Evercoat Rage Ultra

El Toro

Member
Hi all. Any one using Rage Ultra body filler and having pin holes ? Used the old Rage for years with not a lot of pin hole but with Ultra just seams like it has more ? I mix on plastic mixing sheets not on card board. There claim is no finishing putty needed. I love how easy it sands .
 
Hi all. Any one using Rage Ultra body filler and having pin holes ? Used the old Rage for years with not a lot of pin hole but with Ultra just seams like it has more ? I mix on plastic mixing sheets not on card board. There claim is no finishing putty needed. I love how easy it sands .

I recently switched to the Ultra from the Gold and found it far superior. I have not noticed any increases in pin holes. Could you be trapping air when you are mixing it? I try to fold mine into itself in a way that prevents air from being mixed in.

Whipped body filler is not good :-((

John
 
I've used Ultra since it came out. My experience it's like any other filler in that the amount of pinholes is relative to how thick you are trying to apply it. Thin coats are usually pinhole free. Really important to push down and swipe over it several times. That usually results in nearly no pinholes.
 
Thanks guys yes I may be wipping it a little been in such a hurry lately with a lot of work and dead lines to meet. Did go on youtube and watch the Evercoat video about how to mix. Boy the filler has come a long way since the days of Ditzler 999 or what ever it was! Chris do use finishing putty as a last coat?
 
How do you guys mix your filler when you get a new can? Every can I've ever bought had resins on the bottom of the can I mix in with a paint stick and let the can settle back out for a day or two.

I've been using rage extreme and have tried the ultra but I felt I couldn't mix the ultra and not have air bubbles where as the extreme I've not had a problem with.

Any advice?
 
I use a new paint stick and just keep stirring it up from the bottom and keep mixing until I can not see anything different in the mix. Swirls of something different still coming up, keep stirring.
 
I bought one of these years ago. It does a good job of scraping down the sides and mixes quicker being larger than a paint stick.
COS1000.jpg
 
Plastic yellow mixing stick, as I have, should be available at any quality auto body filler material supplier. Well worth a few bucks.
With any filler can you first want to mix the whole container with a stick scrubbing the sides & bottom . This is needed mainly to not use up the ( honey) portion than separates & rises to the top. Otherwise the last portions of filler are much stiffer & less creamy. Evercoat does sell the honey additive separately which you can mix a little back into filler if needed to make it mix & spread better.
Mixing can of material too fast as well as when mixing portion with hardener definitely will add to pinholes.
Extra thickness, as Chris mentioned will definitely add pinholes, primarily because you can't use as much pressure on thicker applications to make the air bubbles pop out..
Many times I like evercoat metal glaze for final skimcoat. It's both thin & more solid at the same time as opposed to fillers in gallon containers & great for filling pinholes.
 
Plastic yellow mixing stick, as I have, should be available at any quality auto body filler material supplier. Well worth a few bucks.
With any filler can you first want to mix the whole container with a stick scrubbing the sides & bottom . This is needed mainly to not use up the ( honey) portion than separates & rises to the top. Otherwise the last portions of filler are much stiffer & less creamy. Evercoat does sell the honey additive separately which you can mix a little back into filler if needed to make it mix & spread better.
Mixing can of material too fast as well as when mixing portion with hardener definitely will add to pinholes.
Extra thickness, as Chris mentioned will definitely add pinholes, primarily because you can't use as much pressure on thicker applications to make the air bubbles pop out..
Many times I like evercoat metal glaze for final skimcoat. It's both thin & more solid at the same time as opposed to fillers in gallon containers & great for filling pinholes.
The last pouch of Evercoat Metal Glaze that I have has not been that creamy as before I wonder if they changed any thing ? And yes I mix it well between my hands before I dicspence it..
 
Haven't noticed a difference in metal glaze, but different batches could be a little different.

Also just to mention, I sometimes use evercoat Z-grip for where I need a thicker application of filler. Costs less than rage extreme, etc & is a little harder to work than the higher cost evercoat products, but I think it's a better starting coat filler for less perfect applications where at the least you'll absolutely need a 2nd & possibly 3rd or 4th application to sand smooth.

I generally don't use evercoat glaze unless I think I really need it or just want another superlight skimcoat without all the extra sanding of a regular filler. On this subject, I more & more have been using evercoat g-2 to final block areas. All a matter of different opinion , method , requirements , & mood of the day though
 
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Good feedback. I have heard good things about Z grip. Is there a reason, other than cost, why you feel it might be a better base than Ultra?
 
How do you guys mix your filler when you get a new can? Every can I've ever bought had resins on the bottom of the can I mix in with a paint stick and let the can settle back out for a day or two.

I've been using rage extreme and have tried the ultra but I felt I couldn't mix the ultra and not have air bubbles where as the extreme I've not had a problem with.

Any advice?

Mix it like you are churning butter. Use the paint stick but go up and down with it instead of churning it. Don't pull the stick all the way out just move it up and down within the filler. Takes a little longer but you are not putting any air pockets in it that way.
 
I guess this thread "rage ultra" would be a good place to ask abou the rage ultra extra. Its rage ultra but with slower kick times. Anyone have any experience with it? I have read a little about it, but I dont remember if it was on this forum or somewhere else.
 
Good feedback. I have heard good things about Z grip. Is there a reason, other than cost, why you feel it might be a better base than Ultra?
It's not better, it's just much cheaper. I think it might be lighter weight as well. I used to do the same thing as jlcustomz when performing a very large repair, but for us, those are fewer and farther between, so we stopped carrying the Z-Grip. Say you are working half a bedside, that can take a quart of filler in one coat easily. With premium brands, that's $10-15 worth of filler in one go, but with Z-Grip, it's about half that.
 
Yep, by better on rougher panels, I meant it costs less, but also it can be spread a little thicker without as much air pockets. Quality once sanded would be comparable to some more expensive fillers, but it takes more skill to work, so NOT a better overall filler.
 
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