Frame Rehab - Galvanize?

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>RP<

I am a complete novice on metalworking and painting, but have been hobby wrenching since I was a kid. I am in the process of restoring a rusty Scout II. The frame is fully boxed on the sides and front (front cross-member not removable), but the rear two horns are open due to removing and fabbing a new cross-member. There are several holes in the frame for very minimal access.

I had planned on having the frame hot-dipped galvanized by a local shop for $250. My thought process was that it would get all of the rust out of the inside and nooks and crannies and lay down protection inside and out. Further, that it is pretty inexpensive relative to the time and materials that I would otherwise expend. In going this route, is there a way to coat the outside? Mainly for looks, but also some protection for the zinc (reportedly slowing the zinc oxidation). I have spent many hours searching on this subject and have gotten nowhere. Some say all paint will flake off of galvanized due to saponification, that latex paint will hold (here is my skeptical face), you have to prep it a certain way, etc. Right now, I am leaning toward leaving it bare galvanized.

After talking to SPI customer service (awesome guys, by the way), I am researching epoxy primer for the frame and skipping the galvanizing. The outside is pretty straightforward. However, there is no way that I can do any meaningful prep on the inside. Heck, there are acorns and leaves in there that will take some serious gymnastics to remove. I would think the best I could do is a mere wiping down, but leave any surface rust.

Should I look at trying to get SPI epoxy on the inside with either a DIY wand sprayer or sponge-on-a-string on effectively unprepped metal? Or, maybe that Eastwood internal frame coating? Cost is pretty high on the Eastwood, but it is supposed to be usable over unprepped metal. I fully realize that the Eastwood product is nowhere near as good as SPI epoxy on a properly prepped surface. But, is SPI epoxy on a completely unprepped surface a waste of time and materials?

Thank you very much in advance for any help.
 
I'm a little curious to know how they would get the inside of the frame clean enough to ensure that the zinc bonded to the steel?
Epoxy will stick to properly prepped galvanized, so I was also wondering, why not both?
 
Thank you for the reply. The part goes through several dips designed for cleaning and de-rusting. The below is just a generic link. I don't know the exact process my local guy uses. As I understand it, zinc won't stick to anything but clean steel.


Galvanized followed by SPI epoxy on the outside would be ideal. But, reading up on painting galvanized has me scared that nothing will stick. I believe saponification is a killer. From memory, anything oily (maybe other stuff) reacts with the zinc and forms soap (literally) between the metal and paint. Also, the fresh zinc goes through phases as it ages. One of the phases involves a powdery coating that forms as the zinc oxidizes. I did read that washing zinc with an acid like vinegar before painting with latex will aid adhesion, but I would think that is a big no-no with SPI epoxy. Apologies that much of this info is from my foggy memory. I have read hundreds of pages on it and didn't bookmark it all.

After rereading my first post, my question was a little fuzzy... You are saying that prepping galvanized just like steel would get epoxy to stick?

My worst fear is having the epoxy peel off in areas and looking like dog poop. I'd much prefer bare galv to that. This restoration is a hobby done in my free time, so I may have a fair amount of time before final assembly. I could epoxy a small, hidden part of the galv frame and see how it holds up. Or better yet, I am well under the minimum weight for dipping, so I could include some scrap steel and test it off the truck.

Thanks again very much for sharing your knowledge and experience.
 
I'm sure that SPI epoxy will stick to galvanized that has been sanded with 80 grit and wiped down with #700 wax and grease remover. Priming should occur immediately after sanding. I hope @Barry can verify this before taking it as gospel, but we've done it with no issue.
 
Galvanealed steel will have much better adhesion than galvanized steel. I've seen galvanized stuff peel even after sanding with 80 grit. Cannot speak directly to applying SPI Epoxy over 80 grit scratched galvanized but I have my doubts as to whether it would stick. All OEM's now use galvaneeled steel but none apply coatings over galvanized. If galvanealed is offered as an option that would be far superior to galvanized if you plan on coating it.

Before you actually coat the frame it would be wise to test a piece of galvanized sanded with 80 grit and then coated with epoxy. After the epoxy has setup bend it back and forth and see how well it (SPI epoxy) adheres. Cause once you do it (galvanizing) there is no going back.

Another option would be getting the frame cleaned and derusted then flooding it with epoxy (inner frame) followed up with several coats on the outer frame. Drill holes for extra drainage. Would be bulletproof for many years.
 
Your link shows a caustic dip, and I would be a little concerned about that. The caustic soda will indeed get inside the frame, but another dip in fresh water will not flush out the frame, it will take high pressure water flow to flush it out.

66 Mustangs had a coating on the rocker panels that I thought were galvanized, but maybe it is galvanealed??? At any rate I sanded and cleaned it and put epoxy on and had no problems.
 
Your concerns about adhesion
Is legit as most epoxies will have some of the different galvatech they will not stick too.
With the SPi epoxy, I have not found one yet, but there are many forms out there.

Second, the dipping process is the same as OEMs and will rinse the inside as well as outside just by force of entry in the water and the exit of the piece being pulled out of the vat.

These frames have been done before with spi, and all I say is 80 da clean with 700-1
Dry as you apply, and when done, let frame set an hour before you 2 to 3 coats of nonreduced epoxy.

Screw the vinagar, and if you want to test, I can let you know how many days to wait but a waste of time in my book.
 
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