hard clearcoat

I get where your going with that and its a good idea for something that needs a simple coating. I need some build though to cover and level out artwork then has to have a sanded and buffed finish. For that a regular urethane clear would be required.
 
Got ya, but I was meaning possibly spraying over built up & sanded clear as a final coat for the hardness factor.
 
Thats true but if whats under it is soft its still gonna print or mark. Whole paint film needs to be nice and hard
 
I know this clear gets hard after a few days. Made the mistake of letting it sit 4 or 5 days and it was tough to sand and buff. Gloss held up well and seemed to have some "body" to it. I had good luck with the durability of the Nason clear in the past, even though the solids seemed nonexistant. https://www.ebay.com/itm/353200358820
 
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i remember the imron clear we used in the early 70's was like concrete 0 chance of buffing after 48 hrs . i think the fleet is still that way .
 
i remember the old imron being hard. i didnt think you could buy that anymore though. even when i was using it, it was on its way out and they were pushing new versions of it.
 
What a brand of clear did ten years go vs. to are two different things.
In the last year and a have significant things have changed, and a lot of stuff is getting reformulated because of allocations.
Example:
Three months ago, a chemical rep came in and said this is an exact knock-off from China to the most expensive resin I buy, just that one resin I buy between 500 and one mil. a year, and it's been on allocation, but I've made do so far.

So then he says this company and this company is buying.
No sample allowed, so I had to buy a 55-gallon drum to test.
My testing did not come out right.
So I hired a company that specializes in breaking down products.
I sent a quart of mine and the new one and an 8,000 dollar check.
Three weeks later had my written report.
Long 2 hour conversation short, I said to the tester, off the record, if it were, you would you use say three drums of good and one drum of in a batch. NO.
What about a 5% blend to get rid of a drum? NO.
So-called one of the companies he said was buying and I gave the drum to him
Best money ever through away.,
 
Well thats a china product for ya and the results are pretty much as i expected when i started reading that lol
 
Tools, tires, appliances, auto parts, electrical supplies, home repair products, restoration parts, aftermarket auto repair panels, etc....
Made in China = junk
You might get a decent TV or microwave every now and then but it is rare.
And it is probably going to get worse...... elections have consequences.

Thanks for taking care of your business, employees, customers and reputation Barry!
 
Yeah that would be nice and hard and durable but this is going over artwork all done in automotive basecoat so one i dont know what kind of adhesion that has long term and im not sure of the clarity. It been 25 years since i have used clear gel and i remember it not being really super clear…..but maybe im wrong. I would need to do testing and everything first and honestly i dont hve the time for any of that anymore. I am so busy i just need to get them done asap when i am handed one
 
How about that pour on clear? Can't think of the names but it is for table/bar tops.
Seems they cover just about anything with it.
Edit: Bing search with "Deco pour" and there were a lot of choices. Epoxy clear and self level.
Did it only once on a mahogany boat table.
 
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Jim C said:
Yes that is epoxy. That is really super soft when it gets hot
Click to expand...
Too bad. So for interior use only. Never did see it on an outdoor table. Lots of restaurant tables.
That Cerakote M160 gets hard as nails but you would probably need a lot of coats. I only used it on polished metals and there was no sanding-recoating like when leveling graphics.
 
Yes and if its like the rest of their ceramic coats then it needs to be kept ultra thin. I have some of their chrome and black here. Its a dust on 2 coats and thats it. If tou do more it will fail. Not sure if the clear is the same type of coating or not.

you can use epoxy outside but it needs to be resin made for outdoors BUT its not necessarily an issue with it being outside. A wood table would have no problem but a fiberglass table is a different story. Fiberglass soaks up the heat like crazy. If you have one of these tables in the hot summer sun you would not be able to touch it without burning yourself. Thats the whole problem. Next time they give me one of these to do i think i am going to try that nason clear and see how that performs.
 
Envirotek has a polymer with uv in it . Not sure if it will soften in Sun .I've used it for years on interior wood on cars . Funny stuff . In Sun you can print it but as soon as it's in the shade it will get rock hard and slick .
 
Ahhh yes i have used that before many years ago. Yes gets very soft in the sun. Most epoxies i have used over the years do turn to almost a medium density rubber. They dont break down or fail ir anything like that. They just get soft then when they cool down they harden up again
 
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