How not to spray "tiger stripe" metallic ...

2

2stroketurbo

I was hoping to get some advice. I'm having trouble with spraying a complex metallic. Over SPI black base coat I'm spraying a copper/gold pigment mixed into SPI UV clear.

Iwata LPH 400 @ 26 psi, 140 psi on wall, fan wide open, 2.25 to 2.5 turns out on fluid, silver cap. I've tried spraying from 3 to 8 " from metal.

The pigment stays suspended Ok, no problem laying it slick, verge of runs, but, the spray pattern seems to focus the pigment just in the center of the pass leaving tiger stripe lines. I can over come this with lots of overlapping passes and clear sessions but it's not right. I haven't tried lowering the gun pressure just because I 've had such good luck with laying it slick and don't want a bunch of peel. I am walking the entire length of the car.

Any ideas or tips ?
 
I'd treat it like a silver and back the gun up a bit farther and mist it on after you get coverage. I'd also narrow the fan a bit.
 
I don't use my Iwata LPH400 for metallic bases for that very reason.
And there's plenty of others on the forums that have complained about
the LPH400 about that very issue.
It's a great clear gun, but it easily stripes metallics.
It can be made to work, but I don't fight it, I have other guns
that never have the issue so my Iwata is only used for clear.
 
how thin does it make the pigment mixed in with the clear? you might need to dial in your fan and fluid more and give more of an overlay. maybe upwards to 75% overlay, like a candy.

i'm the opposite of some people, the lph is great metallics and pearls, i use the silver and purple cap depending on the base color. not so much for clear, imo. i use the w400 for clear.

in the hok manual, they give a good setup for the gun and application of candy, which i think will help here. i believe it is available online.

using an intercoat clear, like shine said, will help also..that way you aren't piling on the clearcoat, and it's easier to work with.
 
use another gun LOL. once i switched to sata 3k my struggling with metallics went away(motling). toughh metallics are a breeze with no drop coating with this gun.

i will say 26 at the gun is a little on the high side.. plus ur using the silver cap.. u need to spray at a lower pressure... about 18 psi. and use the slowest reducer u can.. or atleast 1 step up from what ur temp range calls for. but even then the planets have to fall in line for me to get great results on tough metallics. pretty bad when i can grab a 12 dollar hf gun and use it to drop coat and even out the mess the iwata made. the gun over atomizes it wayyy to much.. love it for clear and candies... hate it for base.
 
Thanks guys.

Dang and Bummer. I wanted to spray today. I thought it was just me or a LPH 400 gun setting. It sounds like the Iwata is not good for tough to shoot metallics.

I'm tempted to try my purple HF backup gun.


Hey,... I do have a purple basecoat cap for the Iwata, would this help lessen the tiger stripes ? I thought 26 psi was high, but it always works good there




(I need to start reseaching basecoat guns. Sata I've heard is good. Sounds like Sic really likes his )
 
2stroketurbo;5889 said:
Thanks guys.

Dang and Bummer. I wanted to spray today. I thought it was just me or a LPH 400 gun setting. It sounds like the Iwata is not good for tough to shoot metallics.

I'm tempted to try my purple HF backup gun.


Hey,... I do have a purple basecoat cap for the Iwata, would this help lessen the tiger stripes ? I thought 26 psi was high, but it always works good there




(I need to start reseaching basecoat guns. Sata I've heard is good. Sounds like Sic really likes his )
Click to expand...


try the purple cap... it works really slow.. u need to drop the pressure down to 14psi i believe. slower reducer. i didnt like the purple cap when i used it.

if u need to use the hf.. get the coverage with the iwata.. and just come back to even it out with the hf gun. it sounds dumb.. but its saved me.
 
The purple cap will work if the metallic is mixed into intercoat. I don't think it will work right with Universal, unless you over-reduce it quite a bit.

Actually, I think the problem will be solved by suspending the metallic in intercoat instead of Universal, lowering your pressure to 18-20, and maybe backing out to about 6-7 inches with the silver cap.
 
tests panels! i even use white poster paper to test on since i have an endless supply...
 
I have a friend that uses a LPH400 for bases and swears the higher pressure
like you are useing is the answer to striping.
He always srays at 25 to 26 PSI.
I just use my old reliable Astro HVLP for base, never ever had a problem
useing that gun. But it's a HVLP and I read somewhere that HVLP's do
base better whereas LVLP's do clear better.
I don't know, but that's how it's been for me.
Of course, I do believe, the gun you get used to is the one
that sprays the best. Some just make it easier than others.
 
i've sprayed just about every metallic through the lph400 and have never had any problems, if i did it was me or the gun might not have been clean. i'm talking about completly assembled all-overs, door jambs and all at one time. i'm at 20lbs at the gun. but this is base...not clear...if i'm clearing with the lph i'm up around 25-27 lbs. the purple cap is not going to help, since you are mixing with clear. it will help if you use intercoat instead. depending color/metallic i've been anywhere between 16-20 lbs on the purple cap, and it is SUPER slow.

though this debate will continue..everyone has their own style...which has a lot to do with what gun you are using.

but in this case...like others have said, using intercoat combined with a little more fan and fluid restriction is going to solve the problem.
 
Two problems, incorrectly adjusted spary gun and using the wrong product is what I think.
1) As Shine points out, use intercoat instead of UV.
2) If the center of the fan is applying more metallic, then that fan is out of balance.

Here is how I was taught to shoot Murano Pearl back in the day.

Put a large piece of paper on the wall.
Get the gun ready to shot as normal
Rotate the air cap so the fan is horizontal
Holding the gun steady and at your normal spraying distance and still - shoot a short burst of paint until it starts to run
The run should form consistantley across the width of the spray pattern.
If it runs in the middle and not the ends, open the air adjustment a bit and repeat the test.
If it does not run in the middle and only at the ends then close that air adjustment a bit and repeat the test.
A balanced fan will give a consistant run.

Now the fan is balanced

Another thing - be sure to overlap 50% and use intercoat clear as the carrier for the pigment. It will spray just like base coat, or darn near like lacquer.
 
i shoot metallic wet and even. i do not like dry drop coats. just asking for trouble plus it lightens the color. i have shot some of the worst metallics with the lph400 with no problem .silver cap pr purple cap.
 
crashtech;5891 said:
The purple cap will work if the metallic is mixed into intercoat. I don't think it will work right with Universal, unless you over-reduce it quite a bit.

Actually, I think the problem will be solved by suspending the metallic in intercoat instead of Universal, lowering your pressure to 18-20, and maybe backing out to about 6-7 inches with the silver cap.
Click to expand...


to me thats a pain in the ass, cutting with intercoat.. y should u even need to do that with a good gun? ... after i switched guns.. i dont even have to fuck with metallic anymore.. using -----@--------- silver house of kolor.. its practically straight coarse metallic.. no drop coat needed. sprays even and fine.

keep in mind my iwata was the first good gun i ever bought about 7 years ago.. i got a sata 2 months ago and i wont even touch my iwata for metallics now.
 
jeremyb;5896 said:
but in this case...like others have said, using intercoat combined with a little more fan and fluid restriction is going to solve the problem.
Click to expand...


y mess with that when a better suited gun handles it fine?
 
sik_kreations;5914 said:
to me thats a pain in the ass, cutting with intercoat.. y should u even need to do that with a good gun? ... after i switched guns.. i dont even have to fuck with metallic anymore.. using -----@--------- silver house of kolor.. its practically straight coarse
Click to expand...

Maybe you could go back and re-read the first post, he is suspending "copper gold pigment" in Universal clear. My suggestion was to use intercoat instead, but maybe you think using UC is fine? I'm not sure.
 
crashtech;5917 said:
Maybe you could go back and re-read the first post, he is suspending "copper gold pigment" in Universal clear. My suggestion was to use intercoat instead, but maybe you think using UC is fine? I'm not sure.
Click to expand...

i just read the title...

besides... im sure u agree.. any pearl/candy/midcoat is wayyyyyy easier to spray in basecoat clear then 2k clear.
 
to the original poster.. are you using paint with pearl products?
 
Sik which Sata did you buy, and to the op save yourself the trouble and SPI intercoat, awesome product and shop simplify life a bit
 
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