Epoxy over lizard skin

ksungela

Member
I'm about to finish painting the cab for the pickup truck I'm building. I plan on using Lizard skin (both sound control and ceramic) on the inside of the firewall and on the underside of the floor. I'm thinking of a top coat of black epoxy over the Lizard skin. Has anyone done this? How were the results?
20180521_162117.jpg
 
I know this is an older thread, but I have the same question. How long should it take it to cure? I know there is alot of variables, but just generally speaking. Also before recoating the epoxy, I'm guessing you should lightly scuff the lizard skin? Thanks for the help.
 
About 24 hrs. for lizard skin to cure at say 70 degrees and not very high humidity. The inside corners take the longest. I had to wait 48 hours for the first coat because it was hot and humid. Second one took 24 hrs. because the temp and humidity had dropped. I put 2 coats on total. You can wait longer if not in a rush. No need to scuff the lizard before epoxy. I didn't. Here's the result. First pic is after epoxy on metal, then black epoxy over the lizard skin.

20180617_192108.jpg

20180621_155257.jpg
 
Yes good info thank you! I am planning on using Lizard Skin as well, just to confirm your order of operations you did:

1. Epoxy bare metal
Cure
2. Lizard Skin Sound Control
Cure
3. Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation
Cure
4. Epoxy
Beer :)
 
i go to the extreme on cure time. it is latex so it takes a long cure to get the moisture out unless it is july in texas. even then i give it a week or so .
 
i started using it right after it came out. talked a lot with bob about how to use it and what to watch for . i remember hime telling me to let it cure fully before top coating it. you dont want water coming out under your top coat. dont rush it .
 
there is a reason it is latex based and very heavy bodied . mill build up is important for it to do it's job .
 
Interesting stuff
it really is. that is also a magnified picture of the spheres, no problem mixing in paint and spraying thru a 1.8 for me, but we also spray the .006 flake thru that plastic PPS gun. They are so small its hard to believe they are hollow inside.
 
One more crazy question guys. I have put down my epoxy tonight. How long should I let the epoxy cure before I can add the lizard skin as a topcoat? Usually I like to do my next step over the epoxy in 24 hrs, except poly, but wanted to ask since the Lizard skin is a latex based product. Thanks for the help
 
Hello. I am resurrecting an old thread but its the closest I've found to answering my question.

If Lizardskin has cured for a long time (weeks, months), does it need any scuffing before applying an SPI epoxy topcoat?

I'm working my way through my Mustang. Whole underside, interior, and trunk covered in SPI epoxy. I just put a good couple coats of Lizardskin sound control on the inside of my quarter panels (in trunk), over SPI epoxy. It has been curing for 3 days. I was about to topcoat the Lizardskin with SPI epoxy as-is, but wondered if I'd be better off waiting to apply epoxy until closer to time of final paint topcoat application in trunk (weeks, or months from now) to avoid scuffing and recoating the epoxy.

BTW I read a lot on this forum and appreciate the contributors. I couldn't be painting my own car without it.

Thank you,
Matt
 
The ceramic beds reflect the heat back to its source so they are supposed to go on the heat side (exterior firewall) to keep the heat out of the interior. If you paint them on the inside, they only keep the heat in the interior.
 
I spoke to the folks at LizardSkin and they claim that their product has some micro texture to it (in addition to the large texture that you can obviously see). And it doesn't change over time; no closing recoat window. So I'll consider that as the texture needed for epoxy, without additional scuffing.
 
Back
Top