Kitchen cabinets, White Epoxy Primer?

hoffspeedusa

New Member
Question. I have some kitchen cabinets that I am looking to do a quick flip job on. The cabinets are already stained with a nice finish.

Can I just sand the cabinets with 220 or 320 then shoot SPI WHITE Epoxy primer and leave it as is?

The cabinets are not really exposed to sun or UV.

Thanks for your help.
 
Why wouldn't you just use a good acrylic latex white, like Benjamin Moore? The white epoxy doesn't have good coverage and I don't know if the solvent would react with any of the stain currently on it, especially if it's a lacquer. If it's bare wood I'd think the wood would really soak the epoxy up similar to how body filler will. Therefore, stick with latex paints used for trim, etc. The Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo is a great white paint for that. But at $80/gallon they think it's great too.
 
Darkened as in...?
Thought it was 'dark' to begin with as in like Bourbon. Then again,I haven't gotten any in quite awhile either.
 
Thinking along the lines with Lizer, Ben Moore has a trim paint that can easily be used on cabinets....Its their "advance" line..It is a hybrid paint, oil and water....I used it on all the trim in side my house, flattens out nice....Does yellow a tad over time..Water clean up..You will need something over the stained wood..Ben Moore 01- standard white..Satin has more sheen that you would think..Nice paint!- Suggested re-coat time is 16 hrs, if i remember correctly
 
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Benjamin Moore Advance is what I use for casings, moldings, wainscot, doors and cabinets. Works excellent but is somewhat slow to dry. Don’t rush 2nd coat. I do most of this by spraying offsite and install later. If it’s in your own home you can keep family away from it while it dries but hard to police a clients house.
 
I spray the Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo thinned down with Floetrol to make it spray better, using a Wagner sprayer. It atomizes it so fine that the paint is try to the touch within 10 min usually. I recoat about every 30 minutes. I have used it for all the doors, trim and molding in my house as well. Has held up very well since 2011 when I first applied it. Hasn't yellowed at all.
 
I spray the Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo thinned down with Floetrol to make it spray better, using a Wagner sprayer. It atomizes it so fine that the paint is try to the touch within 10 min usually. I recoat about every 30 minutes. I have used it for all the doors, trim and molding in my house as well. Has held up very well since 2011 when I first applied it. Hasn't yellowed at all.
I used to use the oil base satin Impervo with Penetrol. Is Floetrol the water base version?
 
It is also available as waterborne acrylic which is what I use.

Ahhh, got ya..Thanks...That also explains your comment about Impervo Not yellowing..The old "oil" impervo most certainly did yellow
 
i hate to disagree with any of the info above but from someone that paints cabinets, NEVER...EVER use latex on them. the only thing typically over the counter that could be used on the cabinets is the ben moore advance that was recommended. that is an alkyd enamel. it works just ok and it is slow to dry but for over the counter stuff it has the best durability. latex can only be used on something that is static and not handled at all. there is zero durability to it, its soft and gummy and just the oil from your hands and touching it will break it down. it will eventually get dirty, and soft everywhere you touch it. its not a cabinet finish. typically you would prime with a 2k urethane primer. the white spi 2k sealer or turbo primer will work well. no need for epoxy. prime, sand then topcoat with either a solvent conversion varnish if you can find it or a matte ss will work great as well. most good cabinets that you buy or have made will be using one or the other. avoid lacquer as well since that cant handle moisture.
 
I agree completely with Jim C. I would not use latex paint, even on a quick flip. It won't hold up, and probably won't even look good.

I've been finishing furniture most of my life, and agree that there is a better way to do it. I use ML Campbell finishes, but if you can't get them, Sherwin Williams has commercial grade finishes as well.

I would use a catalysed primer, MLC Clawlock has been around for decades and is a very sticky primer. MLC Stealth is a good 2 part top coat. Both are reasonably priced, and easy enough to spray, especially if you have experience spraying automotive finishes.

One coat of each would be perfect for a quick flip job.
 
I have had the Benjamin Moore latex on my bathroom vanity cabinets since 2012. When should it start failing? Same with my doors.
 
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