Going To Start A Paint Job Soon

66FBACK said:
I think my compressor will be enough. It's a two stage and I think it has either a 19 or 19.5 scfm rating. I don't have a dryer but I have two drop legs that will hopefully keep my air dry enough. I have a respirator that I used on my last job but it's pretty old so I'll probably buy another one.

The last paint job I did was in the same garage that I'll be using. I used a siphon gun and had no ventilation. The old Binks actually laid down a pretty smooth job. Needless to say there was a thick fog in there by the time I got done. The guy I got it from had painted his car the same silver blue metallic that I want (only in acrylic enamel) and if I remember correctly his paint came out pretty nice. I plan on using some fans in one door and try to filter the other door this time.
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Sounds like you have a plan.

The drops won't dry your air.
Lot of guys here using the Arrow dessicant filter. Me included and it works good. Last look it was about $135.
Zoro.com is a good source.
Something to consider depending on humidity in your area.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Sounds like you have a plan.

The drops won't dry your air.
Lot of guys here using the Arrow dessicant filter. Me included and it works good. Last look it was about $135.
Zoro.com is a good source.
Something to consider depending on humidity in your area.
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Here's how I have my airlines set up. The second picture is in the back of the garage and the airline goes up and over to the front. I used 3/4" ID pipe hoping that I would get a little bit of extra cooling over 1/2". I also sloped the pipe toward the drain points. In hindsight I wish I had used copper instead. My plan was that by going up and over that the moisture would have a better chance to cool and go down the drains that I have. I was intending on buying another filter so I'll check into the one that you mentioned.

There is a possibility that I could scrap my plan and have somebody else to put the final coats on it. I would do all of the priming and sanding. I have a friend that I haven't saw for a long time that has done quite a bit of painting. I don't know if he has done metallics or not but I'm thinking about checking with him. He likes to paint and maybe he won't charge a whole lot to just do the base and clear. I really hate to go that route because I wanted to do all of this myself but then again I'd hate to spend all that money and not turn out right.




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I'm going to order a gallon each of epoxy primer and activator soon. Will that be enough to cover my Mustang and have enough left over for a sealer coat?

Is two gallons of a good basecoat with reducer enough for three coats? Do I need more or less?

I'll be painting the jambs, under the hood, decklid and trunk area.

Danny
 
66FBACK said:
I'm going to order a gallon each of epoxy primer and activator soon. Will that be enough to cover my Mustang and have enough left over for a sealer coat?

Is two gallons of a good basecoat with reducer enough for three coats? Do I need more or less?

I'll be painting the jambs, under the hood, decklid and trunk area.

Danny
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I recently did my '02 Suburban and 1 gallon each of epoxy/activator was enough, so it should cover a mustang.

**I only used the epoxy, 2 coats 1:1 over factory clear, then a sealer coat over 2K regular build (which is where I did my blocking.) If you are going to do the blocking in epoxy, as some do, then you might need more, depends on how many rounds it takes.

***If you are going to shoot a reduced sealer coat, don't forget the reducer :) Slowest possible.

Also, 1 gallon of SPI base, mixed 1:1 with reducer (and the obligatory shot glass of activator!) was plenty to cover the Suburban.

Hope that helps.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
I recently did my '02 Suburban and 1 gallon each of epoxy/activator was enough, so it should cover a mustang.

**I only used the epoxy, 2 coats 1:1 over factory clear, then a sealer coat over 2K regular build (which is where I did my blocking.) If you are going to do the blocking in epoxy, as some do, then you might need more, depends on how many rounds it takes.

***If you are going to shoot a reduced sealer coat, don't forget the reducer :) Slowest possible.

Also, 1 gallon of SPI base, mixed 1:1 with reducer (and the obligatory shot glass of activator!) was plenty to cover the Suburban.

Hope that helps.
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That does help out a lot. I just didn't want to run out of base before I get all of the coats on. Since I last posted I've read that the light silver metallics are somewhat transparent so I might have to go more than three coats.

I've been going back and forth with blocking 2K regular build or just using all epoxy. The car is pretty straight. I had to put a lower quart patch on it and one other very small patch. I've got two Original Ford Tooling front fenders and an Original Ford Tooling hood. I'm hoping that they'll be pretty straight but you never know.

I used to work at a stamping place and did some metal finish work on BMW panels. These were very minor defects but I think by having done that I'll be able to go over the whole car and find most places that aren't 100% by finding them with a stone.

Thanks.
 
I've been doing lots of reading and watching videos but the only thing I have bought so far is a can of Rage Ultra. I'm planning on buying my SPI epoxy and 2K primers this week. I'm still trying to decide on which spray gun and base.

I found a gun that seems to be a very good price for what it is and I think I can get it for a little bit less than this one. It comes with a cup, gauge, 1.3, 1.5 and 1.8 tips. It gets good reviews and I think it would be able to do primers, base and clear with it. Would this gun and kit be adequate or do you guys still think I should step up to the LPH400. If I do talk myself into spending the extra money for the LPH400 which cap and tip would be best for both metallic base and clear? Silver, orange or purple. 1.3 or 1.4. I wouldn't be able to shoot 2K primer through the LPH400 would I?

I know you guys are going to say if I buy the LPH400 I could always sell it and get most of my money back. There's only one problem with that. When I buy tools I can't ever bring myself to sell them

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133710326849?epid=24045520099&hash=item1f21c1ac41:g:cz8AAOSw2OliFSTJ
 
Saw this today. I have bought from this seller without issue. $225 for an Iwata LPH400.

Paint gun

197420197421 I am done doing any painting. So here is one of my guns I had left. 275$ plus shipping.
www.pro-touring.com

Don
 
dhutton01 said:
Saw this today. I have bought from this seller without issue. $225 for an Iwata LPH400.

Paint gun

197420197421 I am done doing any painting. So here is one of my guns I had left. 275$ plus shipping.
www.pro-touring.com

Don
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Thanks Don. I signed up and I'm not seeing any way to contact him. I don't know if I'm not supposed to be able to or if I'm not seeing what I need to do.

Danny
 
Is there any negative to using epoxy only instead of 2K on top of epoxy when blocking? I know it'll take more time to dry before sanding but anything else?
 
texasking said:
No reason a novice couldn't do it. If you are shooting to build, induce overnight in a covered cup, shoot with a 1.8 or so, 3-4 coats, 30 minutes between coats. When spraying this thick, expect to wait 48 hrs. before it sands best, depending on temperature.
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That's what I was needing to know. Thanks.
 
Dean Jenkins said:
Heads up that SPI epoxy can develop "craters" if sprayed on too heavy, or with the wrong gun settings. It is fixable, but a drag (ask me how I know.) Search on "craters" to find out more. It has been discussed at length in other threads.
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You're not doing much for my confidence you know. LOL

Really though, thanks for the heads up. I did search and now know (I think) what to try and do to keep it from happening to me. I'll be using black and gray epoxy. I found where you had problems with your Suburban but were able to overcome it. It looks like it turned out great in the end.
 
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66FBACK said:
You're not doing much for my confidence you know. LOL

Really though, thanks for the heads up. I did search and now know (I think) what to try and do to keep it from happening to me. I'll be using black and gray epoxy. I found where you had problems with your Suburban but were able to overcome it. It looks like it turned out great in the end.
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Wish I had the talent to draw cartoons. I would draw a newbie painter (modeled on me!) suited up with a paint gun in hand, ready to shoot, with hands shaking and knee's knockin saying "I think I can, I think I can, I think I can. This is going to be awesome . . . or a total mess"
 
Should I finish the primer up in 400 dry or wet sand it with 600 after the 400? I plan on wet sanding the sealer coat with 600 before the base.

When wet sanding scratches do still need to do the cross hatch pattern using a small soft block?
 
If you are sealing, 400 is fine, but personally, I would rather wet sand with 600 than dry sand with 400. I have always wet sanded in straight lines, horizontally on side panels, for instance. It makes it easier to see if there are any heavier cross hatched scratches that didn't get removed. Block with 320 dry, then wet sand with 600 is my normal procedure.
 
texasking said:
If you are sealing, 400 is fine, but personally, I would rather wet sand with 600 than dry sand with 400. I have always wet sanded in straight lines, horizontally on side panels, for instance. It makes it easier to see if there are any heavier cross hatched scratches that didn't get removed. Block with 320 dry, then wet sand with 600 is my normal procedure.
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So if I go from 180 blocking to 600 wet that would be ok? No steps in between? I already have the 600 ordered but not the 400.

Thanks, Danny
 
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