Epoxy as sealer recoat window

fmr187

Member
Does reduced epoxy (used as sealer) have the same 7 day recoat window as unreduced epoxy? I have been offer the use of a spray booth for final color but I have to transport the car to the booth. If I seal it and then have to wait a few days before getting it in the booth can I just scruff or do I need to recoat with additional epoxy sealer prior to color.
 
Does reduced epoxy (used as sealer) have the same 7 day recoat window as unreduced epoxy? I have been offer the use of a spray booth for final color but I have to transport the car to the booth. If I seal it and then have to wait a few days before getting it in the booth can I just scruff or do I need to recoat with additional epoxy sealer prior to color.
No, the reducer speeds up the drying time. You would have to scuff or sand it, then reapply sealer before paint. That's the best way for max adhesion and less potential problems.
 
If you mix it 1:1:1 you can then base it in 30 minutes. Keep in mind that it's not going to cover great at 1:1:1. But you seal more for the adhesion benefits than anything else.
 
Barry has recently said that his testing shows that there is can be up to a 48-hour window between spraying reduced epoxy as a sealer and shooting base coat. However, that's using SPI products!! I shot my reduced sealer on a Thursday night and came back on Saturday morning to shoot my color. I haven't noticed any problems related to adhesion (just related to the guy doing the job :p) but the car has not been on the road or in the elements yet, either.
Again, this is only with SPI products all the way through. So, if you are not using SPI base, I would disregard my comment.

Here's the forum thread on Barry's comment: http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/primer-basecoat-wo-dow.6540/#post-69791.

Chris
 
So can I spray SPI Epoxy and then base/ clear the next? I have freshly sandblasted parts that I do not want to sand by hand. {Inner fenders and such.} I'd prefer to shoot it one day and paint it the next.
 
This is the one topic that always made me nervous. I'd love to know that if I mix epoxy 1:1:.5 like I normally do for sealer I can spray base 48 hours after..

I like to denib the sealer and plus having a day job its hard to get everything in at night. Most of the time I just suck it up and stay up, but as im getting older these 4:30am wake ups for the day job are getting tougher and tougher!!

I always make the 24 hour window....but that wiggle room of 48 hours would be awesome if it was true!
 
This is the one topic that always made me nervous. I'd love to know that if I mix epoxy 1:1:.5 like I normally do for sealer I can spray base 48 hours after..

I like to denib the sealer and plus having a day job its hard to get everything in at night. Most of the time I just suck it up and stay up, but as im getting older these 4:30am wake ups for the day job are getting tougher and tougher!!

I always make the 24 hour window....but that wiggle room of 48 hours would be awesome if it was true!

i always shoot my base within maybe a half hour of shooting reduced sealer. if i have to denib i spray my first coat of base, let dry then denib that then finish off the last coat or two of base, sit overnight then clear. doing it this way i dont have the long wait for the epoxy to cure so i can denib it and never have to worry about adhesion.
 
I've done a lot of testing on this over-reducing; it was first thought up by the dealerships to base in 20 or 30 minutes
I was against the idea, but we have never had a failure, and it's been about 15 years.
What we have to keep in mind is we are either doing insurance work or restoration
Work.
For the latter, I tell people daily to add 10 to max 25% reducer and base the next day.

Forgot but 48 hours is fine.
 
i always shoot my base within maybe a half hour of shooting reduced sealer. if i have to denib i spray my first coat of base, let dry then denib that then finish off the last coat or two of base, sit overnight then clear. doing it this way i dont have the long wait for the epoxy to cure so i can denib it and never have to worry about adhesion.
Ya, typically if I have enough time I will shoot 2 coats of base and denib it the next day.. Or if the sealer laid out clean with only a few specs I will just nib the sealer.. it all really depends on the time of night. I'd love to say I have a perfect process but that would be a complete lie!

I just like the insurance that if something comes up(usually kid related) I can turn the lights off and return the next day and finish, the reduced sealer is the only thing that I ever got nervous with.
 
This is the one topic that always made me nervous. I'd love to know that if I mix epoxy 1:1:.5 like I normally do for sealer I can spray base 48 hours after..

I like to denib the sealer and plus having a day job its hard to get everything in at night. Most of the time I just suck it up and stay up, but as im getting older these 4:30am wake ups for the day job are getting tougher and tougher!!

I always make the 24 hour window....but that wiggle room of 48 hours would be awesome if it was true!
I feel the exact same way. I have a car I need to get out by Sunday night was hoping to epoxy seal tonight about midnight and shoot the base at 7:00 am in the cleared by noon, cut and buffed by midnight
 
I feel the exact same way. I have a car I need to get out by Sunday night was hoping to epoxy seal tonight about midnight and shoot the base at 7:00 am in the cleared by noon, cut and buffed by midnight
That's perfect, no worries.
 
Thank You Barry. That 7 hour gap worries me. I never waited that long. I'm not using an SPI basecoat hope thats not an issue with the recoat window.. I'm in Southern California and shooting outside under an enclosed well lit canopy. Early mornings at 70-72 degrees and rolling car out to dry for 80-95 degree sun is perfect here.
I've been using SPI Epoxy and Universal Clearcoat for the last 10 years and it's been great.
 

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Thank You Barry. That 7 hour gap worries me. I never waited that long. I'm not using an SPI basecoat hope thats not an issue with the recoat window.. I'm in Southern California and shooting outside under an enclosed well lit canopy. Early mornings at 70-72 degrees and rolling car out to dry for 80-95 degree sun is perfect here.
I've been using SPI Epoxy and Universal Clearcoat for the last 10 years and it's been great.
Nice work Manuel!
 
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