Fire vs Epoxy

aviator8

Promoted Users
I have my whole car in epoxy and have been doing body work. I am having an alignment issue on a door. I was hoping to be able to tweak this out but the hinges are shot and need to be redone. In hindsight I should have done this first but that's too late now. I have been trying various methods get them out but I am at a point where I need to apply heat if my next tool doesn't budge them. I will make a deflector to protect the door skin and stay focused directly on the protruding hinge. I have to assume this will compromise the epoxy and I will need to strip it and re-coat. Any experience with epoxy torture tests with open flame? How far back would I need to strip?
 
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I have my whole car in epoxy and have been doing body work. I am having an alignment issue on a door. I was hoping to be able to tweak this out but the hinges are shot an need to be redone. In hindsight I should have done this first but thats too late now. I have been trying various methods get them out but I am at a point where I need to apply heat if my next tool doesn't budge them. I will make a deflector to protect the door skin and stay focused directly on the protruding hinge. I have to assume this will compromise the epoxy and I will need to strip it and recoat. Any experience with epoxy tourture tests with open flame? How far back would I need to strip?
I would think that the epoxy will tell you as you sand or scrape it back. It will probably gum up the sandpaper until you get beyond the point that it got burned. I would sand to bare metal until it is clearly feathering and well bonded still.
 
Not a worry.
8 or 9 years ago, I discovered a broken brake line holder on my rear axle.
This rear end was a first-year 9" ford uses with a 28" spline.
I had epoxied three coats sometime ten years before I put in new leaf springs.

So found the line holder and, with a 3-inch rolok disc ground out an approx 1x2 inch spot.
With my mig set at the highest setting and slow wire speed could not make a weld; researching forums, I followed their advice, and it worked perfectly.

I took a rosebud and got steel red hot and bingo my mig welded perfect.
To my surprise there was only a quarter inch frying at the edge of epoxy, 180 by hand all smoothed out and spotted in two coats.
 
Not a worry.
8 or 9 years ago, I discovered a broken brake line holder on my rear axle.
This rear end was a first-year 9" ford uses with a 28" spline.
I had epoxied three coats sometime ten years before I put in new leaf springs.

So found the line holder and, with a 3-inch rolok disc ground out an approx 1x2 inch spot.
With my mig set at the highest setting and slow wire speed could not make a weld; researching forums, I followed their advice, and it worked perfectly.

I took a rosebud and got steel red hot and bingo my mig welded perfect.
To my surprise there was only a quarter inch frying at the edge of epoxy, 180 by hand all smoothed out and spotted in two coats.
Thanks Barry.
 
In my home experience, when I've burned epoxy from welding, it only bubbles up or actually burns near the weld. The rest of it stays well adhered (as it should, otherwise no car would be able to sit in direct sun, ever). I just sand away whatever wants to come off easily and the rest is feathered in. I'm talking only within a quarter to half inch of the weld.
 
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