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Fiberglass pockets

#2
If it were me, I'd have to grind those out. The inside of the pockets are glossy, imho nothing is going to bond there if you just wipe something in them. Looks like the whole panel is prob full of air pockets, the ones you don't see, the air will expand in the sunlight and heat and produce pimples and bumps in the paint job. I would use poly flex after grinding.
 
#3
When I worked at Maule Aircraft in the 70's the raw fiberglass cowlings would come in like that. We wiped them with lacquer glazing putty! :D
That generation Maule was known for sketchy paint jobs.
 
#4
Sometimes taking an old knife and beveling out the edges of the holes while scratching up the interior of the holes can give enough grab for a good poly putty. The whole area should be sanded slightly lower than the surroundings before putty so that the putty looks like a continuous patch when finished, the edges of the pinholes should no longer be visible at all or they might map.
 

Barry

Paint Fanatic
Staff member
#10
Wow all the vettes I have done over the years, that looks bad.
Personally after heat gun and sanding I would do 2 coats epoxy and next day VPA due to strength.
Other option is VPA without epoxy but just not sure with matting showing as never tried that before.
 
#12
Wow all the vettes I have done over the years, that looks bad.
Personally after heat gun and sanding I would do 2 coats epoxy and next day VPA due to strength.
Other option is VPA without epoxy but just not sure with matting showing as never tried that before.
I was wondering about VPA over epoxy. I thought might be better over roughed up glass ?
 
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