Epoxy primer over some other primer

B

borna428

Promoted Users
Hello all,
Sorry if this is a little off topic. A few days ago I stripped a patio furniture and applied Ospho followed by Rustoleum professional primer and ready to apply oil based paint on it.
However, I just finished a panel that I sprayed with SPI epoxy primer and have some leftover. I was wondering if I can spray the leftover on the furniture that is already has the Rustoleum professional primer on it for added protection or that is not something recommended?

Thanks

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Barry said:
Yes after 24 hours will work.
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oh great, so at least my SPI primer is not going to get wasted, since is already mixed.
One question, So I have Rustolum oil based primer which was done almost 48 hours ago, I can spray the SPI right on top of that. Then Can I spray Rustoleum oil based enamel paint on top of the SPI primer the next day?

Striped metal -> ospho -> Rustoleum primer -> SPI primer -> Rustoleum oil based paint

Since ospho is covered with the Rustoleum primer and is dry, should not interfere with the SPI primer?

Thanks
 
It will go over it but was the ospho neutralized?
If not, it's not lasting, and your primer is the weakest point, and it will come off just a matter of when.
The epoxy is excellent but not a miracle worker.
 
Barry said:
It will go over it but was the ospho neutralized?
If not, it's not lasting, and your primer is the weakest point, and it will come off just a matter of when.
The epoxy is excellent but not a miracle worker.
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It seems Ospho and Rustoleum primer are very compatible with each other even when is not neutralized. I have a piece still very solid after 5 years of use. However I know the Ospho has to be neutralized before epoxy primer is used on it, but wondering if a few coats of the Rustoleum primer block the affect of the ospho on the epoxy primer if it wasn't neutralized?
Yes agree the weakest point is the Rustoleum primer.
 
5 year example, you have trashed all chemical facts.
I would not waste my time putting epoxy over it.
 
If that stuff latest 5 years over an acid film, why would you want to waste money and create extra work?

I'm not going to tell you what you want to hear to sell a kit of a product; there plenty of jobbers,
Private label sellers and salespeople that will
And don't care what happens first time a rock hits it.
 
Barry said:
5 year example, you have trashed all chemical facts.
I would not waste my time putting epoxy over it.
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LOL, well I was using the epoxy on something else and since I have this left over decided to use it on the furniture that I prep a few days ago instead of getting it waste and dry on me or dispose it. I never planned for using epoxy primer on top of Rustoleum primer lol
But now that I have it why not.
 
borna428 said:
LOL, well I was using the epoxy on something else and since I have this left over decided to use it on the furniture that I prep a few days ago instead of getting it waste and dry on me or dispose it. I never planned for using epoxy primer on top of Rustoleum primer lol
But now that I have it why not.
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Of course you can it's your stuff, I think the guys are just presenting the facts and how it's kind of a waste of time. I mean I can paint over 80w-90, but just because I can doesn't mean I should :)
 
Raymond_B said:
Of course you can it's your stuff, I think the guys are just presenting the facts and how it's kind of a waste of time. I mean I can paint over 80w-90, but just because I can doesn't mean I should :)
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Yes, very very true and agree with you. it is just part of my curiosity that gets me into troubles :)
 
borna, I was just thinking I wouldn't put an oil based household paint over automotive epoxy. Epoxy can be tricky and many things won't stick to epoxy just as a general rule (imho) so that's where I was coming from. I would probably make a mess and have to sandblast it all back off :D
That said, Barry did say that oil base would prob go over the epoxy ok so you might could get away with that aspect of it, but regardless what rustoleum says, anything over non-neutralized ospho could and probably will end up trouble, and that's just from a lot of practical experience here on this forum. Too bad you don't have some previously prepped automotive or bare furniture bits laying around to use the leftover epoxy on. I try to keep a couple auto headlights sanded and polished out handy for when I spray clear, I usually have just about enough left over to shoot a pair.
 
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Slofut said:
borna, I was just thinking I wouldn't put an oil based household paint over automotive epoxy. Epoxy can be tricky and many things won't stick to epoxy just as a general rule (imho) so that's where I was coming from. I would probably make a mess and have to sandblast it all back off :D
That said, Barry did say that oil base would prob go over the epoxy ok so you might could get away with that aspect of it, but regardless what rustoleum says, anything over non-neutralized ospho could and probably will end up trouble, and that's just from a lot of practical experience here on this forum. Too bad you don't have some previously prepped automotive or bare furniture bits laying around to use the leftover epoxy on. I try to keep a couple auto headlights sanded and polished out handy for when I spray clear, I usually have just about enough left over to shoot a pair.
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I agree with you. I am new to epoxy and restoring a 66 VW as a hobby. I like this SPI epoxy so much that I like it to spray it on anything that I get my hands on. But got to control my temptations :D
 
I felt like that in the 70's with Imron. I painted everything with it, painted an upright piano black with it and it looked like a million bucks. I envy you with the VW, I had a few including a 64 and 66 1300 beetles. Show us some pics!
 
borna428 said:
Yes, very, very true and agree with you. it is just part of my curiosity that gets me into troubles :)
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There is nothing wrong with "curiosity."
But before you waist, any money buying something, post a question
And know the person your listening to.
Some of the worst products out there have the best advertising ads, but they cater to the do-it-yourself folks who may not have a clue, as they know no regular body shop would ever buy the product.

Also, the only people I know that say you don't need to neutralize acid are companies that make nothing but buy stuff and slap their label on it.

Just think how much the auto manufactures could save if they skipped neutralizing all their panels and restoration shops hours that could be saved.
 
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