Epoxy and 2K high build question

JC Daniel

Promoted Users
I have posted before of a local guy who always tells me different things and says what I am doing are wrong, Well yesterday after I had sprayed epoxy over a 1986 Monte Carlo I am doing for a friend he says why are you using epoxy and 2k? I told him I was taught to use epoxy to seal everything then go on with body work and 2k, He said all you need is DTM primer for all your needs. Well here I am again, I want to ask you guys because I don't know a lot about this DTM he is talking about. I'm not going to switch what I been doing just want your guys opinion.
 
Bury the dude in the back yard and be done with him.

Seriously tho, I get it, no pro here and very amateur. Basically I don't know chit on this stuff and nothing wrong on listening to others, but the last 5 years I have been beep bopped around on so many directions to paint my car. I did hook up with a PPG supplier and can talk to these guys, I think thats smart to have a local you can ask questions to BUT,

I like it here, I can understand things on this forum and it really is the guys on how they explain it including Barry ,even tho I'm not where I wanna be on painting, I'm still popping in here and reading your guys post to keep me up in the up.

I plan on Painting my Ford, it is my goal and this is where I plan to pull it all together. My plan is all SPI products down to his base Orange and his Universal Clear.

working 40+ hours a week and only having the weekends for my car, I just at least do something everyday no matter how small or a big leap I can get.
 
It is good to have a relationship with your local jobber but be cautious about the advice you take from them. Their job is to sell product and upsell their own brand. Even the factory dealer reps have been known to put out some pretty iffy advice in selling their own products and they should have the highest level of technical information. Unfortunately, the information they have is from the company that wants to sell the product.

I am not downing the reps. I even sent my resumé to PPG 25 years ago trying to be one. I am saying, keep an open mind. You will get more accurate unbiased information from the guys here than most of the guys behind the counter at your local jobber.

John
 
I got my third order on the way from SPI, Epoxy, 2k primer wax and grease and euro 5000. I don't like to change the way I do things especially when the way I do it works good for me! Believe me I really like SPI products, The local guy that comes around my shop always says "hey you can save a lot of money by using local clear and primer", I always come back and tell him that SPI is the best I have used and he says well it is your money go ahead and throw it away. Oh well he can use his method and materials and I will use mine.
 
I remember back in the very early 1990s the advice to the shops was to put epoxy on bare metal and put the filler over the epoxy. It was difficult to convince people to switch from their lacquer primer that they were used to using. Most shops then were still using lacquer and enamel if memory is correct. Sometimes when people are used to doing something they don't want to change even when there is a better way. I know people like your friend and their isn't any convincing them. They are looking at the quickest, cheapest way to do things. Just keep doing things the better way and don't lose any sleep over it. Your work will stand the test of time.
 
I remember back in the very early 1990s the advice to the shops was to put epoxy on bare metal and put the filler over the epoxy. It was difficult to convince people to switch from their lacquer primer that they were used to using. Most shops then were still using lacquer and enamel if memory is correct. Sometimes when people are used to doing something they don't want to change even when there is a better way. I know people like your friend and their isn't any convincing them. They are looking at the quickest, cheapest way to do things. Just keep doing things the better way and don't lose any sleep over it. Your work will stand the test of time.

Hard to want to change from lacquer when you can mix a gun full in the morning and use it all day, shake and stir once in a while, dump it in a spare can and use it tomorrow etc... Takes some adjustment to get away from primer surfacer even though it's crap compared to 2k primers now. But epoxy first for me now.
 
Hard to want to change from lacquer when you can mix a gun full in the morning and use it all day, shake and stir once in a while, dump it in a spare can and use it tomorrow etc... Takes some adjustment to get away from primer surfacer even though it's crap compared to 2k primers now. But epoxy first for me now.

I hear what you are saying but I shot a '47 Ford convertible around 1979 With S/W acrylic enamal with Polysol catylist. I color sanded it and buffed it a week later and knew then, I would never shoot laquer again.

BTW, That paint job lasted until about 4 years ago at which time my friend Steve redid the car. That paint job was what got me really interested in the science behind auto refinishing. Most of my friends thought I was crazy to try that "new" technology but after several 3-4 year laquer paint jobs, I was convinced there had to be a better way. 35 years sure beats 3-4.

It is a shame so many in this field are not willing to keep up with the new inovations and developements in their own trade. I will guarentee, many painters don't know they can have a 72 hour pot life on Spi epoxy and then can mix up another batch, combine them and let the 72 hour clock start all over.....No need to waste the material.

John
 
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Now that just said a lot! I didnt know that.
btw John, I'm talking about lacquer primer surfacer, not lacquer topcoats. Although I have sprayed a lot of lacquer finishes way back there. Lots of work, doesn't last long.
 
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DTM is direct to metal build primer. I have tried it in the past and yes it does work BUT not to the level epoxy does. If you haven't watched the video where the guy tortures metal coated in SPI epoxy, then I suggest you do.


That epoxy is amazing. Will certainly use it on my project.
 
Hello
I am restoring 1968 Mustang and have been using Eastwood products. I have used fast etch acid rust converter and then used rust encapsulator from spray can.
Eastwood does not make paint color Red Oxide but SPI does. My trouble is SPI specs say not to use on rust treated metal.
Do you have any advice for me?
Thank you
MustangLisa
 
Do not use any epoxy primer over acid etch primer or rust converter. It will not stick. Sorry you got started off on the wrong foot, but the only advice you will get here is to strip to metal and start over.
 
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