Epoxy as sealer, base coat cracked?

B

BB6

Hello every one, I have some questions with my car. It's been kicking my ass no matter what I try. Okay basically what happened did all body work and prepped car for paint. Was sitting in 2k primer burned through a few edges so I mixed the epoxy as sealer and instead of spotting it i did the whole panel, mixed 6 ounces epoxy 6 activator 6 reduce which is 1:1:50% which is the same as 1:1:1 right? (Car was wiped with spi solvent w&g remover let it dry for 30 minutes) Anyways, sprayed epoxy sealer and it looked thin coat came out sorta transparent-ish(didn't cover everything not sure if that is how you spray sealer) I let that sit for a hour in 80-85 degrees 25% humidity(medium/normal reducer was used). It looked perfect so I tacked and sprayed 1 coat of nason ful-base 3.5 base coat, mixed 1:1 with no activator. And as it was flashing off it started cracking? Or lifting? Wrinkling? I'm not sure what this is called been searching online and havent found nothing similar. I'm trying to figure out what happened and what caused it, It looked good as I was spraying it and stopped after the 1 coat because of these cracks. I'm uploading pictures when I get on a computer so you can see but I need some advice wasted a lot of materials and time so I think it's time to ask some one more experienced than me. Thanks in advance

EDIT: Looks like attachments aint working, heres a link not sure if this works

https://www.dropbox.com/sc/wot3ev5eyst2rvz/AAAix4HHvZjV-zlZnw1jYtsTa
 
It is cracking where there is 2K primer right?

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The only time I've seen this happen is when something got rushed, a fast curing product was applied over a slow curing product just way too fast.
 
Bob Hollinshead;36360 said:
It is cracking where there is 2K primer right?

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The only time I've seen this happen is when something got rushed, a fast curing product was applied over a slow curing product just way too fast.
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I finished my 2k primer blocking a week before this. So I just went over it with 320 on the da to give it a light scuff. Wiped with w&g remover, sat for a 30 minutes. Mixed epoxy as sealer 1:1:1 (medium/normal reducer, induced 30 minutes) sprayed one wettish coat(I've never used sealer before so it came out sorta transparent-ish but it looked great). Sat for 1 hour, tacked it, then sprayed base coat. It looked good as it was going on til I came back around where I started and seen it cracking. It looks like the basecoat was cracking not the epoxy sealer. It was 80-85 degrees plus I waited proper times I think.
 
Seems you were right talked to Barry and he said sealer wasn't ready, could have been that I applied to heavy, temperature, humidity or all of the above. Thanks for your help plus Barry and the tech line.
 
I don't have any experience with Nason Full Base, but I've used Nason Full-Thane. Isn't all Nason stuff converted enamels?
 
Bob Hollinshead;36373 said:
I don't have any experience with Nason Full Base, but I've used Nason Full-Thane. Isn't all Nason stuff converted enamels?
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I have no clue since Im new to this trade, my car is my first time ever touching auto paint, paint guns, etc. Is that good or bad though, whether its converted or not?
 
I went to double check my can to make sure any ways you think it would be possible to hit this with a da 400 with interface pad and spray base again? Or do I seal it again
 
Have a customer who would get that reaction with shop line black base coat. I told him it was the base coat not the universal clear causing the problem. He switch to standox and hasn't had the issue anymore. I would either switch basecoats or use the optional activator to give it a fighting chance.
 
Have you sanded it and where did the cracks end? clean it with solvent based wax and grease remover and as you wipe it off watch the little that's left evaporate off-if there's any cracks remaining the solvent will show them.
 
I've been able to get the same reaction with Standox base myself. It seems that at my shop, anyway, you have to get right on the sealer, or wait until the next day. Anything in-between is asking for recoat sensitivity, which is not supposed to be able to happen to epoxy, yet I have made it do it before on more than one occasion.
 
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