Epoxy Primer "Spatter" Question

yes after i blast parts i will hang them in the spray booth and basically douse them with either 710 or 700 until its dripping onto the floor then blow the part dry. basically a light rinse. is it needed?.....in most cases probably not. just a blow off and epoxy and 99.9% of the time your probably fine but i do it anyway most of the time.
 
I always wash whatever I'm intending to blast and epoxy really well with Dawn and hot water. Get it clean before you blast, then I just blow it off with high pressure air and go straight to epoxy.
I think that is the key, get it all clean before blasting, and don't reuse the media. If you are blasting metal with oil or grease on it, then the grease could get blasted over and on metal that was already blasted, such as corners.
 
That is a good point as well. My compressor puts out 13 CFM at 40 PSI and that it what my gun calls for. I checked the tech sheet before I started and it stated 1.4 or 1.5 is acceptable for the epoxy.

I honestly tried to research as much as possible so I wouldn't make a stupid mistake but here I am after making a stupid mistake :mad:.
Wouldn't call it a stupid mistake don't beat yourself up. There are a few good things going on here. The first is, u already saved money buy doing this project yourself. The 2nd is., as mentioned a light scuff or sanding and another round of epoxy and all your troubles are gone.
 
I would like to say thank you for everyone's suggestions and words of encouragement. I had a couple of hours after work last night and I scuffed two sections that were extremely bad with 180 and resprayed, unfortunately the red Scotch-Brite did not cut it since the lint was so deep. I was extremely impressed how easy the epoxy was to sand. The end result was much better this time around, now I just need to practice my technique to reduce the orange peel. I increased my gun pressure from 28 to 30 PSI which is the max for the gun, my next adjustment will be to decrease the fluid control one turn in.
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The end result was much better this time around, now I just need to practice my technique to reduce the orange peel.
i have a bit of experience with the devilbiss startingline gun- a 1.3 for base/clear and 1.8 for primer. with the 1.3 i could get base to lay ok but clearcoat- couldnt spray without OP showing up. the 1.8 primer gun was no different. primer was always OP. the startingline guns dont atomize the product good. fluid control set at optimum, optimum air pressure, fan pattern good- it didnt matter how much dinkin around i did with the adjustments- it didnt change the fact that the guns dont atomize good.
when that was explained to me and i picked up a copper tekna, i REALLY saw just how good at atomizing product the startingline wasnt.
 
i have a bit of experience with the devilbiss startingline gun- a 1.3 for base/clear and 1.8 for primer. with the 1.3 i could get base to lay ok but clearcoat- couldnt spray without OP showing up. the 1.8 primer gun was no different. primer was always OP. the startingline guns dont atomize the product good. fluid control set at optimum, optimum air pressure, fan pattern good- it didnt matter how much dinkin around i did with the adjustments- it didnt change the fact that the guns dont atomize good.
when that was explained to me and i picked up a copper tekna, i REALLY saw just how good at atomizing product the startingline wasnt.
Thank you for this information. I know the Starting Line is a cheap gun but I figured since it was given to me by a family member and this being my first time painting I would be the weak point in the equation, you know the old saying "its only as good as the weakest link". I played with the PSI adjustments for about for about 20 minutes last night and I swear the atomization didn't change at all unless I went to like 36 PSI and the spray pattern was crap at that point.
 
best gun i have found to date for spraying epoxy is a sata 4000 hvlp with a 1.5 tip. not sure what it is about it. the 1.5 maybe flows a little more and the softer airflow of the gun keeps from blowing craters into it, not sure but it works really well.
 
Thank you for this information. I know the Starting Line is a cheap gun but I figured since it was given to me by a family member and this being my first time painting I would be the weak point in the equation, you know the old saying "its only as good as the weakest link". I played with the PSI adjustments for about for about 20 minutes last night and I swear the atomization didn't change at all unless I went to like 36 PSI and the spray pattern was crap at that point.
I would be playing around more with your fluid adjustment as you're probably putting too much fluid down. Screw your fluid control all the way in and spray your pattern on some masking paper on the wall, holding the trigger for about a second. Let back your fluid out to the point that you just get a good fully formed cigar pattern. You'll be able to atomize your epoxy better if you have less fluid coming out.
 
I would be playing around more with your fluid adjustment as you're probably putting too much fluid down. Screw your fluid control all the way in and spray your pattern on some masking paper on the wall, holding the trigger for about a second. Let back your fluid out to the point that you just get a good fully formed cigar pattern. You'll be able to atomize your epoxy better if you have less fluid coming out.
When testing the spray pattern I noticed that you can "throttle" the flow of the fluid. Should I be testing the pattern with the trigger wide open? It was dumping a ton of fluid so as you recommended I will try reducing the flow. It just seemed all the tutorials I watched everyone had the fluid control wide open.
 
I suppose "some" people have it wfo and "throttle" the fluid.
I'm not/can't. I like a setting with the trigger fully pulled and paint with a consistent pass speed assuring consistent Coverage and overlap. Holding,squeezing,manipulating,articulating a spray gun is hard work and if I happened to squeeze too much because of one or more mistakes in any of these "processes" is usually not good.
You may notice sometimes in video or pictures of test shots on the wall or elsewhere. There is a Good Reason why for them. Screw up there First..... "OOPPPS, the Cap was turned horizontal". That's always a killer.
I watched vids of painters scurrying about flipping,flopping, and wonder....
Everyone has a "style" which suits Them which is Learned by Doing.
Only "way" to be a Good painter is Doing It.
As you Do,the trail of mistakes and failures gets fainter. Never ends,but easier to fix.
And "fixing mistakes" is what makes you really Good.
 
The 30 psi max is to be EPA compliant and while I would never advise anyone to go against any federal letter agency's guidelines ( EPA, DNR, DOT,ATF ect) upping the pressure is not going to make the gun turn into a pumpkin in your hand. In the tech manual Barry has a really good set of instructions on adjusting a paint gun. Try following his guidelines and see if that doesn't fix most of your problems. Orange peal is too much fluid that hasn't been atomized enough by air. Either cut the fluid or up the pressure.
 
Kinda like having to drive 55 MPH back in the Day.
Government says so and you abided accordingly as upstanding citizens.....
 
The 30 psi max is to be EPA compliant and while I would never advise anyone to go against any federal letter agency's guidelines ( EPA, DNR, DOT,ATF ect) upping the pressure is not going to make the gun turn into a pumpkin in your hand. In the tech manual Barry has a really good set of instructions on adjusting a paint gun. Try following his guidelines and see if that doesn't fix most of your problems. Orange peal is too much fluid that hasn't been atomized enough by air. Either cut the fluid or up the pressure.
I know its not going to turn into a pumpkin haha, what I did not know is if there were internal seals in the gun that would be damaged going above 30 PSI.

I read the write up by Barry about adjusting the gun, it is a very good read. I followed it to the T with the exception of the fluid control, that was my mistake. Every tutorial I watched had the fluid control wide opened. Now I've learned and will defiantly adjust moving forward.
 
I know its not going to turn into a pumpkin haha, what I did not know is if there were internal seals in the gun that would be damaged going above 30 PSI.

I read the write up by Barry about adjusting the gun, it is a very good read. I followed it to the T with the exception of the fluid control, that was my mistake. Every tutorial I watched had the fluid control wide opened. Now I've learned and will defiantly adjust moving forward.
You don't need to be defiant about it, just dial in your fluid. :0

And I promise your orange peel will get better.
 
Just wanted to thank everyone for the help and suggestions, it came out much better the second time around. No lint, less orange peel and I am getting more comfortable with the gun. Lesson learned, do not wipe sandblasted metal.
 
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