I SUCK AT SPRAYING UNIVERSAL CLEAR

The urethane wave was terrible. I can't for the life of me figure out what I did wrong,
The more I thought about it, I think I know what happened. When I ordered clear and activator, I ordered 1 fast ,2 normal, and 1 slow. Temperature when I cleared the fenders and doors was low 60's, and I used the normal activator. Everything came out great. The next day I cleared the bed, but temperatures were in the low 70's. Having mostly normal activator, I used it on the first coat, then waited 30 minutes before spraying a second coat mixed half normal, half slow. Waited 30 minutes, then sprayed a third coat with slow activator, The bed looked pretty good with only a little trash and minor orange peel, until I started sanding to buff, then the wave really started showing. What happened, I believe, was the first coat locked up so tight I had to slow down or move closer to get it wet, then the third coat same thing, compounding the problem. I always use slow or very slow but temperatures had been cool, and I got away with the normal on the smaller panels in the cool temps, but not on the larger panels in slightly warmer temps. Lesson learned:oops:
 
Chris,
The wall is wrong as you are losing scfm and airdrop per 25 ft of hose.
Your skill level is overriding this setup, and that is fine.
If board one day try 140 at wall and 28 or so at gun see if a difference. Just for fun
Try 140 at the wall with a nasty metallic one day, just for giggles.
 
I finally did it! I sprayed last night on a front clip and bumper with Barry's advice to just let it go and the Universal is slicker than I have ever sprayed. I just need to calm down and spray instead of being so tense all the time I spray, I really appreciate all you guys more than you know!
 
Barry when you first mentioned this (pressure adjustment) I racked my brain trying to figure out why I was doing it different, but thinking about it the other day I realized that I wasn't really doing it different. I got 150 psi coming into the regulator at the wall. Only difference is I adjust it there not on a regulator at the gun. That and the hose So I guess I do it closer to your way than I realized . . .

This is the way I do it now. 150 psi to the wall regulator, temporary gauge on the gun set wide open, hold trigger on gun full open and adjust wall regulator to get proper psi at gun. Then remove the temporary gauge.

Maybe one day I can afford to buy a gun with a built in gauge but so far the above technique has proven itself. Not having the extra length of the gauge on the gun makes things easier when spraying.
 
I thought about that when we get back to normal, Brian and i are wrking from home still.

That would be awesome if you did. I know I would watch and learn from it


This is the way I do it now. 150 psi to the wall regulator, temporary gauge on the gun set wide open, hold trigger on gun full open and adjust wall regulator to get proper psi at gun. Then remove the temporary gauge.

I was typing something similar to this. I used the 2 regulator method, but I kind of want to try something like 68 to eliminate a regulator.

But I see Barry's points too, so positives and negatives for both ways I suppose.
 
And as for the "not caring" attitude when spraying, this was my first attempt at it. Iwata LPH 1.4 tip, moved in close and sprayed it heavy (maybe a little too much so) but wanted to get that first coat to look like I wanted it when finished.
This is as sprayed before cut and buff (3 coats):
ColorasSprayed.jpg


EuroClearassprayed.jpg

Did have one slight Landslide of clear but that was me being clumsy.
 
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I finally did it! I sprayed last night on a front clip and bumper with Barry's advice to just let it go and the Universal is slicker than I have ever sprayed. I just need to calm down and spray instead of being so tense all the time I spray, I really appreciate all you guys more than you know!

I do the same stuff, get all ramped up and end up overreacting. By the time I went through the work of sanding down to flow coat I would calm down a little bit and be a lot happier.
 
This is the way I do it now. 150 psi to the wall regulator, temporary gauge on the gun set wide open, hold trigger on gun full open and adjust wall regulator to get proper psi at gun. Then remove the temporary gauge.

Maybe one day I can afford to buy a gun with a built in gauge but so far the above technique has proven itself. Not having the extra length of the gauge on the gun makes things easier when spraying.
Similar method. I made up a compact fitting from aluminum pipe fittings and leave it on the gun. It's not too much more sticking out of the gun.
NPT threads are not exactly right for the gun nipple but the aluminum is forgiving.
IMG_0101.jpg

This is the only gun I use like that. All my other guns have diaphragm type regulators and are fed with the wall high.
 
First car I ever shot UV on, 2010/11 I believe. 4 wet coats, shot with my DevilbissPLUS. I remember I got home from work after 5 and the car wasnt even masked. Sealed, based and cleared....My head hit my pillow @ like 5am. Not one single run in this job from what I can remember......

What changed since then....most likely me :( Way over thinking this stuff to be honest.

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@orangejuiced86 5.0 LX Notchback? I bought one of the last 5.0 LX Notch's new back in late 93 after about six months working flat rate at Shop. Well almost new it had about a 1000 miles on it, never titled though. My Dad was not happy with me.:) That was a fun car. Put a set of aluminum GT-40 heads and a GT40 intake. E303 cam, bigger injectors and 3.73 gears. 5 speed. Good Times.:cool:
 
And as for the "not caring" attitude when spraying, this was my first attempt at it. Iwata LPH 1.4 tip, moved in close and sprayed it heavy (maybe a little too much so) but wanted to get that first coat to look like I wanted it when finished.
This is as sprayed before cut and buff (3 coats):
View attachment 10945

View attachment 10947
Did have one slight Landslide of clear but that was me being clumsy.
Do you use retarder in any coats? If so how much?
 
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