Somebody sent this email to me Saturday night, I accidentally deleted it but could go back and copy but it had erased the name.
So hope you see this!!!!!!!
Barry,
I am wanting to paint my first vehicle, and would like some suggestions because I have more time than money, ha!
Background: I have read a few books on painting, several auto body forums, and SPI tech sheets and product details. I was inspired by user 58Mark a first time painter, who painted his Camero with Prospray base and Univ. Clear all with a cheap LVLP Grizzly gun.
I have a Dodge Ram single cab short wheel base in black with a 150K miles that needs a refinish, so I would like to be frugal with my paint supplies, but obviously not so frugal that all the work put into paint is wasted on paint failure in a year or two. I plan to drive the truck into the ground, and hope it will look decent.
I have a 5 cfm compressor and a Sata minijet 4 touchup gun with a 1.0 tip. I plan to buy the LVLP Grizzly with a 1.5 tip like 58Mark did, since it works with my compressor. I also bought some
Kirker
epoxy primer before I read about SPI, so I hope to use it if you think it will be ok. I plan to paint in a garage spray built spray booth.
Questions:
1. Do you think SPI SS black is a good choice for a first time painter?
Barry- Could be done but for a new user, I like base and clear, so it is easier to fix screw ups but it will work.
2. Is it OK to use SPI SS over Kirker epoxy?
Barry-Yes.
3. Would clear coating black epoxy be an option? Good, bad, acceptable?
Barry- Not a good idea.
4. Could I use another brand of reducer with your products, so I don't have to buy a gallon ( no offense intended, just want to make every dollar count)? I can get Sherwin, PPG, Wanda, Prospray, locally. Or could I get away with hardware store lacquer thinner?
Barry- Yes but you will have to spring for a good grade to avoid problems and that quart will cost = or more then my gallon.
5. Do you know of a cheap way to buff out a finish? My plan is to wet sand through 2000 or higher and then buy a cheap Harbor Freight Rotary buffer, a 3M or Lake Country pad, Meguiars 105 and 205. Could I save money here, for example, wet sand through 3000 or 4000, then use Turtle Wax polish compound with a cheap orbital buffer with a small but good quality foam pad?
Barry- let me stay away from this for now until you are ready but no the Turtle wax deal will be a waste of money and not work.
6. Also, I have a metal 8ft trailer, I am planning on practicing spraying the Kirker epoxy on the trailer, could I then just cover with some SPI matte clear? Would that be a durable finish? UV resistant? I think only a quart is needed.
Barry- NO, look for about a 3-6 month life.
7. Could I get away with using my Sata Minijet 4, 1.0 tip, it makes about a 4.5 inch fan? If I could get good results and keep a wet edge painting panel by panel, I would rather not buy a cheap Grizzly gun.
Barry- No big areas would be a cluster with a mini-jet, even for a professional.
Sorry for the length of email, but anything you wish to write will be appreciated,
So hope you see this!!!!!!!
Barry,
I am wanting to paint my first vehicle, and would like some suggestions because I have more time than money, ha!
Background: I have read a few books on painting, several auto body forums, and SPI tech sheets and product details. I was inspired by user 58Mark a first time painter, who painted his Camero with Prospray base and Univ. Clear all with a cheap LVLP Grizzly gun.
I have a Dodge Ram single cab short wheel base in black with a 150K miles that needs a refinish, so I would like to be frugal with my paint supplies, but obviously not so frugal that all the work put into paint is wasted on paint failure in a year or two. I plan to drive the truck into the ground, and hope it will look decent.
I have a 5 cfm compressor and a Sata minijet 4 touchup gun with a 1.0 tip. I plan to buy the LVLP Grizzly with a 1.5 tip like 58Mark did, since it works with my compressor. I also bought some
Kirker
epoxy primer before I read about SPI, so I hope to use it if you think it will be ok. I plan to paint in a garage spray built spray booth.
Questions:
1. Do you think SPI SS black is a good choice for a first time painter?
Barry- Could be done but for a new user, I like base and clear, so it is easier to fix screw ups but it will work.
2. Is it OK to use SPI SS over Kirker epoxy?
Barry-Yes.
3. Would clear coating black epoxy be an option? Good, bad, acceptable?
Barry- Not a good idea.
4. Could I use another brand of reducer with your products, so I don't have to buy a gallon ( no offense intended, just want to make every dollar count)? I can get Sherwin, PPG, Wanda, Prospray, locally. Or could I get away with hardware store lacquer thinner?
Barry- Yes but you will have to spring for a good grade to avoid problems and that quart will cost = or more then my gallon.
5. Do you know of a cheap way to buff out a finish? My plan is to wet sand through 2000 or higher and then buy a cheap Harbor Freight Rotary buffer, a 3M or Lake Country pad, Meguiars 105 and 205. Could I save money here, for example, wet sand through 3000 or 4000, then use Turtle Wax polish compound with a cheap orbital buffer with a small but good quality foam pad?
Barry- let me stay away from this for now until you are ready but no the Turtle wax deal will be a waste of money and not work.
6. Also, I have a metal 8ft trailer, I am planning on practicing spraying the Kirker epoxy on the trailer, could I then just cover with some SPI matte clear? Would that be a durable finish? UV resistant? I think only a quart is needed.
Barry- NO, look for about a 3-6 month life.
7. Could I get away with using my Sata Minijet 4, 1.0 tip, it makes about a 4.5 inch fan? If I could get good results and keep a wet edge painting panel by panel, I would rather not buy a cheap Grizzly gun.
Barry- No big areas would be a cluster with a mini-jet, even for a professional.
Sorry for the length of email, but anything you wish to write will be appreciated,