high-end resto shops; if restoring a Chevelle mustang from the 60s or 50s, or 60s corvette , they are doing flawless paint jobs and 100 times better than they came from the factory.
I've never heard of a judge deducting points for too nice of a paint job.

Auction:
If the original paint, they will pay big; if a high-end restro, they pay big; if a repaint, it scares the collectors to death as they have no clue the quality of the paint or how the job was done.
In my book the paint job can never be good enough.
 
But... cars in the eras im talking about I don’t believe we’re that shiny.

Comments?


i think iffen ya headed over to a site like autogeek, where people can detail cars from that era that still have factory paint, you might find your answer.

myself, im thinkin the gloss was there but depth of image may not have been as pronounced as what can be seen today.
 
So how to achieve a somewhat less, perhaps deep, shine is what I’m after.
Like I said SS is the only real option these days. Nitrocellulose lacquer as well as acrylic lacquer are long since out of production by the major paint companies. As are the acrylic enamels. Cars from the 50's, the majority were nitrocellulose lacquer or some form of baked enamel. In the '60's nitrocellulose went by the wayside and GM and others started using acrylic lacquer as well as acrylic enamel (baked). The closest thing to emulate that look today is single stage urethane. Like I said above it doesn't have the plastic look, which is what I think you were objecting too. Like I said above, it's your only real viable option.
 
I've used Universal with 7% SPI flattening agent (RIP :() to get a slightly cloudy shine to replicate old/original paint. It has nearly the same look as old paint that's been buffed but never comes back 100% as nice as new paint.

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I sold 2 gallons of black lacquer about 10 years ago, that I had saved since the mid 1980s. That was because it doesn't make sense to use it anymore. I love the look, but like Chris said, SS is close enough. The guy that bought it was building a high end Corvette for show only, so it made sense for him. I don't like the plastic look of some clear coat jobs, but SS suits me just fine, and some of the younger crowd may not even like the look of lacquer.
 
Well yes they were shiny. You ever see a car painted with lacquer that has been cut and buffed? Factory paint of that era was shiny as well. They lost their gloss quicker though. Needed regular maintenance to keep the shine.

. Doing what you are asking is the first stages of cutting it flat for more shine. I don't know what you have in mind but that won't get you there. If you want a more period "authentic" look. Single stage would be the way to go. It will give you gloss and depth without the plastic look that clear sometimes has. Only real option these days.
Ahh buffed lacquer. I remember my father telling me of those days. He said body work was much more simple in those days.
 
I've used Universal with 7% SPI flattening agent (RIP :() to get a slightly cloudy shine to replicate old/original paint. It has nearly the same look as old paint that's been buffed but never comes back 100% as nice as new paint.

uaamNG5h.jpg


2mzBvx3h.jpg


Ldx3Xi2h.jpg


3mG6fI2h.jpg


52JFNfWh.jpg


qb0Q56vh.jpg


TVdJADZh.jpg

I suppose I havent realized…no more matte clear or flattening agent. What’s a man to do now? 50/50 clear and reducer so it dies back like crazy? Lol
 
i think iffen ya headed over to a site like autogeek, where people can detail cars from that era that still have factory paint, you might find your answer.

myself, im thinkin the gloss was there but depth of image may not have been as pronounced as what can be seen today.
That’s what I’m trying to describe.
 
I suppose I havent realized…no more matte clear or flattening agent. What’s a man to do now? 50/50 clear and reducer so it dies back like crazy? Lol

I've been too occupied with mourning the loss of SPI flattener to look for an alternative.

I used PPG One Choice before switching to SPI, but I'd have to do a run of test panels at different mix ratios if I need to use it in the future. I had my ratios down with Universal/SPI flattener.
 
I've been too occupied with mourning the loss of SPI flattener to look for an alternative.

I used PPG One Choice before switching to SPI, but I'd have to do a run of test panels at different mix ratios if I need to use it in the future. I had my ratios down with Universal/SPI flattener.
Jim C turned me on to Utech 890. Similar to the SPI. Just follow the TDS.
 
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