Getting air to home "booth"

jcmeyer5

Having fun learning!
I am still in the infancy of my restoration (still getting metalwork and base epoxy done). I expect I will be into color next summer. Right now I am running an aftercooler and filter (after compressor, before tank) on the compressor. I have another filter after the compressor, but before the 30' of copper 3/4 line. I have built a fairly substantial desiccant dryer that will be used for the booth. After the desiccant dryer, I plan a Motorguard filter to catch anything and everything else. I will have a small desiccant filter inline with the gun as an indicator of the main dryer's health. Frankly, with as much painting as I will (not) do, that desiccant dryer should not need changed for a long time. Air is already pretty dry coming out of the 2nd filter now, so should be in good shape.... but considering a hillbilly ice bucket cooler as well. Why not?

Anyway, the plan is for the dryer and the Motorguard to be booth dedicated. This means I have to pipe (hose preferably) air over to them. I will have approximately 15 feet between the end of my copper and the inlet on the dryer. I want to avoid quick-couplers until I get to the gun (and maybe even there). The only problem I see is getting a hose that has a fitting that turns on the end so that I can screw it into the copper. Once I screw in one end, screwing in the other end will unscrew the screwed in end. I can get a whip section with a swivel MNPT (or female), but only up to 5 feet in length. After that, I would need to get an adapter to splice it to some more 3/4 hose.

Unless you guys have a better solution?
 
Tractor Supply has a fitting thats 3/4 FNPT on each end that used as a coupling with one end that rotates freely until tightened. Also you can get a Hydraulic hose made with an end that swivels.
 
My thoughts are scrap the motor guard, it is of no use after the desiccant dryer and will do nothing but kill the scm.
 
I would run copper pipe and have a drop just before the booth with a valve on it. This will ensure any condensation formed in the 30' will have a place to collect and be drained off.
Once in the booth a wall regulator/water separator should be all you need. The air has been dried and filtered twice before entering the booth, another filter inline to the gun is overkill and will restrict airflow.
 
I am still in the infancy of my restoration (still getting metalwork and base epoxy done). I expect I will be into color next summer. Right now I am running an aftercooler and filter (after compressor, before tank) on the compressor. I have another filter after the compressor, but before the 30' of copper 3/4 line. I have built a fairly substantial desiccant dryer that will be used for the booth. After the desiccant dryer, I plan a Motorguard filter to catch anything and everything else. I will have a small desiccant filter inline with the gun as an indicator of the main dryer's health. Frankly, with as much painting as I will (not) do, that desiccant dryer should not need changed for a long time. Air is already pretty dry coming out of the 2nd filter now, so should be in good shape.... but considering a hillbilly ice bucket cooler as well. Why not?

Anyway, the plan is for the dryer and the Motorguard to be booth dedicated. This means I have to pipe (hose preferably) air over to them. I will have approximately 15 feet between the end of my copper and the inlet on the dryer. I want to avoid quick-couplers until I get to the gun (and maybe even there). The only problem I see is getting a hose that has a fitting that turns on the end so that I can screw it into the copper. Once I screw in one end, screwing in the other end will unscrew the screwed in end. I can get a whip section with a swivel MNPT (or female), but only up to 5 feet in length. After that, I would need to get an adapter to splice it to some more 3/4 hose.

Unless you guys have a better solution?

I know this reply is a little late but, it may help someone else looking to solve this problem.

There is a company called "Dayco" who manufactures and sells, in my opinion, the best jumper hoses for air compressors. I use their 3/4" jumper hose on my compressor system. They have the swivel male or female NPT ends. You can order any length or diameter size. These jumper hoses are rated for 500psi continuous use, with a burst pressure over 2,000 psi, and chemical resistant.

You can find them on ebay or I can post up a direct phone # and email address. I have their business card in my garage.

ebay link.........
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Dayco-Co...515319?hash=item468eeb9837:g:LwkAAOSwqMhZyn0G
 
I know this reply is a little late but, it may help someone else looking to solve this problem.

There is a company called "Dayco" who manufactures and sells, in my opinion, the best jumper hoses for air compressors. I use their 3/4" jumper hose on my compressor system. They have the swivel male or female NPT ends. You can order any length or diameter size. These jumper hoses are rated for 500psi continuous use, with a burst pressure over 2,000 psi, and chemical resistant.

You can find them on ebay or I can post up a direct phone # and email address. I have their business card in my garage.

ebay link.........
https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-Dayco-Co...515319?hash=item468eeb9837:g:LwkAAOSwqMhZyn0G
I wonder what the Temperature rating is for the hoses, especially between the compressor head and the tank
 
I wonder what the Temperature rating is for the hoses, especially between the compressor head and the tank

It's (-40F to +212F) but, as far as I know, it's not made for that type of application, between the compressor head and the tank, unless those temps fall under the advertised listing.
 
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