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How would you paint a hood?

#1
I have a hood ready for base coat and clearcoat. I will wet sand/compound etc. the clear (3 coats) on the top of the hood but just want to lay down one (maybe 2) real slick coat of clear on the underside and be done. I can hang the hood vertically, base coat it, then lay flat to paint the underside, then flip and apply 3 coats to the top (but may get over spray on the underside). Or, I can do the top first, then the underside and the over spray on the top won't matter. I don't think I can lay a slick coat of clear with the hood vertical. I'll be using a Sata 5000 Brp 1.3 for clear. I can heat the garage to 80+ if I need to dry the clear faster to get within the recoat window on the base.

I could base and clear one side at a time, then mask off and do the other side.

How would the experts do it?
 
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#3
Consider your environment. Laying a hood flat in a questionable room gives you a greater chance of having dust fall on it and ruin your clear. Alot more chances for dust to miss if its hanging.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
#4
Easiest would be to shoot the underside, wait and let the clear harden a few days and then mask and shoot the topside. If you use 2" tape and back mask it,(sticky side facing up with a inch or so overhang) it will leave no edge. If you are shooting a solid color then it's no problem which way it lays. If you are shooting a metallic I always lay it flat. (same orientation as it would be on the car) Pearl or candy you'd want to shoot everything together.
 
#5
shoot the hood Flat, (the way its sits on the car), believe it or not, I seen Doors shot Laying flat and hoods shot standing up and the paint didn't match, The Car was painted at the same time as the hood and doors, I don't know why, maybe somebody can chime in
 
#6
Thanks guys. I think I'll paint one side, then mask and flip over. Hopefully dirt/dust should be minimal. I'm using my third generation home made booth in my garage with a 15' x 42" wide tacky ceiling filter.
 
#7
What we did on a 65 Fairlane, this was the door but should be similar to masking the hood:

We had everything blocked and in sealer, then masked all the holes to the front side to keep any paint overspray off the outside skin. The face of the door skin was masked to within 1/8" of the door edge. Masking the front eliminates the overspray on an already blocked panel, and taping to within 1/8" gives good coverage and adhesion to the door edge.











Once paint was cured, about 5 minutes time to block out the 1/8" perimeter of paint on the door skin. Much less work than removing overspray. The flange and door edge was scuffed, then the rear side of the door had all holes taped, and the masking was taped up to the edge of the door skin fold on the backside for a good break point without being visible..


 
#8
I was going to hang the doors and paint the jams and outside at once. However, your method may work better for me. Is that 3m green tape you used?
 
#9
I was going to hang the doors and paint the jams and outside at once. However, your method may work better for me. Is that 3m green tape you used?

Yes, 3M green tape. On the doors, I only sprayed them flat as it was a solid color. Had it been metallic they would not be laying flat for painting.
 
#10
I know this post is year old but why not hang the door and paint the whole thing at once? Is it a dirt thing or do you get a better look laying flat? Just wondering.
 
#11
I always hang my hoods, I can't keep the dirt out laying flat and
I get a better finish that way because of less overspray laying back down on it.
 
#13
No, I usually start at the top and go down, I don't think it makes much difference though.
I sometimes even do vertical passes, going back and forth.