Epoxy usability with adhesion promoter

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Mazdaboy

Promoted Users
Im getting ready to paint my bumpers and wanted to see if the epoxy is comparable with adhesion/flex promoter. If not do i just spray paint/sealer right over the epoxy.
 
comparable or compatible? Compatible for sure, but I don’t think comparable. I’ve still used adhesion promoter on plastics that float in water (shave a small sliver off and see if it floats).

If it floats promote. The spray epoxy soon after. Proceed with your paint as you normally would.
 
I think you might want to detail the procedure you wish to use. Adhesion promoter is used only on bare TPO and polypropylene plastics prior to priming. SPI epoxy is compatible with this process.
 
Sorry, yeah I meant compatible. Im not sure the plastic type im asuming its pp but not 100%. My idea was sem adhesion promoter on the bare plastic, then epoxy, sand, seal with epoxy, and paint. This is the way ICAR taught it but I dont know if there is anything im missing.
 
adpro and epoxy work fine together. just remember that adpro not being 2k will soak up solvents and epoxy is a good solvent barrier. if adpro has any trapped solvent in it then adhesion will not be 100%. i have had cured paint peel off in sheets when using adpro. its not because there is something wrong with the adpro, its that the adpro isnt dry due to spraying on it too fast with not enough flash. just be sure you give plenty of flash to each coat of the epoxy.
 
First identify the plastic. It's marked on the back what it is. No sense in assuming anything as it makes a big difference what type of plastic it is.
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clubairth said:
First identify the plastic. It's marked on the back what it is. No sense in assuming anything as it makes a big difference what type of plastic it is.
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to add to this, look on the back side. the plastic type usually looks something like >pp< or >pa6+abs<. if its not marked then you can do the float test but for the most part you can simply do a solvent test. take a clean rag and put some acetone, lacquer thinner or reducer on it. wipe the back side. if the rag bites in to the plastic or softens it in any way then no adpro is needed. if it does not soften then i typically use promoter.
 
Jim C said:
adpro and epoxy work fine together. just remember that adpro not being 2k will soak up solvents and epoxy is a good solvent barrier. if adpro has any trapped solvent in it then adhesion will not be 100%. i have had cured paint peel off in sheets when using adpro. its not because there is something wrong with the adpro, its that the adpro isnt dry due to spraying on it too fast with not enough flash. just be sure you give plenty of flash to each coat of the epoxy.
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Is it the adhesiom promoter flash time I should worry about or the epoxy flash time.
 
Mazdaboy said:
Is it the adhesiom promoter flash time I should worry about or the epoxy flash time.
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Both. Time is on your side in these processes. If you are using urethane sealer, you have a hard time limit, but not so much with epoxy.
Well, adpro has a maximum time before recoat, don't let it sit overnight, for example, but 30-60 minutes would be great.
 
as crash said...BOTH but most adpro's flash really quick, like acetone quick, so i think most people have less to worry about with that stuff. i think the epoxy or whatever anyone puts over adpro is more of the concern. any paint that goes over the adpro that doesnt tend to breath really easily is just more critical. what i mean by that is..... basecoat for instance flashes off easily. it doesnt lock up and seal solvents in it. epoxy, clearcoat and single stage for instance tend to kick off and once they do, solvents can be trapped and take a long time to come out. no need to overthink it and maybe i am making you worry for nothing but some people tend to hammer things on with little flash. adpro is not your friend to those instances. as crash said, time is on your side. dont rush it and you will be fine.
 
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