Epoxy hazing after curing over night

[RosharonRooster]

Hello all. Just a question here. I sprayed my entire floor pan on a rotisserie. Some areas bare metal and some areas were reproduction floor pans that were scuffed. I plan to do the floors with raptor liner soon so im not really concerned with this im just looking for a reason. I had some black epoxy and some hardener that expired about 2 months ago in oct according to the label. I sprayed 2 coats on floor pan. Looked great as usual. This morning i go to move the car and some areas look hazy and grayish if that makes any sense. Would the 2 month past expiration of the hardener cause this? It looked a little darker than usual. The coating itself feels and covered fine and like i said i plan to raptor over it. The temp was about 75 when i sprayed and dropped down to about 60 over night. I didnt take a picture today but here is one from yesterday

 

[W.A.R.]

Cool temps and overnight humidity were most likely the cause.

 

[Barry]

As temps go down the Humidity goes up, could have actually caused two more problems than the slight blushing.
White spots from 2 to 12 inches in size and the 60 Degree is boarder line of the epoxy never fully curing.

If the epoxy inside the can was also not up to room temp when sprayed, you may have real problems with curing if it ever does.
The test will be try to scrap a spot off too bare metal in four days.

 

[Barry]

I just looked at the picture and looks fine, also activator fine if stored right.
Would I assume you are applying raptor for cosmetics only?
The epoxy, when fully cured is going to be 4 to 5 stronger and way more chemically resistant.

 

[mitch_04]

I just looked at the picture and looks fine, also activator fine if stored right.
Would I assume you are applying raptor for cosmetics only?
The epoxy, when fully cured is going to be 4 to 5 stronger and way more chemically resistant.

If you apply epoxy over top of Raptor, or other similar product, does that "lock it in" and increase it's strength?

 

[Barry]

Like anything, the weakest substrate is best your going to do.
Probably a lousy example, but like putting epoxy over lacquer, may help a little but still a big gamble.

 

[RosharonRooster]

I just looked at the picture and looks fine, also activator fine if stored right.
Would I assume you are applying raptor for cosmetics only?
The epoxy, when fully cured is going to be 4 to 5 stronger and way more chemically resistant.

Thanks. Yes raptor for cosmetics. Tintable to match the color of car. Im told raptor will not adhere to bare metal. Maybe you guys can come out with a tintable epoxy? Is that even poasible?

 

[mitch_04]

Like anything, the weakest substrate is best your going to do.
Probably a lousy example, but like putting epoxy over lacquer, may help a little but still a big gamble.

Might have explained poorly.... I meant epoxy first, then raptor, then epoxy. Same answer?

 

[Barry]

Id guess that would work, not sure final coat of epoxy worth much, except for chemical resistance.

 

[Barry]

Thanks. Yes, raptor for cosmetics. Tintable to match the color of car. Im told raptor will not adhere to bare metal. Maybe you guys can come out with a tintable epoxy? Is that even possible?

Yes but! A problem waiting to happen as not all mixing tints are the same chemical make up, so how do I defend the product when someone puts in a major's lower-end brand? I cant as been there before with a tintable sealer that I loved but had to pull it.

 

[Jim C]

Yes but! A problem waiting to happen as not all mixing tints are the same chemical make up, so how do I defend the product when someone puts in a major's lower-end brand? I cant as been there before with a tintable sealer that I loved but had to pull it.

yes and on top of that most mixing tints are basecoats not raw pigments. you dont want to mix basecoat into epoxy. to tint the epoxy you need straight tint/pigments. good luck finding that. i have them here but from a wood finish line. i have never seen raw tints in automotive. they are too strong to mix accurately.

 

[anotheridiot]

Might have explained poorly.... I meant epoxy first, then raptor, then epoxy. Same answer?

Other than following the directions of spraying epoxy over bare metal scratched with 80 grit.

I think there are plenty of threads here about what happened that my epoxy textured that you can learn how to make epoxy into a texture coat, no reducer, find your happy spot in dropping your pressure to about 8-10 pounds, open your needle up enough let the droplet size you want to come out and you can get there. Otherwise, the real way is thru a pressure pot setup, where you basically do the same with your pressure, but push more pressure thru the pot to get more product thru. That will get you the basic texture in the epoxy itself.