had a bunch of runs, used a nib file, torn clear down to base small chunks how to fix

G

gerard143

So I sprayed the universal clear for the first time. 3 coats. Had several runs. Tried using a nib file for the first time. Worked good in a few areas, a couple other areas it actually torn some small chunks out of the clear. Down to the base coat. One area is about the size of a 3/16 drill bit. This area the base coat is still intact at this point. If I try and sand it smooth with surround area I am sure I will lose the base color. Not sure if I should just try putting a drop of clear in this area then sanding once its hardened and hope it blends well or what to do there? Edges of the chunk it tore out are rough and erratic so I worry it would still be noticeable even if I dab some clear in there.

Another area a bit bigger and it actually chunked down past the base color.

Question is how best to fix this? I plan to finish wet sanding as much of the dash as I can, but this is a molded plastic marine dash with tons of angles and corners and curves. So sanding the entire thing down and recoating with base then clear would be a major pain in the ass.

So can I do this.... can I wet sand dash in as many areas as I can including these damaged spots.... Then touchup those small spots with some base coat then re-clear the entire dash? Or will those damaged areas I hit with base color not blend well as I would essentially be spraying the base color over the dull out wet sanded clear. Hopefully you follow me on this.

I'll try to word it another way. Wet sanding clear on as much of the dash as I can aside from the crazy rounded edges and corners I can't buff. The damaged areas where the clear/color chunked out I could sand a bit more until they are flush with surrounding area. I would have to hit them with color again though. So seeing as the surround area is sanded clear coat, would hitting these small spots with color over this sanded clear, then clear coating the entire dash cause a messed up look in these repair spots. I worry it might not blend well as the repair spots will be color, the surround areas dull out sanded clear so when I hit this with fresh clear coat I have to imagine you are doing to notice this.

If there is some other better way please let me know, open to ideas on this. I can get photos tomorrow afternoon.
 
Here are some images. This are after just the nib file. Sucks the nib file did this. I have not done any wet sanding at all yet to remove the rest of the runs and orange peel.

First two photos are the first chunk with base color still intact. A close up, then zoomed away to show the piece I am working with and the general area the issue is in. The last three photos are of a different area, up close then zoomed out. In this area you can see the spot where it actually blew thru the base color as well.

Did the best I could with the photos on the iPhone. Doesn't focus that amazing on the closeups.
 

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I would sand the entire unit to dull the clear and then sand those gouged areas to feather them out. Prime and block sand till your sure the repairs are right, wet sand the areas with 600 and then blend your color and re-clear the entire unit.

Runs often take longer to cure because of the thickness and even using a razor blade is risky because of this very thing that happened to you.

Maybe one of the other guys will have a short cut repair method for you?
 
I was in the back of my box van for about a week after spraying. About 90 in there most days. Guess it wasn’t long enough. No UV on it in there either.
 
Next time you can use a razor blade to cut the top off the run. This will help the solvents get out.
 
Ya wish I could go back in time and undo this. I really don’t wanna repaint the whole thing. Like to just do a spot repair somehow. Hmmmm
 
The part will have visible defects if you don't fix it right by sanding and repainting, but if that's acceptable, just mix a tiny amount of clear and start dabbing it into the defects. It will take several applications to build to a level slightly above the surrounding finish. Then wait for the clear to cure, wet sand it smooth, and polish it.
 
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I wound up sanding it down and repainting it. This time I ignored the set the gun 2.75 turns out or whatever it recommended and just sprayed the way I am used to spraying. I got a lot less orange peel and only 2 runs. Last time I had about 25 runs.

I did have a question about sanding marks left after wet sanding and buffing. Started with 1000 grit, then hit with 2000, then used perfect it rubbing compound and their white pad, then machine polish with the black pad. The gloss is wicked and zero orange peel. However when you angle it I can see tons of circular marks from my sanding still.

Is the rubbing compound and white pad just not aggressive enough to take out those 1000 grit marks or something ?
 
2000 won't take out 1000 scratches without a lot of extra work. My rule of thumb is that half again more is the normal step in grits, so 1000 to 1500 is high as you should go. Most compounds won't take 1000 scratches out of urethane without extensive extra buffing.

Maybe you could try a spot with 2000 again and see if it helps.
 
ok. Good info. I created a new topic on the wet sanding issue a little bit ago too to dig deeper into it.
 
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