Epoxy Over Filler and Bare Metal

O

Outlaw

So first coat epxoy has been applied to bare metal. Now filler has been sanded and blocked. I sprayed epoxy primer over the filler and bare metal. It looks like the filler is soaking up the epoxy. Does this mean I did not get enough on or is that normal? Do I need to apply more epoxy or will the 2K primer cover everything up? I plan on another coat or two of epoxy after my 2K has been blocked.
 
I always do epoxy over bare metal,body work, then two coats of epoxy, it will soak up a little over the filler, no worries. I then block the epoxy just because I found out how much more you can block out with a few coats of epoxy, then I go to 2k primer, block, seal with epoxy, then base, clear.

I see no purpose to put two more coats of epoxy over the 2k primer. at this point it should be straight. If you are going to do that you could just use epoxy instead of 2k for the second round of primer. It's just going to be slower drying, perhaps a little less fill.
 
Thanks Chad, The reason for the final one or two coats of epoxy was cause once I get the 2K primer blocked and ready for base coat, it will be stored in a heated shop for the winter until I can get back to painting next summer. I have some fitting on the front sheet metal I have to catch up on before I move into painting the exterior of the cab. The cab is what Im working on now. I want to get the interior and firewall painted so I can get the cab back on the frame and fit the doors, do the wiring, insulation and things like that thru the winter.


If it was not for going on hold between now and next summer, I would be doing same as you are doing. I did read some interesting posts about the SPI sealer opposed to the SPI Epoxy reduced for sealer, I might try the sealer when I get there.
 
Don't block the primer until you are ready to paint. Just apply your final coats of 2K and put it away. That way you will have a freshly sanded surface to work with when the time comes. Old sanded surfaces have to be washed with Dawn and a scuff pad at the very least, it's better if they are fully re-sanded also, which increases the labor requirement with no benefit.
 
Thanks Crash, If its inside a heated shop it should be fine in primer then?
 
Outlaw said:
Thanks Chad, The reason for the final one or two coats of epoxy was cause once I get the 2K primer blocked and ready for base coat, it will be stored in a heated shop for the winter until I can get back to painting next summer. I have some fitting on the front sheet metal I have to catch up on before I move into painting the exterior of the cab. The cab is what Im working on now. I want to get the interior and firewall painted so I can get the cab back on the frame and fit the doors, do the wiring, insulation and things like that thru the winter.


If it was not for going on hold between now and next summer, I would be doing same as you are doing. I did read some interesting posts about the SPI sealer opposed to the SPI Epoxy reduced for sealer, I might try the sealer when I get there.
I have one I have been working on that has been stored inside a trailer for the last two years in 2k primer, just pulled it back in to work on it, and everything looks great. Hoping to paint by winter.
 
Outlaw said:
Thanks Crash, If its inside a heated shop it should be fine in primer then?
You will be more than fine.. I see no issues at all.. I have many jobs that have sat in 2k primer for years before paint.. You know it's fully cured that way. lol.
 
Back
Top