GEO vs. Vaper guns

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PUNISHER VETTE

I bought both the GEO(undercoating) and the Vaper 2.3(primer)

I was using the GEO for the first time today to spray some primer with glass micro beads mixed in(despite the mixed views on it) for some heat barrier before I apply some undercoating on my '69.

1. I got a TON of runs. I assume i'm applying it WAY too thick but since this stuff wasn't undercoating maybe I can never adjust the GEO to spray it without runs? I switched over to the Vaper and was able to get it to spray the stuff....although it was slow going. Had much better results with the Vaper so I stuck with it and finished what I had mixed up. I'm tempted to try the GEO again, after I sand the runs smooth, but I am worried i'll just repeat the same mistake.


2. How thick is the undercoating? I want to get it as SMOOTH as possible and was told I can reduce it(10%?). But can I also spray it through the vaper I wonder...?

Don't laugh! lol. I learn most of the time by my screw ups.






Don't mind the mess.... I'm headed out to clean it up now.
 
the 2.3 is too big for regular priming. but it can be turned down. i use it for epoxy that has induced overnight . for what i do a 1.4 is too small . my favorite primer gun is a 2.0 on a pressure pot.
the geo is for bedliner/undercoat . the 2.3 will shoot heavy primer like slicksand fine. but i dont think you will ever get any primer shot with the geo without sags.
 
But will the 2.3 shoot reduced undercoating? I have hopes I can get it smooth but with the GEO I have high doubts I can get it anywhere close to smooth for my liking.

I sprayed some primmer with the 2.3 this morning that had set up over night. It definitely laid down much thicker than a freshly mixed stuff.
 
Shines right. The Geo is way to much for regular primer. I shoot SPI 2k thru an lph 440 with a 2.0 tip.

There is no way that I'd think without a TON of reduction (10% is not enough) for the bedliner to run thru a 2.3 tip. Its about like maple syrup in consistency . I myself do plan to try and reduce some back but its gonna take some spray outs and such and it'll prob be a while, a couple months, before I get back to that project.
 
i'm not sure on how far you can reduce bedliner if that is what you are using. call barry .
 
Yeah. I'll have to call them and ask... Pretty sure on the phone when I was ordering the kit the sales guy said something about 10%. But maybe if I speak with a tech guy he'll say NO...or sure...reduce it all you want! lol

Also. I didn't know much about reducers so I just got the slow kind.... not knowing that was for 95+ degree temperatures.


If I use the slow on a 70ish degree day will that hurt things or just make it dry slower? I don't mind waiting for it to dry but don't want things never setting up because it's too cold for the reducer.
 
Well Barry said only reduce 5-10%...

BUT even if I reduced it 50% he said it doesn't spray through his 4.0 tipped gun. So my idea of using my 2.3 is out the window :(

I just need to be 3ft away from panels he said to get it to lay on smooth enough...and watch for runs...which I found out about yesterday.
 
Are you looking to get it super smooth or just not rough?

The reason I ask is that if you want it really smooth, maybe multiple layers of epoxy would be better protection for you. Easy to touch up as well.
 
I don't need it to look as smooth as just regular epoxy. But getting the bedliner as smooth as the epoxy/micro beads would be nice.

I guess I assumed the bedliner was much stronger than just epoxy. I'm not sure why I'm using it... Just seemed like a good idea lol.
 
Well... Maybe it was a huge mistake but I used the 2.3 once I mixed up some of the undercoating and saw it wasn't all that thick. I think it came out pretty good? The underside stuff is much blotchier mostly due to not being able to spray up very well with the 2.3. It even covered up my runs decently with very little sanding done on them this morning.




 
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