Epoxy brush or roll on question

sprint_9

sprint_9

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I've got some areas that will remain largely unseen but are starting to rust in spots due to road rash, lower rockers on a truck. I want to freshen them up and extend the life of the truck, all rust ground off, or best I can get. It's going to be very hard to get a spray gun down under the truck and get good coverage. So was wondering if I could brush or roll on a coat of epoxy instead of trying to spray it?
 
Remember that when you do roll it or brush it the thickness of each coat is greater then if you sprayed it. The thicker the better but just wanted to point that out.
 
I can spray a 2-3x thicker coat on than can be applied with a brush or roller, the problem with brushing or rolling is you do not lose any solvent during the application. When a product is sprayed some solvent gets removed into the air before the product hits the panel. When brushed or rolled the extra solvent needs more time to evaporate out before more is applied-it just makes for a slower cure.
 
Bob Hollinshead;n74581 said:
I can spray a 2-3x thicker coat on than can be applied with a brush or roller, the problem with brushing or rolling is you do not lose any solvent during the application. When a product is sprayed some solvent gets removed into the air before the product hits the panel. When brushed or rolled the extra solvent needs more time to evaporate out before more is applied-it just makes for a slower cure.
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True. I find when brushing that a two hour flash is good or the second coat will soften and move the first one. Actually additional coats can be added anytime during the 7 day recoat window.


John
 
I agree that I too can hammer some coats on but when I don't want fisheye issues I don't put coats on very heavy I usually only pull 1/2 trigger on final coats before sanding for paint. But you would be correct that in the areas that i'm not overly concerned about I'm putting it on heavier, full trigger pull for those areas for sure. Mabey I'm not doing something right.

That would lead me to the question, why is it that even though I have the area super clean fisheyes can still appear when shot heavy?
 
John Long;n74585 said:
True. I find when brushing that a two hour flash is good or the second coat will soften and move the first one. Actually additional coats can be added anytime during the 7 day recoat window.


John
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Didn't think of the next coats doing that. I never rolled or brushed it, spray only for me. Given the time for recoat it would seem to be faster to spray for sure. I stand corrected.
 
DATEC;n74589 said:
I agree that I too can hammer some coats on but when I don't want fisheye issues I don't put coats on very heavy I usually only pull 1/2 trigger on final coats before sanding for paint. But you would be correct that in the areas that i'm not overly concerned about I'm putting it on heavier, full trigger pull for those areas for sure. Mabey I'm not doing something right.

That would lead me to the question, why is it that even though I have the area super clean fisheyes can still appear when shot heavy?
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The first coat needs to go on wet but thin and tack up really good before you apply a heavy coat..if you plan to apply a heavy coat. Also- much better to shoot a few lighter double coats than one heavy pass. And then you won't have the fisheye problems.
 
Bob Hollinshead;n74592 said:
Also- much better to shoot a few lighter double coats than one heavy pass. And then you won't have the fisheye problems.
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I have noticed that! It is a little more work, but much less worry over how its going on.
 
Also when I do open the quart I will not be using much for this for the current project what is the best practice to preserve the contents of the can, as long as possible?

thanks
 
When done seal lid tightly and store at room temperature, preferably in a room that wont see many temp swings. If you remember flip the can for part A over every few months to help with settling of the solids.

If possible give a shot of inert gas into the cans before quickly closing the lid.
 
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