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Euro 2020

#1
I've been spraying Universal for a number of years. I wanted to try Euro to compare and see if it is something I wanted to use on some daily driver stuff. I'm always doing something for friend or family and Universal is kind of overkill. I sprayed Euro for the first time last week and, to me, sprays a lot different than UV. Do you guys that spray a lot of Euro mix 4:1:1? or some other ratio? It worked OK for me but I had to really hammer it on, I sprayed very wet to get the look I wanted. I did get what I wanted but in comparison, if I sprayed UV that way, it'd be on the floor. I don't want to "over apply" the clear. No issues, no solvent pop, no draw in after a couple of days.
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
#2
I like 4:1:1 with the Euro. Sometimes I'll go a little past 1 part reducer. Sometimes especially in temps aproaching 80 and above I'll add an ounce(per RTS quart) of the polyurethane retarder. Never really had to hammer it on like you said. Maybe our perceptions are different.What gun are you using? I found it to be a very easy to spray clear.

Here are a few pics of some collision stuff I did with Euro2020. The orange Jeep was the first time I used it. 4:1:1 with 2ounces per RTS quart of Poly retarder Over 100 degrees in the booth that day and it turned out perfect. The WRX (front end and doors) was the 3rd or 4th I think. Again really hot, added some retarder and laid down super nice. No buffing. I've never had to buff anything I've sprayed with the Euro2020 (collision work). Cut the fan off and it'll flow on out. I think I sprayed 3 coats on both.
IMG_20160721_191008165.jpg
 

Attachments

#3
For what it's worth, I have sprayed it mixed 4:1 using a Tekna Copper 7E7 1.4 tip and not had any problems with it laying down. It does appear to be toward the thick side when applying but runs or orange peel haven't been a problem. On hotter days I will mix the last coat 4:1:1.
 
#4
Same here I spray Euro a lot thru Sata 5000 rp 1.3 mixed 4:1:1 and like Chris will go up to 4:1:2. Just keep playing with it great clear and you can make the clear do what you want it to do by diff. reducers and activators.
 
#5
I like 4:1:1 with the Euro. Sometimes I'll go a little past 1 part reducer. Sometimes especially in temps aproaching 80 and above I'll add an ounce(per RTS quart) of the polyurethane retarder. Never really had to hammer it on like you said. Maybe our perceptions are different.What gun are you using? I found it to be a very easy to spray clear.

Here are a few pics of some collision stuff I did with Euro2020. The orange Jeep was the first time I used it. 4:1:1 with 2ounces per RTS quart of Poly retarder Over 100 degrees in the booth that day and it turned out perfect. The WRX (front end and doors) was the 3rd or 4th I think. Again really hot, added some retarder and laid down super nice. No buffing. I've never had to buff anything I've sprayed with the Euro2020 (collision work). Cut the fan off and it'll flow on out. I think I sprayed 3 coats on both.
View attachment 5193
SATA 4000 RP 1.3 I'm spraying a tailgate today. I'm going to swap to 1.4 needle/nozzle. Your's look nice. Mine turned out fine, it was just a little work where I've dialed in UV and with the gun/pressure/mix and I have it where it almost sprays itself:)
 
#6
I like 4:1:1 with the Euro. Sometimes I'll go a little past 1 part reducer. Sometimes especially in temps aproaching 80 and above I'll add an ounce(per RTS quart) of the polyurethane retarder. Never really had to hammer it on like you said. Maybe our perceptions are different.What gun are you using? I found it to be a very easy to spray clear.

Here are a few pics of some collision stuff I did with Euro2020. The orange Jeep was the first time I used it. 4:1:1 with 2ounces per RTS quart of Poly retarder Over 100 degrees in the booth that day and it turned out perfect. The WRX (front end and doors) was the 3rd or 4th I think. Again really hot, added some retarder and laid down super nice. No buffing. I've never had to buff anything I've sprayed with the Euro2020 (collision work). Cut the fan off and it'll flow on out. I think I sprayed 3 coats on both.
View attachment 5193
Cars look great. What size tip are you using?
 

Chris_Hamilton

Trying to be the best me, I can be
#7
SATA 4000 RP 1.3 I'm spraying a tailgate today. I'm going to swap to 1.4 needle/nozzle. Your's look nice. Mine turned out fine, it was just a little work where I've dialed in UV and with the gun/pressure/mix and I have it where it almost sprays itself:)
Keep playing around with it and your settings you'll find that will hold true for the Euro as well.

Cars look great. What size tip are you using?
Thanks '68, I'm using a Sata 5000RP 1.3 tip for all clears. Roughly 30 psi at the wall regulator, have no idea what it is at the gun as I don't use a gun mounted regulator and mines not digital. Fluid: 1 1/2- 1 3/4 turns out (from fully closed). 75% overlap. Also use Prevost high flow fittings on the hose. Works well for spot, panel, and overalls.
 
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#8
I love the euro. I had only been using UV for the past few years and my jobber gave me a gallon of it one day to try. Loved it. I spray it out of either a 5000 rp or an Iwata lph400,both 1.4's, same guns I spray UV with. Honestly I prefer it over the UV. Personally I find it to spray more evenly than UV with less urethane wave when doing multiple coats on a resto, and once you dial your gun in and play around with it you can really go to town with it. I sprayed 6 coats of it on the last car we did and the depth and clarity of it is just as nice as the UV, following the same precautions as UV clear concerning flash times and such , the euro in my eyes is just as good, but seems to have a slightly better gloss to it, after cutting and polishing the euro is even more lovely. Only downside to the euro is the ease of cut and polish window. UV buffs up so well even after months of cure time, you have to really get on the euro quickly as after a week or so it is much more time consuming. after much experimentation I like to block sand 24 hours after last coat with temps kept up throughout, than let sit and compound and polish the following day.
 
#9
Update....Well I screwed up. I use a gun mounted (IWATA) regulator on my clear gun and I do not on my base coat gun. I don't really look that closely, I grab the gun with the regulator on it, identifying it as my "clear gun". Well in haste after the last full tear down and cleaning, I put the regulator on the wrong gun so my first time spraying the Euro was with my SATA 4000 HVLP that I have set up for base. That was the issue.

I sprayed two repairs yesterday, one with the correct SATA 4000 RP and the other with my "pet" IWATA W-400. Both three coats and both absolutely beautiful. Mixed 4:1:1 maybe 1.25 on the reducer. The biggest thing was the way it looked today, after 15-16 hours there was no sign of pinching or shrinkage. I really like it. Still like UV but seamed a little less shrinkage with the Euro but could just be in my mind or the circumstances.

Do you guys that use it regularly, do you spray 2 or 3 coats? How many coats is too many? 3 coats was a lot slicker that the OE finish, way slicker.
 
#10
Most of the general collision I will spray 2 coats 3 coats on higher end collision work. Everyone sprays different and I use Sata rp 1.3 tip.
 
#11
Update....Well I screwed up. I use a gun mounted (IWATA) regulator on my clear gun and I do not on my base coat gun. I don't really look that closely, I grab the gun with the regulator on it, identifying it as my "clear gun". Well in haste after the last full tear down and cleaning, I put the regulator on the wrong gun so my first time spraying the Euro was with my SATA 4000 HVLP that I have set up for base. That was the issue.

I sprayed two repairs yesterday, one with the correct SATA 4000 RP and the other with my "pet" IWATA W-400. Both three coats and both absolutely beautiful. Mixed 4:1:1 maybe 1.25 on the reducer. The biggest thing was the way it looked today, after 15-16 hours there was no sign of pinching or shrinkage. I really like it. Still like UV but seamed a little less shrinkage with the Euro but could just be in my mind or the circumstances.

Do you guys that use it regularly, do you spray 2 or 3 coats? How many coats is too many? 3 coats was a lot slicker that the OE finish, way slicker.
I don't think its in your mind, I agree with you. The difference in shrinkage vs UV to me has been very noticeable, the euro doesn't seem to shrink at all comparing the 2.., could be because its a bit lesser solid and gasses out faster and is made to harden up quicker wheres as UV is meant to stay softer for years of polishing., I'm not 100 percent sure but I have noticed the same thing. Cars that I have done in all UV, after cutting I let sit in the sun for a day or two, than polish..than back in the sun for a few weeks before repolishing and you can almost watch the shrinkage happen. I have used UV for years, love and still use it all the time, however I must say I'm incredibly impressed with euro and I've seriously been considering making that my permanent clear, that being said I hesitate because Ive used UV for so long and know what to expect down the road where Ive only been using euro for the past few months.

I always do a minimum of 3, on an all over or resto, usually 5 or 6.
 
#12
I don't want anyone to think I'm diminishing the value of Universal clear. I sprayed it for years and it is the best product on the market for UV protection, there is no other product that buffs like it, day two or year two. And the clarity and shine after buffing is second to none. BUT, for the jobs that I need to spray, not buff, and deliver, it will probably be Euro 2020. It's two different products, both great and both thankfully from SPI.
 
#16
If you download the Tech Manual it will describe the purposes and different applications for each clear.
UV is great for show cars as it can be buffed repeatedly whereas Euro Clear will harden with age and buffing becomes very difficult.
If I am restoring a trailer queen UV would be my choice but for a daily driver the Euro Clear gets the nod.
 
#18
Both of these clears are excellent and you can make Euro do what you want it to do ( more control ) in my opinion. I fine the UV will stay softer and maybe not the best for the quick collision work.