Epoxy building flash time

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zachm

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I know I want to use just spi epoxy for my primer now no more polyester primer or 2k I know temp and how much used and gun tip will effect my outcome. If I use epoxy primer say a1.4 tip likes the TDS states to use and did one coat every 24 hours would it be safe to spray let’s use for example 5 coats so you could progressively block up in grits to be ready to seal with epoxy and paint. Thanks for any help.
 
mix up enough for a good heavy coat and let induce overnight in a covered paint cup. shoot with a 1.8-2.0 vaper gun from northern . i double coat . let cure overnight . adding some black epoxy into the first coat helps when you block although epoxy shows low spot very well when blocking. i block each coat .
 
zachm said:
I know I want to use just spi epoxy for my primer now no more polyester primer or 2k I know temp and how much used and gun tip will effect my outcome. If I use epoxy primer say a1.4 tip likes the TDS states to use and did one coat every 24 hours would it be safe to spray let’s use for example 5 coats so you could progressively block up in grits to be ready to seal with epoxy and paint. Thanks for any help.
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That is the beauty of it. The short answer is yes. You can do it that way if you prefer. Since you have a 72 hour pot life letting it induce overnight and building with a coat every 8 hours will put a lot of build on. Shine's is a great suggestion. I wish I had thought of it. Having a different color on the bottom would go a long way in helping you to block it out.

I personally built about 5 coats over a couple days on the roadster when I did some repair on the doors. Blocked, sealed, painted. No filler. No high build primer. Looks perfect 7 years later.

One other interesting thing you can do. When you get close to your 72 hour pot life, mix another batch and combine them. The 72 hour pot life will begin anew and you will not have wasted any paint..... I just love this stuff! ❤️:)

John
 
John Long said:
One other interesting thing you can do. When you get close to your 72 hour pot life, mix another batch and combine them. The 72 hour pot life will begin anew and you will not have wasted any paint..... I just love this stuff! ❤️:)
John
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Did not know that John.:) Thanks for the tip.
 
John Long said:
One other interesting thing you can do. When you get close to your 72 hour pot life, mix another batch and combine them. The 72 hour pot life will begin anew and you will not have wasted any paint..... I just love this stuff! ❤️:)
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I did this a time or two and it really does make a difference. It brings it right back to spraying real nice without adding any reducer.

When you guys let it sit overnight are you covering and how good? I always had mine in a plastic mixing cup, with matching lid, then put it in a zip lock bag to try and seal it better. I usually got to 48 hours but 72 seemed like a long shot some of time, all depended on the temp I suppose.
 
sprint_9 said:
When you guys let it sit overnight are you covering and how good? I always had mine in a plastic mixing cup, with matching lid, then put it in a zip lock bag to try and seal it better. I usually got to 48 hours but 72 seemed like a long shot some of time, all depended on the temp I suppose.
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I use a plastic mixing cup and some Saran wrap or some leftover plastic sheeting then taped around the top of the cup.
 
That seems like a better way than I did it, a smaller area to seal off and less evaporation. Ill have to try that next time.
 
I have even left it in a mixing cup and just set something flat on top of it with a little weight. I don't think it is terribly critical as long as it is well covered and evaporation is prohibited.

John
 
i use the mixing cups with lids . epoxy only is a different animal . i use it on corvettes mostly. on the fleetline i will use slicksand .
 
The only polyester high build primer I have used was 40 years ago. Morton brought out their Eliminator brand and I used it a couple of times. It held up very, very well. I know where both cars are today and while they have both been repainted it was years and years after I painted them.

I hear a lot of good comments on Slick Sand. I probably would have tried the Slick Sand on the fifty3, with as much panel work that had to be done, but I had made a personal commitment to use all SPI products on her. I did that and never found myself wanting to stray to another brand.

The only reservation I have with the Polyester's is, it is really easy to end up with too much material left on the car. It is not only high build on the low spots but on the high spots as well. It is easy to block it flat and quit. Care must be taken to cut it back down as needed and not leave that excess material on the car.

John
 
I was browsing the web the other night and came across a well known guys site. Guy that preps (body work and paint) for some well known builders. He talked about laying 5 coats of poly on something after he skim filled the whole car. He mentioned that he used Glasurit and Spies Hecker poly so it may build different but that just seems crazy excessive to me.
 
shine said:
mix up enough for a good heavy coat and let induce overnight in a covered paint cup. shoot with a 1.8-2.0 vaper gun from northern . i double coat . let cure overnight . adding some black epoxy into the first coat helps when you block although epoxy shows low spot very well when blocking. i block each coat .
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Shine, I seem to get in trouble with cratering with heavy coats of epoxy. Am I missing something?
 
Thanks guys. I get it now Shine, two coats for a heavy coat. I've found that also Don. Just can't be aggressive on the first coat.
 
my first coat of gray epoxy cratered all to hell . learned real quick not to hose it on . featherfill use to do that too when it first came out .
 
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