Floor Pan Repair

True! But why are you worried about noise when they aren’t inside the cabin? :)

Don

Supposedly because it will carry less road noise into the cabin. I’m more concerned with figuring out what roll on or spray to put on the undercarriage.
 
Supposedly because it will carry less road noise into the cabin. I’m more concerned with figuring out what roll on or spray to put on the undercarriage.
I use bedliner. I like SEM urethane bedliner because it has a shiny finish and doesn’t hold dirt like Raptor.

Don
 
At the local auto paint store they only advertise rubberized coating for the undercarriage and didn’t have many options or people working there today. I imagine the products that require a Schutz gun are better than the spray can stuff.
I’m wanting something that is sound deadening, heat insulating and chip resistant. I’ve asked around but haven’t got a straight answer as far as what is the best stuff to use but I’m probably over thinking it.
Someone told me to use gravel guard because it would be easier to use if I need to weld anything to the underside of the floor pan. (I imagine brackets for emergency brake cables or who know what he was referring to)
 
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Just did floor pans on a Mustang. Scuffed and sprayed black epoxy on both sides before installation, then spotted epoxy over welds. Bedliner inside wheelwells would be best option after that, as Don suggested.
 
The SEM 2k epoxy seam sealer I used said to paint over it within 24 hours but from your experience can you wait 48 hours? Do you use red scotch brite pad to scuff it?

Also, regardless of the sheen of your paint if you paint with flat clear, will the paint appear flat or a combination of the two sheens?
 
Epoxy typically gets into crevices that seam sealer doesn't (as well). So for any pinch weld seams or lapped factory seams like you'd see in a floor pan seam, I'll mix up some epoxy and just hand brush the areas until the flow checker drips on the bottom side indicate coverage. Then clean off the drips once the epoxy has set a bit, and go back with your seam sealer after epoxy has set up sufficiently. I've also been told I'm anal retentive, so take that into consideration … ;)
“A-Retentive” comments are just what I’m looking for. Wasn’t sure that SPI Epoxy could be brushed on, but from what you describe, it’s just the issue I’m looking at! My exhaust-replacement in an ‘88 T-Bird has evolved/ blossomed/ morphed/ Frankensteined in to a full-blown interior (floor pan) and undercarriage rust-war! Failing factory seam-seals have led to some annoying crevices rust. Yes, it drove a couple of salty VT Winters! Have I said yet how much I hate salt???
I don’t have access to a spray system, so will brushed on SPI Epoxy primer stick as well as sprayed on, (a-retentive prep work assumed)?
 
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