Durability SPI SS vs Base clear with universal

zachm

Promoted Users
I have a Black paint job coming up curious to hear of the differences of SPI black single stage vs spi black base coat which would be activated and have universal clear over
it both would be 5 coats on the clear or single stage then cut and buffed. both over spi epoxy primer substrate and then sealed with epoxy before paint. i might just be overthinking this it will be a project im selling what would most people like the SS or Base clear. would like to hear of any experiences with this with chipping etc. ive used the universal on alot of stuff no complaints its just a great product just havent tried the single stage yet.
 
well if your doing ss then dont put clear over it. ss will always be more durable but if you put clear over it then you will lose the look of a ss job. a bc/cc job if done right will be plenty durable for a daily driven car. that is what is on just about every car on the highway these days. you do ss for the look of a ss or if what your painting is some off road vehicle or something that is just going to take a huge beating from rocks and road debris.
 
IMO, single stage is more durable than any base/clear system. The problem will always be the base as a weak link. I have many BC/CC jobs that are 10-20 years old that still look good, but you never see single stage blowing off in sheets like BC/CC jobs. Both can last 20+ years with proper care and lots of time out of the sun, when done properly. Universal may be slightly more flexible, I'm not sure, but chips usually occur between base and substrate, so I don't know if the flexibility is as important as the adhesion of the single stage.
 
We need a popcorn icon cause I ain't saying shit about this anymore . I'm old and ignorant I've been told .
 
The SS is unbelievably stronger than base/clear.
I used SS (urethane) on my boat and it's amazing the stuff
I've rubbed up against while fishing and it stays on.
Very tough stuff.
And that's for urethane, other SS paints like lacquer and enamels are a different story.
 
There is no wrong opinion on this subject.
Friday, while driving back from Florida, a guy called all baffled as he asked a company that relabels the difference between base an ss. People that private label don't have a clue about formulas or why solids on MSDS say different things.
So here the deal, like I told him here is how im going to make my ss, and you guys are now loaded with the knowledge to pick the one you want.
My ss is universal clear with the OH changed to make it a 4.1 mix use to be 1.1 years ago, and people complained about buying a 2-gallon kit.

So let's make a 300-gallon batch, I print a formula for the clear in the 200 to the 220-gallon range.
Ok, clear is made, so now I will add a blend of dispersants of 12 to 20lbs depending on color.
Next, add a pigment load of 22 to 27% by weight.
Mix for 45 to 60 mins, and you have a single stage.
So simple, now you can decide what one works best for you.
 
There is no wrong opinion on this subject.
Friday, while driving back from Florida, a guy called all baffled as he asked a company that relabels the difference between base an ss. People that private label don't have a clue about formulas or why solids on MSDS say different things.
So here the deal, like I told him here is how im going to make my ss, and you guys are now loaded with the knowledge to pick the one you want.
My ss is universal clear with the OH changed to make it a 4.1 mix use to be 1.1 years ago, and people complained about buying a 2-gallon kit.

So let's make a 300-gallon batch, I print a formula for the clear in the 200 to the 220-gallon range.
Ok, clear is made, so now I will add a blend of dispersants of 12 to 20lbs depending on color.
Next, add a pigment load of 22 to 27% by weight.
Mix for 45 to 60 mins, and you have a single stage.
So simple, now you can decide what one works best for you.
Thanks Barry now I know I will be going single stage thanks for the help
 
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