Epoxy orange peelplease help!

[RandyR]

I use an Iwata LPH400 with a 1.4 tip to spray epoxy primer.
Mixed 1:1.

With the gun empty, back the fluid knob out far enough so you can squeeze the trigger full open. Then holding the trigger full open turn the knob in until you feel it start to push on the trigger. Release the trigger and turn the fluid knob 1/2 turn in.

Adjust your PSI at the gun with the trigger pulled full open. 26 PSI is plenty with my gun.

Now test spray on a masking paper taped to the wall. Hold your gun the proper distance from the paper and squeeze the trigger full open for 1 second. Look at the pattern, it should be full with tiny droplets. If it appears too wet, turn your fluid knob in another 1/2 turn and try again.
If droplets are too big, increase your air pressure slightly.

Thanks, man! I recently bought a barely used LPH400 but haven't used it for epoxy yet. Maybe I'll give it a try today. I have used your fluid adjustment methods on the old Central Pneumatic primer gun that I've been using, though. For whatever reason lately, I've been getting frustrating results. I really appreciate all the troubleshooting efforts from you guys!! It's probably something simple and stupid that I'm overlooking.
Obviously, I'm not a professional painter, just a hobbyist trying learn more and accomplish a more professional looking paint job on my truck. I've painted a couple of cars in the past but it was long before I was familiar with SPI. I was introduced to SPI products 12+yrs ago through Shine and a few other guys on the Club Hotrod forum. I'm committed to getting this figured out so thanks again for all the advice! Will keep you posted.

 

[crashtech]

After all the other options are exhausted, it could just be that it's really stinking hot and it's not going to lay out like it does when temps are normal. As long as the build is occuring, if you are sanding, the orange peel is not the end of the world. If it was being used as a sealer, then you'd have to break out some 895 reducer and maybe even a splash of retarder to deal with 100° heat.

 

[MJM]

After all the other options are exhausted, it could just be that it's really stinking hot and it's not going to lay out like it does when temps are normal. As long as the build is occuring, if you are sanding, the orange peel is not the end of the world. If it was being used as a sealer, then you'd have to break out some 895 reducer and maybe even a splash of retarder to deal with 100° heat.

Absolutely, I've been using SPI extra slow reducer this summer when the temps have been high 90's, low 100's with excellent results.

 

[RandyR]

Ok Gents, I switched over to my Iwata lph400 and got 2 good coats on the cab today. It sprayed pretty nice even in the 95 degree heat. I’m encouraged. Thanks a ton for all the help!!! I’m sure I’ll need more!