How would you shoot tight radius'

W

Wetstuff

I am not in the business but like good tools and have sprayed quite a number of things. I got myself in a corner and I cannot figure how to get out...

Board_rails.jpg


I have found a decent shot of clear will not only make my boards look tons better but seem to handle abuse better also. I have shot Euro 5100 on two so far.

The problem is I cannot shoot the top and bottom at the same time, so I get either texture overspray or a heavy tape line - both I would like to avoid. So I thought I would ask for help.

I did 'learn' one new trick: put masking tape on 'dry to the touch' clear and you will get some very interesting 'textured matte'. Thanks.

Jim/Maryland
 
Seems to me that a jig could be fashioned that screws to the skeg mount such that the whole board could be cleared at once, that's how I would want to do it, anyway. Otherwise you would do some fancy soft-edge masking, but it takes time and care, then you have to carefully buff the soft edge to blend it in. Oh, and you'll need SPI #915 Blending Solvent.
 
Sounds to me wetstuff you never wetsanded & buffed clear in the past.
You do know every show car sure as heck doesn't come out of spray booth looking like glass.. right?
I'd never post my pre cut & buff work but trust me..its not pretty heh. All that overspray you speak of sands right down & buffs to mirror finish.
 
C-C: The buggers are too long. My 'booth' is a 25' construction trailer. It has a roll-up door at the rear that I pull down when the mist has cleared (fan pulling). I can picture a rotisserie but would never be able to make one. I have a 24' rowing shell I shot outisde - that was 'fun'. Actually, it's all fun - a half decent result is worth the effort.

Right you are Eddie... I get nervous when it comes time to sand off what took me a lot of time to put on. It makes perfect sense that overspray would be the easiest to tackle. What's to lose - I can always reload and shoot again.

Thanks, guys. Jim
 
On guitars I shoot the edges first then try to stay at a 90 degree angle for top and bottom. Still have to cut and buff though.
 
Put a couple extra coats on planning on sanding them off. Wow you good if you dont cut & buff everything. Just avoid sanding edges much.
 
sand and buff is always the way to go. you can melt in the overspray with blending solvent to make it easier to sand and buff. if you prefer to not melt the overspray then you can try 3m smooth transition tape. that stuff works great
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I have a 12'er coming from OZ via Hong Kong and a 24' rowing shell to gloss up. Cheers. Jim
 
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