Help with choosing Eagle Abrasives paper

no. i think the problem is that the black bufflex grit isnt deep enough to make it through the micro thin film of water. i only get a sqft or two out of it. i know eagle gives the bufflex a 2000/3000 grit grade but thats not what i have found. the green bufflex is equal to 3000 trizact while black bufflex is equal to 5000 trizact.
 
I plan on buying 1200 yellow, Tolex and green Buflex and using your exact process. But for some of the budget insurance jobs I need a 2 step process any thoughts?
For a one step factory peel look I was thinking Tolex as eagle advertises it being able to hit the peaks and the valleys of peel without knocking down.
 
Good to know! I will need to pick up some Green Buflex than tomorrow and I know from some of your previous post that the green Buflex last a long time. I think you did a corvette and only used like 2-3 disks on most of the car.
 
Can I get a way with 1200 yellow followed by green Buflex than compound & Polish.
 
yes for insurance work and to keep some of the peel then skip the yellow film all together. tolex will work great if you are looking to keep peel but make that gm paintjob look more like a benz paintjob. if your just denibbing then just green bufflex will work great.
 
yes i did that today as a matter of fact. 1200 then green bufflex then compound with sonax and yellow foam finished will black foam and perfect-it ex polish
 
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I haven’t started sanding yet but how would you go about sanding the body lines that need sanding and buffed? Can the da be used at some point with the finer grits like green and black bufflex or should they all be addressed by hand?
Below are some pictures of what I am working with
 
On the tighter areas I use a soft flexible sanding pad and do by hand. if you have a 3” da they work well on smaller areas were a 6” will struggle to get at. otherwise I would do it all by hand.
I don’t sand to close to tight areas or edges that a rotor or dual action polisher cant reach at, or possibly burn an edge.
You can compound/polish those by hand if it’s
necessary.
 
well the sanding has started and my fears have eased, The Yellow Film works very good with plenty of control of the rate of sanding and lasts a suprisingly long time. I had no problems removing varing degrees of orange peel and even a few minor runs. I am running the da at 25PSI wide open, I have a 6" and 3" pad for it, I also have a small 2" DA and a 1" orbital denib.
I really like the 2" since these early coupes have allot of raised body lines and so many areas that are to risky to sand with a 6". I have 2,3 and 6 polishing pads to shine things back up. I bought the Flex 3" rotory, but have not used it yet. Its allot bigger and heavier than I expected though, bigger than my 4.5 grinders but with all these variable speed polishers, they seam to have larger bodys. I am sure because the rotors need a bigger OD for more torque at low rpms. I will use my B&D ELU for the 6" pads though

One last question, I really like the dry sanding is there any advantage to the wet sanding besides longer life from the tolex and buflex pads?
 
when using the tolex and Buflex, how do I know when to stop. I used the DA over a whole panel with the tolex dry and it looked good but it was tough to tell if all the 1000 marks were gone. so I took a iterface pad and tolex disc and hand sanded in a straight line to see if i could see pig tails. everything looked good but I did not clean the panel with anything just wiped. probably should have used some glass cleaner I guess.
 
Yes, wet the green bufflex and tolex last a very long time. Maybe 2 discs of each to do a whole car. As for knowing when enough is enough....thats the though part and only really comes with experience of the product. I think what you need to do is do a small area and buff it to see what you have. Then you will know if you need to go further with each grit or not in the rest of the car.
 
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Yes thanks Jim!
Finishing up on the 34 Chevy which I used 1500 yellow film and green Buflex.
 

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